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Not a sloop, but for our cutter we looked at used sails and they were showing us sails with luffs from 44 feet to 49 feet. We were interested in a 47.8/44.5/27.6 that came off a Bristol 40′, however, we ended up buying a very cheap symmetrical and flying it like an assym just for the trip across the GOM. We used an ATN Tacker and a chute scoop. Designing a proper new asymmetrical is on the list but if you want to come check out our set up the chute scoop and tacker work great.
I attached a picture of the asymmetrical (they let us try it out) flying off the tacker and then the symmetrical with the chute scoop at the top.
As for used sails, Masthead Sailing Gear has a pretty good selection if you aren’t hung up on having a giant Vigari logo on the sail 😛
Pearson 424 Plan C
- This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by Bryan Bywalec.
June 30, 2019 at 3:42 pm in reply to: attaching a tiller mount to rudder shaft for autopilot #225113
We are currently fitting a B&G T2 hydraulic ram coupled to the NAC-3 computer. We’ve seen boats that used a tiller on the square part above the quadrant but elected to go with the Edson Tiller Arm that fits below the quadrant. It isn’t cheap but we didn’t want to make fitting an emergency tiller that much harder. We are using the 10″ one.
I’ve attached a picture of what the tiller looks like above the quadrant on another Pearson 424 in our area with the same T2 ram. Sorry they aren’t better quality, I took the pictures after three bushwhackers.
The last photo is of our boat with the proposed location of the ram. The tiller arm is on its way and should be installed on the 13th. We had to build a foundation for it to sit on but haven’t glassed it in yet as we want to confirm the setup with the actual tiller. What is shown is a mock up.
Right now I’m trying to locate a good spot to mount the solid state compass and computer!
Jefa makes a direct drive electric unit that we were considering but ended up going with the T2 ram based on our research. We will use it both sailing and motoring.
Did you sort it out with the boat out of the water? Curious to know what the end results were…
Are you willing to go to dual belts? I’ve heard that 110 amps is about as large as you can go with a single belt. The engine should be fine although it robs about 2-3 horsepower to do 110 amps. If you want something larger than that you might also add a switch to deactivate the unit when you find yourself in need of a few more horsepower in adverse conditions.
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I moved your post to the general discussion forum in hopes of driving more responses to it. Don’t know if you dove in and ensured the rudder knock was happening at the bottom but there is also a bushing at the top that can come loose and cause vibrations.
See the bottom of this page: Rudder Stuffing Box and Bushing
Juniper is a plan C ketch. Not sure if fridge sizes varied between boat layouts.
Is there a Plan C Ketch? I thought they were all cutters. Do you have the galley to starboard? Just curious.
We have a plan C and a “SEA FROST BD 12 with AEO” air cooled system and I don’t have any complaints although haven’t gotten to the energy audit part of the refit yet.
Can you describe your main vs auxiliary fills? I hate the location of our plan C’s fill and am thinking about reworking it. Wondering what you are doing with your two fills.
You might have more luck if you post in the General Discussion section of the site.
To answer your question, almost any commonly sold automotive diesel starting battery will work. The manual is silent on sizing. Common automotive diesel engines are much larger and can be started easily. That being said, it is always nice to size the start battery as an emergency reserve so up-sizing is common and a matter of personal preference.
AS for the windlass, I highly recommend just biting the bullet and running large diameter wires from your house bank to the windlass. It is a waste to carry around a battery in the bow to save money on wiring when you could then use that battery to buffer the amp hours you are drawing from the house bank. This is especially true considering you probably only run the windlass when the engine is running.
I need the dimension for the height to mount my attachment for the stay to the mast.
The sloop sail plan drawing on the site lists that it applies to only hulls 1 through 205. Perhaps that is when they changed the deck mold for the sloop.
The J dimensions, bow to front of mast, of the Ketch is 15.75 ft. For the Cutter it is 18.20 ft. According to my reverse engineering of the cutter GA drawing, the staysail attaches 31.65 ft above the deck at the mast on the cutter.
The Plan C has a different interior bulkhead layout than the Ketch or the Sloop so the deck attachment point may need to be investigated. I believe the bulkhead on the Ketch is farther aft and if the mast is farther forward it might cause the sail to be super tall and skinny if you use the cutter dimension.
If you can measure the J dimension of your boat and propose a place to attach it on the deck I think we can narrow down a proper height.
Where do you intend to attach it to the deck? It needs to be a strong point like a bulkhead or you’ll have to add a rod to hold the connenection down. My cutter also has check stays to prevent the mast bending forward at the staysail connection.
The drawing on sailboatdata.com actually shows two mast locations for the Plan A so you can get a sense of the difference in the attached picture.
Thanks for pointing out that the cutter plan is actually the sloop plan. I have been reorganizing the data on the site and didn’t catch that… I’ll look in my documents to see if I have the actual sail plan. I have a Plan C so if you need measurements I can take them from the actual boat too. I have to go up the mast this weekend anyway.
My wife and I have been working on CAD drawings of the Plan C so we can always make one from scratch if no one has one.
Doing some analysis on the Owner’s Registry it would appear that up to hull 125 had Westerbeke 60s, hulls 140-187 had a mixture and post hull 189 almost everything was a 58. However these are human reported stats and quite incomplete so take them with a grain of salt. The W58 is a good bit shorter and lighter according to Westerbeke’s website.
Our boat has a W58 which is currently humming right along but if she were to give up the ghost I’d also probably look at a Beta with Yanmar as a close second.
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Does it have a v-drive? I believe that the 424s have 1:1 transmissions but a reduction gear in the v-drive.
I am the proud and happy guy owned by New Hope, a Ketch rig, bought last November 2017 in Barcelona. Hull N° 75.
We organize community sailing activities and navigations with our Barcelona Balearics sailing Association.
In the owners list in the site it looks like New Hope was previously based in Seattle.
Does anyone has any idea of the story of the boat, and how many previous owners when she was on your side of the Atlantic ?
Thanks and congratulations for this site,
Calle Comte Borrell 227
It looks like she was documented in 1996 and already named New Hope at that time. The owner on that Certificate of Documentation was listed as JANANT INC. There weren’t any previous owner’s listed so they must have been the first to document her. There were no USCG contacts between 1996 and now so they never got boarded either! Trail goes cold as I couldn’t find any contact information for Janant Inc.