Raw water cooling

[sumocean]

Hi all

I just cleaned out the vdrive for the first time ever. I didn’t know what to expect to see when I took off the top cover. What I saw was a solid black chunk that looked like old rusted metal. The yard manager suggested that I use delimer to eat the crud and then flush it with fresh water. I did it and opened the cover and there was the same black chunk. It was solid and had the shape of the cover cast into it. After two hours of scratching with a screwdriver, wire brush and using the shop vac it was shiny and looked like new. The amazing thing to me was that water even could pass through, but when I was flushing it out water was flowing full stream. I think that most of the funk was sediment from the creek. The bottom here is very soft mud and it seemed that it has protected the metal in the vdrive. The cleaning will be added to my maintenance list for each season to prevent it from getting so bad.
The primary reason that people have replaced the vdrive is corrosion from the raw water cooling, correct? If I don’t have any leaks and the cooling chamber is in good shape so I should be good for a while longer I hope.
The water inlet for the Cummins engine is 90 degrees to the center of the boat and the hose is in a tight turn to fit onto the the nipple on the raw water pump and fit in the engine box. When I was trying to tighten the hose clamp it kept slipping off, of course the soapy water made it slippery so after it has dried it may be OK. The hose should take on the bend after being there for a while but I was thinking of putting a 90 and a short section of hose to make the hose run with less stress. So long as I use bronze for the 90 and good hose clamps this should be a safe way to do it shouldn’t it? I just worry about weird stuff sometimes. The fact that the 90 will only be supported by the hose is what is bugging me I guess. Any ideas or input will be appreciated.

Linus
SUMOCEAN #34

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[madsailor]

Hi Linus,

Someone mentioned the plugs in the V-drive and that they looked as if a zinc could go in there but that they didn't want to put a zinc in there because they didn't want a zinc in the raw water pump.

I sort of think a zinc is a good idea especially if one keeps up with it. But what do I know? I know there's one in one of the heat exchangers at the back (front) of the W58…

I'll have to look at mine now as it needs an oil change anyway…

Bob

On Tue, May 6, 2008 at 12:20 PM, Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Hi all

I just cleaned out the vdrive for the first time ever. I didn't know what to expect to see when I took off the top cover. What I saw was a solid black chunk that looked like old rusted metal. The yard manager suggested that I use delimer to eat the crud and then flush it with fresh water. I did it and opened the cover and there was the same black chunk. It was solid and had the shape of the cover cast into it. After two hours of scratching with a screwdriver, wire brush and using the shop vac it was shiny and looked like new. The amazing thing to me was that water even could pass through, but when I was flushing it out water was flowing full stream. I think that most of the funk was sediment from the creek. The bottom here is very soft mud and it seemed that it has protected the metal in the vdrive. The cleaning will be added to my maintenance list for each season to prevent it from getting so bad.
The primary reason that people have replaced the vdrive is corrosion from the raw water cooling, correct? If I don't have any leaks and the cooling chamber is in good shape so I should be good for a while longer I hope.
The water inlet for the Cummins engine is 90 degrees to the center of the boat and the hose is in a tight turn to fit onto the the nipple on the raw water pump and fit in the engine box. When I was trying to tighten the hose clamp it kept slipping off, of course the soapy water made it slippery so after it has dried it may be OK. The hose should take on the bend after being there for a while but I was thinking of putting a 90 and a short section of hose to make the hose run with less stress. So long as I use bronze for the 90 and good hose clamps this should be a safe way to do it shouldn't it? I just worry about weird stuff sometimes. The fact that the 90 will only be supported by the hose is what is bugging me I guess. Any ideas or input will be appreciated.

