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David,
Our water heater was installed in the port laz. I took it out to clean and fix the jumbled hoses and once out it was apparent the heater was working on borrowed time. We relocated it under the qauterberth essentially right next to the engine. When we repowered with the Yanmar it had the fittings ready to go. I installed a quick system and it lays on its side. The 8 gallon unit fits like a glove.Dunb question maybe but do you have a coolant overflow tank higher than the water heater so all the air can be burped out of the system. Forget Knot had a similar setup to yours and it worked fine for us. I now have the new water heater lower than the new engine (long story) and we have no issues.
Apparently, he lost the whole thing in a storm. I’m not planning to remove mine anytime soon so I can’t even make a drawing for him.
I had a similar encounter with my Boat US policy. When I bought my boat it was in Stuart FL and we sailed it offshore using the Gulf Stream to push us along to the Chesapeake. Before we left I asked the exact same thing because my policy was worded as yours. I never got a definite answer but they verbally affirmed I was good at that distance offshore.
I really wasn’t satisfied with the answer but I took a chance. Before my wife and I go cruising tot he Bahamas and Caribbean, we’re going to find another insurer.Rich brings up a good point. The insulation in your unit is key. I just finished tearing out my old refrigerator. The foam insulation was poor. It was set and a prior owner had attempted a fix by adding spray foam. Unfortunately the spray foam just made it harder for me to pull it out. I intend to replace the old unit With at least 4″ of foam in the refrigerator compartment and 6″ of foam in the freezer compartment.
I wonder if maybe it was optional or during a transition when they were building hulls at such a rate that some were cored and some not. I’m 100% sure my hull is solid not cored. I’ve patched up enough holes and been all over the boat enough to know. Now, the deck is cored for sure.
Ours is a 1982 hull 186 and we have a solid hull. I would say between Brian’s answer above and mine, the change to cored hulls was sometime in 82 or 83.
Fat fingered hull number it’s really 187
Ours is a 1982 hull 186 and we have a solid hull. I would say between Brian’s answer above and mine, the change to cored hulls was sometime in 82 or 83.
I installed an Isotherm SPA 20 about 4 years ago and have been satisfied with it both using 120V electric heating dockside and using engine heat when cruising. I installed it in the middle of three lockers under the aft cabin berth.
Patrick,
Do you find the 20l capacity enough? We plan to eventually move aboard for a few year so we’re concerned with tank size but also want to be water conscious. The 20 is a better fit then the 25 (length) and the 30 is even a better fit since it’s a bigger diameter that still fits in the locker and shorter than the 20 and 25, allowing very little modification to the locker.
Thanks,
RichEduardo,
I bought two 20 x 40 White extra heady duty tarps and they’ve work very well over the past two winters. I reinforced the edges with gorilla tape and added a bunch of grommets to distribute the stress on the grommets. Use 1 gallon milk jugs about every two feet (40 in all) as weights to hold the tarp down and you’re all set. Total cost less than $200.
RichHello team.
I know it’s been a while on this thread but being a new owner I need a winter cover for my #144 ketch.
Is there any used one for sale any of you are trying to get rid of ?
anybody found a manufacturer that does not charge and arm and a leg for one?
Tnx
I can tell you from experience that the hull will flex a bit when out in rough seas. If you’re coating the inside of the hull with anything, it has to adhere well and not crack when flexed. Have you had to boat out in rough seas after using this stuff? By rough, I mean pounding conditions.
Rich, I have not applied it yet. Nick did. I see your point and I understand the coating dries to a flexible consistency. Almost rubbery. I’ll give it a test at home first then maybe in a small area like the v berth first. Good point.
Scary stuff, thanks for sharing. I try and do a leak down test on the system once a month but obviously it only takes one time with a sudden leak to bring on disaster. Was it just coincidence that it ignited when she went to operate the solenoid? Was the source of ignition the stove itself?
We recently installed a detector that alarms and shuts off the solenoid below the stove but I do worry about the line running through some spaces that are hard to inspect.
Best wishes for a speedy recovery, thanks again for sharing. I see people get complacent with their propane systems and always good to be reminded that it, 120V power and gasoline are three very real dangers on a boat.
– Bryan
S/V PelicanBryan,
Not a coincidence. The solenoid switch definitely caused it. The breech in the pipe was about 7 inches from the switch and the switch box was in less than pristine condition. The stove itself was off when it ignited. We’d been sailing for two solid weeks before without incident.The new replacement system will have sniffers and we’re relocating the control from the factory location left of the stove to the inboard side of the cabinet above the sink. This will put the operator a couple steps away from the stove and in a location that the hose won’t pass through.
Rich
