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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 147 total)
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  • in reply to: The Great Propeller Mystery #225208

    RLeeds
    Participant

    Ron-
    I have been using a Michigan Wheel Sailor prop, 18×13 for quite a while now with good success! I also have the original W-58. I cruise at 6 knots at 2250 RPM. Good control docking.

    Rodd

  • in reply to: Westerbeke Oil Filter "equivalents" #224539

    RLeeds
    Participant

    W58 engine – I have been using Fram PH8A oil filters for years with absolutely no problems whatsoever. Buy them in any auto parts store or Walmart for under $5.

  • in reply to: For Sale: 424 Ketch Sails – Black Friday $400 for all 8! #224533

    RLeeds
    Participant

    I have an interest in the Genoa. Would take the whole package if you can’t split it up.
    Thanks.

    Rodd Leeds
    New York

  • in reply to: Nexus insturments #224454

    RLeeds
    Participant

    hey Quent- I still have Nexus and am looking for any instrument covers that are in good shape. Mine are pretty shot. Do you have any?

    Thanks.

    Rodd

  • in reply to: Parting out Westerbeke W58 #223923

    RLeeds
    Participant

    Evan-
    How about the instrument panel and included wiring? Could use a few gauges, and definitely the wiring harness– both ends, in fact.

    what is the status of your RV20? (original, or rebuilt ?)

    Also, where are you located? I am on Long Island, NY
    Thanks.

    Rodd
    Windseeker, #214

  • in reply to: Removing Borg Warner Tranny #193735

    RLeeds
    Participant

    Short wrench (11/16″) worked like a charm–easy, when you know how!!

    Thanks all.

    Rodd

  • in reply to: Removing throttle/forward reverse linkage #193714

    RLeeds
    Participant

    Dan-
    yes there is a clip about midway down the pedestal that holds both cables. you know where it is because a screw shows where the clip is fastened to the pedestal.then follow these instructions:

    REMOVE COMPASS
    Before removing the compass bolts, run a piece of electrical tape vertically from the compass across the engine control housing, top plate, and onto the pedestal. Slit the tape at each joint. This will help you realign the compass with the other parts when you reassemble this upper part of the pedestal. Remove the four round head 1/4-20 x 3-1/2 machine screws that serve as compass bolts.
    REMOVE THE BRASS CLEVIS PINS FROM THE CONTROL LEVERS IN THE ENGINE CONTROL HOUSING
    The clevises are screwed to the end of the engine control cables. Note which holes in the control levers the clevis pins came from. This helps when reassembling this unit.
    REMOVE ENGINE CONTROL HOUSING
    REMOVE THE CABLE HOLDER NUT OR ROUND HEAD MACHINE SCREW
    located on the aft side of the pedestal tube approximately 7″ below the wheel shaft. This will release the Cable Holder (A-969 or A-705) that holds the two engine control cables. These cables remain attached to the cable holder inside the pedestal tube.
    BRING BOTH CONTROL CABLES TO THE SAME SIDE OF WHEEL SHAFT.
    From the top of the pedestal, push down both of the engine control cables just far enough so you can bring the throttle control cable (right hand side) under the wheel shaft and over to the left aft side of the pedestal along with the clutch cable.
    PULL BOTH CONTROL CABLES UP.
    With both control cables now on the same side of the steering wheel shaft, pull the cables up until you can reach the cable holder.
    Due to the limited amount of space in the pedestal tube the cable holder sometimes gets jammed up with the steering chain and cables. One solution to this problem is to turn the steering wheel shaft all the way to port, thus putting most of the steering chain over on the left side with the two engine control cables and cable holder. Then, while pulling up on the engine control cables, turn the steering wheel shaft back to starboard. The upward movement of the chain can help bring the cable holder and control cables up to a level where they can be reached.
    Working space can be gained in the upper section of the pedestal by moving the chain forward of the chain sprocket. To do this, first tighten the brake, then ease the tension of the chain and steering cables by backing off the nuts on the takeup eyes located on your radial drive wheel or quadrant which is attached to the rudderpost. With slack in the steering cables, lift the steering chain and move it forward of the hub sprocket located on the steering wheel shaft.
    REMOVE THE BROKEN ENGINE CONTROL CABLE
    Now that you can reach the cable holder, remove the broken engine control cable. When removing the bad engine control cable, make sure you attach a “messenger” line, or the new replacement cable, to the end of the original cable. You will use the “messenger” line to run the new replacement cable through the same route as the original engine control cable.
    RUN THE NEW ENGINE CONTROL CABLE
    Using the “messenger” line, pull the new engine control cable into place.

    Good luck- I’ve only done it once, and that was a tough one!

    Rodd

  • in reply to: Removing Borg Warner Tranny #185339

    RLeeds
    Participant

    Thanks guys for the quick responses! I will try using a short wrench next time.

    Rodd
    Windseeker, #214

  • in reply to: Rudder "bearing" -plastic #93694

    RLeeds
    Participant

    Thanks John-

    Rich- I had a leak from the rudder packing (at least I hope it was from the packing and not from the strut thru-bolts). So I am going to repack this year. As for the “bearing”, I’ll probably just go with John’s suggestion of a hose clamp to keep it in place-

    Rodd

  • in reply to: Parting Out W58 #87171

    RLeeds
    Participant

    Dan-

    Now I see it is you who has the parts, not Bob Fine!
    Interested in :

    V-Drive and jack shaft
    Engine heat xchanger
    Exhaust elbows (4)
    Exhaust manifold
    Neutral safety switch from Tranny
    Engine wire harness
    Oil temp sender

    Thanks!

    Rodd
    Windseeker
    NY

  • in reply to: Nobeltec VNS 6.5 users? #80956

    RLeeds
    Participant

    no luck with them- I guess I will just have to run 6.5 and no upgrade. Considering that I really don’t use the laptop much anymore it’s not that big of a deal.

    Thanks for idea.

    Rodd

  • in reply to: Nobeltec VNS 6.5 users? #80933

    RLeeds
    Participant

    Pat-

    good idea – i will try them on Monday.

    Rodd

  • in reply to: Horn #80848

    RLeeds
    Participant

    Rich-
    Yes, that’s the world of boating! One thing leads to the next, etc etc.,
    and always to more money spent!
    Good luck with the horns.

    Rodd


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  • in reply to: Horn #80846

    RLeeds
    Participant

    I use a dual horn, by Ongaro. Not too great either. I also have a speaker
    horn mounted aloft that amplifies fog signals, etc automatically from my
    VHF. That is a great feature in the fog! Can also hit xmit button to get a
    warning yelp if you need it. Highly recommended.

    For a stand alone horn with a button I think you would need to go to an air
    horn. Those work great and are very loud.

    Rodd


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  • in reply to: W-58 Fresh water cooling drain location #80587

    RLeeds
    Participant

    Gents-

    The W58 coolant drain plug is located on the starboard side of the engine
    (port side of boat). It is a brass plug about an inch up from the oil pan,
    and in the middle of the block. I just drained coolant from there this past
    fall to completely remove all the old standard antifreeze and replaced with
    extended life coolant.

    Good luck!

    Rodd
    Windseeker, #214


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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 147 total)