Dan-
yes there is a clip about midway down the pedestal that holds both cables. you know where it is because a screw shows where the clip is fastened to the pedestal.then follow these instructions:

REMOVE COMPASS
Before removing the compass bolts, run a piece of electrical tape vertically from the compass across the engine control housing, top plate, and onto the pedestal. Slit the tape at each joint. This will help you realign the compass with the other parts when you reassemble this upper part of the pedestal. Remove the four round head 1/4-20 x 3-1/2 machine screws that serve as compass bolts.
REMOVE THE BRASS CLEVIS PINS FROM THE CONTROL LEVERS IN THE ENGINE CONTROL HOUSING
The clevises are screwed to the end of the engine control cables. Note which holes in the control levers the clevis pins came from. This helps when reassembling this unit.
REMOVE ENGINE CONTROL HOUSING
REMOVE THE CABLE HOLDER NUT OR ROUND HEAD MACHINE SCREW
located on the aft side of the pedestal tube approximately 7″ below the wheel shaft. This will release the Cable Holder (A-969 or A-705) that holds the two engine control cables. These cables remain attached to the cable holder inside the pedestal tube.
BRING BOTH CONTROL CABLES TO THE SAME SIDE OF WHEEL SHAFT.
From the top of the pedestal, push down both of the engine control cables just far enough so you can bring the throttle control cable (right hand side) under the wheel shaft and over to the left aft side of the pedestal along with the clutch cable.
PULL BOTH CONTROL CABLES UP.
With both control cables now on the same side of the steering wheel shaft, pull the cables up until you can reach the cable holder.
Due to the limited amount of space in the pedestal tube the cable holder sometimes gets jammed up with the steering chain and cables. One solution to this problem is to turn the steering wheel shaft all the way to port, thus putting most of the steering chain over on the left side with the two engine control cables and cable holder. Then, while pulling up on the engine control cables, turn the steering wheel shaft back to starboard. The upward movement of the chain can help bring the cable holder and control cables up to a level where they can be reached.
Working space can be gained in the upper section of the pedestal by moving the chain forward of the chain sprocket. To do this, first tighten the brake, then ease the tension of the chain and steering cables by backing off the nuts on the takeup eyes located on your radial drive wheel or quadrant which is attached to the rudderpost. With slack in the steering cables, lift the steering chain and move it forward of the hub sprocket located on the steering wheel shaft.
REMOVE THE BROKEN ENGINE CONTROL CABLE
Now that you can reach the cable holder, remove the broken engine control cable. When removing the bad engine control cable, make sure you attach a “messenger” line, or the new replacement cable, to the end of the original cable. You will use the “messenger” line to run the new replacement cable through the same route as the original engine control cable.
RUN THE NEW ENGINE CONTROL CABLE
Using the “messenger” line, pull the new engine control cable into place.

Good luck- I’ve only done it once, and that was a tough one!

Rodd