Windlass Installation
Simpson-Lawrence Pacific 1500 windlass
Meridian, Hull No. 139
As Meridian
and her crew mature, labor saving devices, especially those that save
the lower back, reach a high position on the list of outfitting priorities.
The electric anchor windlass is an addition to the equipment list that,
like the autopilot and the spray dodger, has proven its worth many times
over since it was installed several years ago.
Design and Equipment Selection Considerations
I wanted to install a windlass that would
be able to haul up Meridian’s 44-pound Delta anchor and all of her chain
rode; that would not dominate the foredeck, that would allow full access
to the anchor locker, and that would be straightforward to operate.
It needed a vertical capstan in addition to the chain wheel, so that
it could be used it to hoist a man to the masthead, and to kedge with
a rope rode if required. Owing to the design of the factory anchor
roller and the low mounting height of the jib furling drum, it is necessary
to lift the anchor over the roller by hand, therefore cockpit control
of the windlass was not a priority, although it would be easy to retrofit.
The height of the bulwark forward meant that the centerline of the chain
wheel pockets would have to be about six inches above the deck to achieve
a fair lead for the chain. Chain size and length was chosen to get
a reasonable compromise between strength and total weight…200 feet of
5/16” G-4 (high-test) chain, weighing 218 pounds, was selected.
A Simpson-Lawrence Pacific 1500
windlass was selected for these reasons:
-
Its specification indicated that it would get the
job done.
-
It was relatively light in weight compared to its
pulling power.
-
It uses a planetary gear drive instead of the more
common right-angle gear drive, meaning that it does not have to be
dismantled to install it or to remove it. The planetary gear system
doesn’t impose an overhung load on the motor shaft…an advantage in
terms of motor bearing life. The axially mounted motor also takes
up less space in the anchor locker.
-
The aesthetics of its design were appealing, and
it would fit the space available.
-
It can be serviced entirely from above.
Installation
Installation was straightforward, with two exceptions. First, the requirement
for chain wheel height above deck called for a 4” high spacer between
the deck and the windlass base. A solid block of teak this thickness
seemed not to be available, not to mention the prospective difficulty
of cutting two holes into it, one 5 ½” in diameter for the motor and
one 2” in diameter for the chain pipe. Both these obstacles were addressed
by laminating the block from 1 7/8” x 4” teak lumber and band sawing
the holes before the pieces were glued together with epoxy (see
the diagram on page 3). This solution also vastly reduced the cutting
waste ($$).
The second problem did not show up until
after I installed the windlass. I had presumed that the chain would
slide down the hull into the chain locker of its own weight and pile
up in the bottom of the space available. WRONG! It was amazing how
the chain stacked up against the hull, backing itself into the chain
pipe and stopping up everything.
The
solution to this was rerouting the chain pipe to the approximate center
of the chain locker using a chain pipe extension made of 2” heavy duty
PVC electrical conduit. Stainless steel could have been used for this
but the PVC was much less expensive, readily available, and easy to
modify as required in the field. Seven years later it is still working
fine. The diagrams and photos illustrate the main points of this project.
It should be noted that Simpson-Lawrence
no longer offers the Pacific windlass in the size installed on Meridian, although it is available in much larger sizes. The
Lewmar “Sprint” series seem to offer the nearest current equivalent.
Though the design has proven to be quite workable, it would be better
if the anchor were a bit farther away from the chain wheel. Owners
who have the factory-installed tubular “bowsprit” have the advantage
here.
The only problem I have had with the windlass itself is keeping its
motor housing from being attacked by rust. I finally removed and cleaned
it, and coated it with “POR-15”, a tough, rust resistant coating with
which I have had good experience. So far, so good…after seven years
of service, the windlass is still saving my back.
Spacer Block
Cutting layout, edge of 1 7/8” thick teak plank
