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DunphyjeParticipant
Eric,
I should also ask if the dodger is included and do you have a connecting piece between the two…
JohnJohn
S/V MelaDunphyjeParticipantEric,
We may be interested..
What is the color or the Bimini?
JohnJohn
S/V MelaDunphyjeParticipantIts always sad when we loose a member of our family..
Will stop a moment and lift a glass in the pub tonight..John
S/V MelaDunphyjeParticipantJeff,
Try this link..
https://www.westerbeke.com/Category/FRESHWATERCOOLINGSYSTEM-FRONT/5399ADA2DAF73A26740BFEAD
Hope it helps..
JohnJohn
S/V MelaDunphyjeParticipantMy baffle was from port to starboard…
I cut two holes in the port side to find out..John
S/V MelaDunphyjeParticipantOk.. still need some help..
Does anyone know which way the diesel tank baffle in the fuel tank is orientated?
I now plan to open an inspection hole on the port side of the tank (because I have access to that tank from that side) and see if I can inspect/identify, clean and maybe repair the tank from the inside. I really don’t want to pull the engine..
So that makes it critical to know how the baffle is installed as I must have access to both sides of the baffle from the port side for my plan to work..
You guys are the only ones who would know this..
Thanks for any help ..
John
SV MelaJohn
S/V MelaDunphyjeParticipantHere is the second picture..
JohnJohn
S/V MelaAttachments:
1 user thanked author for this post.
DunphyjeParticipantMike,
See attached… one pic is of the fuel gauge face.
And the other is the top of the tank..
As you can see there is about 6 to 9 inches of space there between the top of the tank and bottom of the cockpit floor.. You can also see the light coming thru the cockpit floor in the rear left of the pic and the gauge directly below..
It might be easier just to remove the site glass and see if you can polish it or have another one cut.. It is held in by screws..
Hope this helps..
John
Mela..John
S/V MelaAttachments:
1 user thanked author for this post.
DunphyjeParticipantIt is a fuel gauge window..
You should see thru it to the top of your fuel tank where they have install a full/half/quarter mechanical fuel gauge mounted in the top of the tank…
I recently removed mine to clean it and discovered that water had seeped into the core of the fiberglass floor around it…I believe it is made of glass mounted in brass..
I have temporarily put a piece of plastic over the hole until the core thoroughly dries before I can fix it.. the Glass cleaned up and is now fairly clear..
Hope that helps…John
S/V Mela1 user thanked author for this post.
DunphyjeParticipantThanks for the reply.. I’ll try and google for that article..
I thought I saw the same thing on this site but could not find it..
I really don’t want to have to pull the engine and tank and all the hassle that entails..
But will do if I have to.. just looking for other approaches..
I also looked at pulling the tank out thru the cock pit locker and think it could be done with a little bit of saws all and then fiberglass work..
JohnJohn
S/V MelaDunphyjeParticipantBryan,
Thanks for that reply.. I learned something..
I would not have thought of using the grinder either.
But you are right… just get on with it to start..
John
MelaJohn
S/V MelaDunphyjeParticipantBryan,
How was the nut finally removed?
Hoping to learn something from this..
John
MelaJohn
S/V MelaDunphyjeParticipantBen,
See attached pdf for DOT propane tank info..
It contains the markings and the certification and re-certification info..
John
C/V MelaJohn
S/V MelaAttachments:
DunphyjeParticipantDavid,
You mentioned mold and mildew…
You are right.. two separate issues, although they are often connected to each other..
Condensation alone just makes things wet.. like the outside of a cool glass on a summers day..
Mold needs moisture to survive and spread. So anywhere you have moisture (inside a leaking or humid boat or home shower) that can not evaporate you will get mold and mildew.
The best way to avoid this is to have both airflow and enough insulation to keep the warm humid side from the cold outside and prohibit condensation forming…
Many production boats were never insulated enough to stop the humidity..UMA (the YouTube sailing couple) understood this issue well and insulated their boat in an easy, cost friendly and efficient way..
Here is a link to that video if any one is interested…
I plan to do the same.. except I think I will add outdoor carpet as a soft and sound absorbent finish..
John
John
S/V MelaDunphyjeParticipantDavid,
I am a bit confused about applying a sealant to the inside of the hull..
It seems to me that a sealant is used to keep water and moisture from penetrating or leaking thru the hull or in a basement wall..
That is very different from using insulation to block the transmission of heat or cold thru the hull to keep the boat cool in summer or warm in winter..
If the issue is condensation then the insulation needs to be thicker or more efficient thereby keeping the dew point out of the interior of the boat..
Did I misunderstand the use of the sealant?
John
S/V MelaJohn
S/V Mela -
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