Got the tank to the folks who will make the new one. Their assessment is the leaks ( many smal pin holes in flat section up front) are a result of the tank being in contact with water over the years. If you look at the tanks frame, water can collect at the front - nearest engine - and has no place to go. I am guessing most of the water must be coming from the 4" inspection plate. The estimates for a new tank ranged from $700 to 800. The orginal tank manufacture quoted $750 plus shipping from Florida and wanted 4 weeks. I selected a local shop for $700 and I do the pick up and delievery and it will be finished in one week.

Two questions: What did you do to the frame to help pervent future problems? Did anyone do anything about getting better drainage at the front end? I also think the orginal inspection plate needs to be replaced. Has anyone done that and what product did you use.

Inspection of the engine bed and pan revealed no stress marks or any other sign that it did not hold up. In fact after the first cleaning it looked like new. The mechanic is recommending we do nothing to the bed at this time - we still don't have the new 64A so we are holding judgeement until it arrives. The only problem appears to be the access to the front two engine mount bolts. Anyone deal with that?

Cada Grove
Jubilee100

Hi Cada-

Here is a site with some advice on installing tanks

http://www.marinesurvey.com/yacht/fueltank.htm

We glassed over the whole tank with two layers of cloth and West systems epoxy.That has prevented water from getting to the tank.Do your tank corrode from the inside, or outside? Our tank corroded from the inside.

Quent,

Our tank corroded from the outside. They looked inside with a light and mirrow and it looked like new...Our problem was the water laying on the wood frame. I am now thinking of some primer and paint plus some plastic spacers for air movement. There is very little extra room for glassing in boat. In fact the yard really made a point about keeping the tank the same size.

Cada

Cada,

I assume that your tank quote is for an exact replacement; the same thickness etc.I got a quote for a thicker tank and a lot more money.Is your replacement built to the same measurements as Phil's drawing? Do you have contact information for the original manufacturer? I might order from them rather than take a chance on a local welder.

Beware of the engine bed.Mine looked fine when I pulled the engine too. The problem with mine is that the top flange of the pan where the mounts sit sag under the weight of the engine.When you pull the engine, the pan relaxes and returns to its original shape. The sag twists the engine mounts outward.I didn't recognize the problem until after I reinstalled my engine.No two boats are the same, so your pan might be better or worse than mine.As a minimum, it might be a good idea to epoxy wood shims under the flange so that sag is minimized.I've considered doing just that, but I think the Yanmar needs to sit a 3/4" lower in the pan, so the flange might need to be cut off anyway.

As for the inspection plate, I've rebedded mine a few times over the years to keep it from leaking.I never liked the peep hole for reading the fuel level.While you have the tank out, you might consider replacing it with a proper fuel sender and gauge.The mounting pattern might be different for a sender, so I suggest resolving this ASAP.If replaced, I suppose you could glass over the hole and get rid of the problem entirely, but you might find the access plate convenient some day if you ever need to clean the inside of the tank.For cleaning, you remove the sender and snake a hose down that side of the tank for cleaning.I'd suggest painting the bottom of the glass plate and rebedding it.

Rich Carter

Thanks Quent, good information.I'm not sure I'd recommend gluing the thing into place as the link suggests.I assume that it is only a matter of another 25 years or so when the tank will need replacement once again.I don't know how you'd replace it if it is 5200'd in place!

Did you use the plastic strip method as suggested?

Rich Carter

Rich,

My tank had the orginal makers name on the tank. I will not be able to get to that before Wednesday of next week. My shop is a small operation with a very low overhead - they are in their father's old farm building - but do great work supporting our local fishing fleet and building fishing boat towers. Shop has about 10 welders now working and they appear to be vary talented - most ex CG'r and navy types. Their quote is for an exact copy with slightly heavier metal. They are using my orginal as the pattern. They showed me the guidelines for the material based on type of fuel and number of gallons.

The final decision on the bed will not occur until the mechanic is back - CG Reserve and he is off for a training class. He will be inspecting the mount on Wednesday after I finish the final cleaning.

Will keep you up to date. If you want the orginal makers name I can pull off the tank later next week.

We are off to open day for college fottball in PA....

The orginal tank was well within CG spec's.

