Aaron, remove all the top nuts on the engine mounts. Be careful not to adjust the lower nuts.
Using a 2×4 you should be able to lever the engine up enough to get some cribbing under that corner freeing the load on the existing mount. It shouldn't require that you lift it more than an inch or so. Give all the bolts on the mount a good soaking of PB blaster before you try to back them out. Note that the bolt holes are exposed at the back end of the bolt also, try to get some back there too since its under the water pump and rust is likely. Snapping one of those off would make for a nasty project. If they don't budge, try a propane torch, heating up a corner at a time where the bolt passes through the base. The base is actually yet another mount that directly bolts to the block. Don't sweat warming it up.

From what I've read on here that particular mount has a tendency to break, I would guess due to torsional load.

If you want some reference pictures let me know. My motors still in the garage.

On Wed, May 14, 2008 at 2:49 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:

My aft starboard motor mount is broken.

I have a new one, but have really no idea how to replace it. DO I have to loosen everything, attach the motor to a comealong attached to a 4×4 across the companionway, lift and then replace? Or is there (please god) and easier way?

Can I replace the sucker without realigning the engine (Which I REALLY don’t know how to do)

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Peter:

Here is a copy of an e-mail I wrote last summer on the subject of sources
for engine mounts. I have attached a picture of them. As you can see, it is
beefier than the old one. Also, it is a bit higher. I have used a die to cut
a few extra threads at the bottom of the 5/8″ stud, so I can move the lower
bolt lower if required. If I need to go even lower, I will use washers only
as shims. You can see how bent the old mount was. That was because of the
engine pan that has sloped outwards. I am now building them up with
fiberglass ( they dropped 5/8″ over the 3″ width). Of course, as mentioned
earlier, some of my mount arms bolts had sheared off in the block.

Aaron, if you need to lift the whole engine, I did use a 4×4 across the
companion way. In order to spread the load, I supported the outside ends of
the 4×4 on the coaming a couple of inches above the companionway. That way,
the first part of the load was on the coaming, until the 4×4 had deflected 2
inches, then the companionway took up the rest of the load. I don’t know if
this was necessary, but I felt better spreading around the load.

“My original mounts appear to be from Bushings Inc. While their website
doesn’t mention the W60, they do give the following mount “DF-2207-2” for
the W58 and W70.

http://www.bushingsinc.com/Acrobat/DF-2200%20SERIES.pdf

Has anyone else used these mounts or can recommend others. I am a little
concerned about the minimum clearance at 2 3/8″, as it looks like my current
height is closer to 2″

You can get these at go2marine for $47.95, which is a lot better than the
$128.81 Torrensen Marine wants for the Westerbeke part.

http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=85481F

http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog_group.php?page_ident=13316-234-235&model=W60%20Propulsion%20/%20WPDS-20%20Generator&manufacturer=Westerbeke&title=W-60%20and%20WPDS%2020-Mounts&catalog=13316&printparts=&printservice=&printoperators=&comment1=&incontext=11687“

Regards,,

Paul Lefebvre
Boundless #28

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If Torrenson is selling those for $44., it will be interesting to see what
they shipped to Aaron for $140. I assume it is something more than just
painting them red.

Paul

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Aaron
I see that you’ve received lots of replies to this one. I assume that you’ve broken the mounting feet that attach to the engine bed and not the mounting bracket that bolts to the engine. Using a cable-winch to lift the engine a bit may sound like a big deal, but it isn’t. Of course, it depends on which mount is broken. If it’s an aft mount, I’m not sure you can get in there with a winch to lift that end.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/exhaustBend.JPG

There is probably no need to remove the drive shaft. You might try levering it first, but be careful not to break an flange on the engine. If you attempt to loosen the other motor mounts, you may break one or more free from the bushing. If you plan on keeping the same engine in there for some time, you may be better off just replacing all four. Before you make this decision, take a good look at access to the nuts under the engine bed flange. As mentioned several times in the past, Pearson did a poor job with the engine bed. It can be very difficult to get under the pan flange with a wrench to hold the nut on the bottom. I considered replacing the mounts on my old engine at one point in time, but decided it would be almost impossible to get the old ones out. When I repowered, I replaced the fiberglass flange with steel. The nuts are welded to the underside. This probably doesn’t help you out since I doubt you’ll be doing work to your pan just to replace a mount. You
may b
e able to cut and weld steel plates to fit under the fiberglass flange. With nuts welded to this, it may make it easier for you to reinstall the new engine mounts since you won’t have to hold the nuts.

—
Rich Carter

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I bought my own red paint and painted my parts.
Is that like having a fake Rolex?
alan
— Pete Dubler <> wrote:

That red paint is really expensive.