Linus
SUMOCEAN #34

—
Bob Fine
Fine Software LLC
Your data on the web your way. No kidding

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[rdugger]

Linus
I found something similar in mine. I capped off the raw water in and out and then filled the space with AMS synthetic 30W oil. Others on the list have done something similar. The V Drive has never gotten more than warm…
Rick
Eclipse #73

On Tue, May 6, 2008 at 2:20 PM, Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Hi all

I just cleaned out the vdrive for the first time ever. I didn't know what to expect to see when I took off the top cover. What I saw was a solid black chunk that looked like old rusted metal. The yard manager suggested that I use delimer to eat the crud and then flush it with fresh water. I did it and opened the cover and there was the same black chunk. It was solid and had the shape of the cover cast into it. After two hours of scratching with a screwdriver, wire brush and using the shop vac it was shiny and looked like new. The amazing thing to me was that water even could pass through, but when I was flushing it out water was flowing full stream. I think that most of the funk was sediment from the creek. The bottom here is very soft mud and it seemed that it has protected the metal in the vdrive. The cleaning will be added to my maintenance list for each season to prevent it from getting so bad.
The primary reason that people have replaced the vdrive is corrosion from the raw water cooling, correct? If I don't have any leaks and the cooling chamber is in good shape so I should be good for a while longer I hope.
The water inlet for the Cummins engine is 90 degrees to the center of the boat and the hose is in a tight turn to fit onto the the nipple on the raw water pump and fit in the engine box. When I was trying to tighten the hose clamp it kept slipping off, of course the soapy water made it slippery so after it has dried it may be OK. The hose should take on the bend after being there for a while but I was thinking of putting a 90 and a short section of hose to make the hose run with less stress. So long as I use bronze for the 90 and good hose clamps this should be a safe way to do it shouldn't it? I just worry about weird stuff sometimes. The fact that the 90 will only be supported by the hose is what is bugging me I guess. Any ideas or input will be appreciated.

Linus
SUMOCEAN #34

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[Anonymous]

I just disconnected the water. Is there a reason to cap it off and fill it?

I’ve hit it with a IR thermometer after running 7 hours and it was 90 degrees or so.

On 5/6/08 7:23 PM, Rick Dugger wrote :

Linus
I found something similar in mine. I capped off the raw water in and out and then filled the space with AMS synthetic 30W oil. Others on the list have done something similar. The V Drive has never gotten more than warm…
Rick
Eclipse #73

On Tue, May 6, 2008 at 2:20 PM, Linus Sumocean <> wrote:

Hi all

I just cleaned out the vdrive for the first time ever. I didn’t know what to expect to see when I took off the top cover. What I saw was a solid black chunk that looked like old rusted metal. The yard manager suggested that I use delimer to eat the crud and then flush it with fresh water. I did it and opened the cover and there was the same black chunk. It was solid and had the shape of the cover cast into it. After two hours of scratching with a screwdriver, wire brush and using the shop vac it was shiny and looked like new. The amazing thing to me was that water even could pass through, but when I was flushing it out water was flowing full stream. I think that most of the funk was sediment from the creek. The bottom here is very soft mud and it seemed that it has protected the metal in the vdrive. The cleaning will be added to my maintenance list for each season to prevent it from getting so bad.
The primary reason that people have replaced the vdrive is corrosion from the raw water cooling, correct? If I don’t have any leaks and the cooling chamber is in good shape so I should be good for a while longer I hope.
The water inlet for the Cummins engine is 90 degrees to the center of the boat and the hose is in a tight turn to fit onto the the nipple on the raw water pump and fit in the engine box. When I was trying to tighten the hose clamp it kept slipping off, of course the soapy water made it slippery so after it has dried it may be OK. The hose should take on the bend after being there for a while but I was thinking of putting a 90 and a short section of hose to make the hose run with less stress. So long as I use bronze for the 90 and good hose clamps this should be a safe way to do it shouldn’t it? I just worry about weird stuff sometimes. The fact that the 90 will only be supported by the hose is what is bugging me I guess. Any ideas or input will be appreciated.

Linus
SUMOCEAN #34

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[rdugger]

I thought that filling it with oil might somehow help it cool itself… sounds like it isn't necessary..
Rick

On 5/7/08, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I just disconnected the water. Is there a reason to cap it off and fill it?

I’ve hit it with a IR thermometer after running 7 hours and it was 90 degrees or so.

