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SeawaterParticipant
Before getting into details, here is it located?
I might be interested in the frame should John pass
June 29, 2019 at 6:39 am in reply to: attaching a tiller mount to rudder shaft for autopilot #225107SeawaterParticipantYes. I did and it working well for over a decade. You should make it easy to remove so you can still use your emergency tiller
SeawaterParticipantYes, more than 15 years ago, and it still looks great. I think it was plasticote, but I’m not sure. Any paint designed for vinyl.
I had to do the ceiling in the head in place, which involved a lot of masking and a positive pressure respirator. Also I think there was one piece above the nav station.
In addition I did the vinyl in the head with a light coat of white. The texture and a little hint of the former color came through and it looks fantastic
SeawaterParticipantI need a fresh water pump. My email address is walterpiescik{at}gmail.com
Maybe a heat exchanger too. Are you replacing your transmission?
SeawaterParticipantHi Alan!
I hope you and Pearson are well.
I moved my batteries under the steering quadrant. There is room for 6 golf cart batteries down there, and it is space it is useless for pretty much anything else.
The only downside is checking the water level in the batteries takes a few minutes. I do it twice a season so moving a few things out of the lazaret is not such a big deal.
You have to build a marine plywood box for them and then bolt it to the two stringers. If you want I’ll take some pictures for you.
SeawaterParticipantI lined the v berth with Ash battens. I glassed vertical strips of .t inch plywood to accept the screws. Together with the battens, they eliminate flex. If I had it to do over again I would use a plywood that was made from hardwood or hardwood strips steam-bent into position. The softwood of the plywood is not ideal for giving the relatively short screws good holding. Along with the 5 layers of glass mat, it seems to have been enough, but hard wood would have been better.
It has lasted several thousand see miles as is, some of it quite rough.
SeawaterParticipantMadness has the oil low pressure alarm sharing the same circuitry as the overheat alarm. Thus was done by Pearson, as it is shown that way in the owners manual. Perhaps your oil is getting thin after 45 minutes of operation?
Also, if you are having heat issues, bypass the V drive. Did it a decade ago, engine runs cooler in extreme circumstances, V drive never gets over 140. I think the water resistance in the V drive use v to hobble the cooling system when running very hard, but not now. But I never really had a significant issue, it just crept up 15 or 20 degrees.
Good luck.
SeawaterParticipantHi Alan!
You have used the Profurl on Madness, though you may not remember much about it.
Its been great. No significant issues in the 16 or so years since I bought the boat. It has seen some hard use in those years as you know. The only issues have been that a set screw that holds the extruded forestay cover/spindle/sail wrap thingy backed out making it impossible to lower the swivel, so I had to go aloft one year at fall layup. One was missing, bought a new (proprietary) set screw, put blue lock tight on all of them and all is well for about a decade now.
it is simple, and the basket is open allowing for easy correction of any override.
It has required NO maintenance. Never had it apart, never lubed the bearings, just fresh water rinses. Period. My rigging guy says that is all it needs.
I wish all my gear was as reliable.
W
SeawaterParticipantWow, that is good info, I live right near R&W. How much did it set you back?
SeawaterParticipant10 years and well over 1000 NMI with no cooling, including a year in the tropics. I put a temp alarm on it at 210 degrees F, and it has never reached that temp. Measuring by hand, my guess is that the peak temp is about 140 F. The air temp that day felt like 140. Motor oil handles much higher temps. My old 911 used to hit 310 F oil temps on hot days, it was running great when I sold it with 200k mi on it
Remember, they put that same unit on powerboats making 4 to 5x the power. With 250 hp going through them, they prob need cooling.
SeawaterParticipantOh, I forgot, thorneycroft marine also marinized that engine, if you search ebay and the like, you may want to search for Thorneycroft parts as well.
SeawaterParticipantThe engine is a BMC 2520 typical of the Classic British FX4 taxicab. ASAP has been a good source for me. Another is KIP
SeawaterParticipantFor reference: 10 years and thousands of miles (to and from Caribbean and Maine 3x from new england, motoring and motorsailing) now since eliminating water cooling on my rv-20. No issues, never gets over 180 farenheit. I have a temp alert at 210, it is easy to install. The case is already drilled and tapped. I don’t baby it. I have motored at 8 knots for an hour (takes a clean bottom and near full power on the old W60). I usually motor at 6.5
Walter
Madness – Hull #1SeawaterParticipantStill have it? may be interested in parts. Also, do you have a trans?
SeawaterParticipantTwo more things.
Let me know how you make out, I may want to buy a spare; and I have new and used glow plugs, should you need them. They come and go WRT availability.
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