Aaron Lynch wrote:

Uh, yeah, just what I was thinking 🙂

On 5/14/08 7:08 PM, Paul Lefebvre wrote :

If Torrenson is selling those for $44., it

will be interesting to

see what
they shipped to Aaron for $140. I assume it is

something more than

just
painting them red.

Paul

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Has anyone found softer mounts that isolate the engine vibration better?

I am planning on calling Sound Down in Gloucester Ma to see if they offer any. With our jack shafts, we should not have to worry much about the effect on alignment the extra motion might have.

Softer mounts will probably not translate to less vibration. The mounts resonate at different frequencies based on how much weight is on them. Going to a softer mount will mean that it resonates at a lower frequency, which may be more uncomfortable. There’s a writeup below:
http://www.yanmarhelp.com/s_vibr.htm

Rich Carter

Walter, softer mounts might only cause the engine to travel more in its attempt to free itself from the engine bed during operation. Something I noticed when doing my rebuild of the W60 is that the engine has no harmonic dampener. Viscous dampeners are standard on most current production diesel's these days. I think the design of the engine precludes it from ever not causing the stove top to impersonate a Browning 50 cal. I cannot say if the W58 has a similar deficiency. I doubt a 'bolt on' unit is something you could find unless you worked in a diesel shop and had the ability to try different configuration of parts and could actually test the results. It would replace the base attached to the crank that the lower engine pulley is mounted on. That base if you ever take it off was drilled out to accommodate the bolts below it, and I have to imagine isn't true to start with.

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0FZX/is_4_66/ai_62371121

The offset of the hull with relation to the V-Drive I think might be some source of some vibration, and is likely the reason some of us have leaky lower seals. Alignment of that portion of the propulsion system is probably more critical than the top side. All just guesses of course.

Chuck

On 5/15/08, Seawater < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Has anyone found softer mounts that isolate the engine vibration better?

I am planning on calling Sound Down in Gloucester Ma to see if they offer any. With our jack shafts, we should not have to worry much about the effect on alignment the extra motion might have.

Walter
SV Madness
P424 Hull #1

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Aaron-
We replaced the engine mounts on our W-58 a couple years ago. They appeared to be the same as the W-60 mounts. The local Westerbeke dealer, Waterweay Marine, sold us Bushings Inc. mounts as replacements for the red ones.
A couple issues with these mounts, and if I had it to do over, I’d go with PYI or some more substantial brand. First, when we lifted the engine, the rubber pucks molded on the mounts slipped right out of the aluminum bases. The only thing holding the engine in place was gravity. This would be difficult in a knockdown as nothing would prevent the engine from rolling off its mounts. The dealer attributed this to oil or diesel getting on the mounts and softening the rubber part. Even with new mounts, I think a safety cable arrangement would be a good idea, esp. offshore.
The W-58 has an aluminum bellhousing and it is difficult to remove the engine mount studs from the bellhousing. For us, it took a hydraulic press and application of heat to the aluminum.
The recommended Bushings Inc. mounts are at the upper end of their designed for engine weight with a 700 pound W-58. I suspect the W-60 is at least that heavy.
You might consider replacing all four mounts if you go to the less expensive Bushings Inc. or other brand. If you do lift the trans end of the engine, disconnect the driveshaft at the transmission as the seal and the universal joints at the input end of the V-drive are easily damaged.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132

“A couple issues with these mounts, and if I had it to do over, I’d go with
PYI or some more substantial brand. First, when we lifted the engine, the
rubber pucks molded on the mounts slipped right out of the aluminum bases.
The only thing holding the engine in place was gravity. This would be
difficult in a knockdown as nothing would prevent the engine from rolling
off its mounts. The dealer attributed this to oil or diesel getting on the
mounts and softening the rubber part. Even with new mounts, I think a
safety cable arrangement would be a good idea, esp. offshore.”

Bushings does have one other mount that would work and has slightly higher
capacity that the DF-2207-2. The DF-206 has a 5/8′ stud and 4″ centers. It
is rated at 800 lbs, versus 750 for the DF-2207-2. They only cost $7 more
than the recommended mounts. You would need to increase your mounting bolts
to 1/2″ from 3/8′ to use them. It never hurts to up size a bit.

I see that the new design of these mounts now includes a lip to resist the
upward pull on the mount. The original ones didn’t have this, as witnessed
by Quent.

http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/index.php?p=details&ident=173636&mfc=BUSHINGS+INC&sku=DF-206&prod_name=Engine+Mount+4%22+centers%2C+5%2F8%22+stud%2C+for+engines+up+to+800%23%27s&sectionid=5159

Paul
Boundless #28

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