Cada

I might ask them to make a second tank for me.I'll have to remove and verify the measurements of my tank before I commit though.Do you have any idea what shipping something like this would cost to New Hampsire?

Rich Carter

Quent

I've never liked the strap method of holding the tank down.I hope I never roll-over, but I don't trust the straps to hold the tank.I'm planning to bolt cross braces across the top of the tank.

If the inside of the tank is otherwise in good shape, I see no reason that an epoxy covering such as what you did wouldn't work.As I add up all the odds and ends related to my repower, I'm getting discuraged with the cost.After I have the tank out for inspection, I'm going to mull over my options.I might do something similar to what you've done.Can you please write something up about what you did?How did you clean the surface?What kind of paint and epoxy did you use?How long did it take you?etc???

Rich Carter

Rich-

My read of the ABYC, and by extension, the USCG standards for fuel tanks is that fiberglass/epoxy repair is acceptable, provided that it is an aluminum, not steel or iron tank, and that the adhesive sticks to the tankas well or better that it does to the fiberglass.

I did this because I couldn't find a welder who would repair a used fuel tank, but I don't see why you couldn't just cut out the damaged bottom, and weld a new one on.Guys I talked to were worried about fuel fumes, but I was able to get it pretty clean.Maybe Cada could discuss this with his welder.

Quent

Quent,

Thanks for the info.Do you think this is a weekend job or are we talking several days?

How heavy is the tank?I'm trying to figure out what kind of a job I have ahead of me.Layering on fiberglass has to make it even heavier.

Since you've apparently read the ABYC and USCG standards, what do they say about alternators?I'm planning to repower, and I hoped to use my old alternator on the new engine.Someone told me that alternators must be marine grade, even for diesel engines.The old alternator on my W-60 was not a marine alternator so when I replaced it, I just purchased an inexpensive industrial alternator.Marine alternators run more than twice the cost of a truck alternator.

Rich Carter

Don't know specifics on ABYC and alternators.I think that marine standard probably means spark proof, which would apply only to gas engines.You might ask Balmar, or some otherbuilder of alternators.Some have additional corroison protection, which seems to me to be hype rather than "marine".Maybe look on Dashew's website or book?

Quent

Hi to All,

Several of you asked about the place I was having my tank built. Short update...

The tank is being made by "Standard Welding and Marine", a small 15 person shop specializing in aluminum fabrication.Their specialty is T-Tops, but cover most all boating needs.They do some of the best welding I have seen - their T Tops are superior!I asked about a discount on more than one tank - not sure there would be one.They however do most work within a week.They indicated if others are interested they would keep my old tank on hand as a model for others vs cutting up for scrap.They believe the tank could be shipped UPS.

Their contact information:

Call and ask for "Chase" (owner)at 757.824-0293, email standardwelding@esva.net

I have a limited number of their brochures, if anyone wants one please let me have your mailing address.It shows mostly the fancy stuff, but their tanks look just as good.

I will be picking mine up on Monday after pressure testing, will let you know how it looks.

I was also asked about the old tank labeling.Here it is:

Made by Florida Marine Tanks.Model FMT 80 PS. Lot 15, guage 125.Built 1979
Their phone number is 305.620.9030

They quoted $750.00 4 weeks plus shipping.

Cada Grove
Jubilee100

I pulled my fuel tank last weekend.Close inspection shows a small pinhole in the bottom of the tank; no-doubt where it was in contact with a broze staple.The rest of the tank shows aging, but still looks OK.The inside is covered with what looks like coffee grounds.This is probably residue left over from algae that at one time contaminated the tank.

Pulling the tank took about 5 hours.I tore the front of the cradle off, then disconnected the hoses and fittings. I tried to slide the tank forward, but it wouldn't clear the mizzen support beam that runs under the cockpit.I had to tear the bottom off the cradle to gain enough room to slide the tank off.The beam was too low by the height of the pipe fittings.The cradle bottom is a single board about 1 inch thick, 12 inches deep, and the width of the cradle.The whole thing is held together with bronze slotted screws, none of which came out without a crowbar.The hatch was just wide enough to get the tank out.I'll replace the tank.It is currently at a local sheetmetal shop for an estimate.

I'll have the new one fabricated slightly lower so that I can slide it back in.I'll lose a gallon or two in capacity.

Rich Carter