On 5/6/08 7:23 PM, Rick Dugger wrote :

Linus
I found something similar in mine. I capped off the raw water in and out and then filled the space with AMS synthetic 30W oil. Others on the list have done something similar. The V Drive has never gotten more than warm…
Rick
Eclipse #73

On Tue, May 6, 2008 at 2:20 PM, Linus Sumocean < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Hi all

I just cleaned out the vdrive for the first time ever. I didn't know what to expect to see when I took off the top cover. What I saw was a solid black chunk that looked like old rusted metal. The yard manager suggested that I use delimer to eat the crud and then flush it with fresh water. I did it and opened the cover and there was the same black chunk. It was solid and had the shape of the cover cast into it. After two hours of scratching with a screwdriver, wire brush and using the shop vac it was shiny and looked like new. The amazing thing to me was that water even could pass through, but when I was flushing it out water was flowing full stream. I think that most of the funk was sediment from the creek. The bottom here is very soft mud and it seemed that it has protected the metal in the vdrive. The cleaning will be added to my maintenance list for each season to prevent it from getting so bad.
The primary reason that people have replaced the vdrive is corrosion from the raw water cooling, correct? If I don't have any leaks and the cooling chamber is in good shape so I should be good for a while longer I hope.
The water inlet for the Cummins engine is 90 degrees to the center of the boat and the hose is in a tight turn to fit onto the the nipple on the raw water pump and fit in the engine box. When I was trying to tighten the hose clamp it kept slipping off, of course the soapy water made it slippery so after it has dried it may be OK. The hose should take on the bend after being there for a while but I was thinking of putting a 90 and a short section of hose to make the hose run with less stress. So long as I use bronze for the 90 and good hose clamps this should be a safe way to do it shouldn't it? I just worry about weird stuff sometimes. The fact that the 90 will only be supported by the hose is what is bugging me I guess. Any ideas or input will be appreciated.

Linus
SUMOCEAN #34

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[RichCarter]

Linus
It is rust. It’s hard to believe that iron could expand that much, but it does. I assume that it combines with the salt in seawater to make up some of the mass. You are correct in your assumption that the V-drive fails from corrosion and not wear. The replacement unit I bought has an oil cooler inside the cooling jacket, so it will clog more easily and be more difficult to clean. Cleaning is on my to-do list, but I may not get to it this year.

—
Rich Carter

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[RichCarter]

I can confirm that the RV-26 I have gets warm to the touch even with cooling water running through it. I assume that it is because the new engine I have puts out a lot more power and therefore runs the V-drive harder. Walter’s specs say that 75hp (diesel) is close to the limit that an RV-26 will handle. When asked about running the RV-20 dry in the past, they have claimed that it can’t be done, but experience has shown that with care it is possible with some engine configurations. If you run it dry, I suggest a temperature alarm on the V-drive to warn you before it goes up in smoke.

When my RV-26 eventually has problems, I plan to send it back to Walter to have the cases replaced and a rebuild done. I rebuilt my old RV-20 once and don’t want to do it again. It was a bear to get the torque settings correct.

—
Rich Carter

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[Seawater]

I have been running my Walter RV20 without any form of cooling for 2 seasons without it every getting more than slightly warm to the touch, even motoring the entire Gulf of Maine.

I put a temp sensor on it that will alsret me if it gets to 200 degrees, but it is now clear that it never will.

[Syringa]

I remove the raw water cooling from my V-drive last year. I put a temp gauge in the bottm of the drive to check the temp of oil it’s only hit 110 D on a hard rum. Walter states the v-drive should run about 160 to 180 and can go up to 210 for a short time.

[Paul Lefebvre]

Walter And Syringa:

Did you fill the cooling chamber on the RV-20 with oil or just leave the
cover off and let it air cool.

Paul
Boundless #28

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[Seawater]

I filled it with oil, thinking that exposure to air after exposure to corrosive salt water would result in more rust. I don’t think it contributes to cooling, but I have no way of knowing.

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