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I understand the solenoid usage and tying it to the bilge pump, makes sense.
But, where do you plumb in the shore water, I assume you have to do it into the water source selection valves under the galley or put a Y-Valve into the line that goes from the deck to one of the tanks (or both so you never have to run a hose across the deck) so you can supply shore water to the plumbing but not be overfilling your tanks as I read in the other threads.
-p
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Patrick,
You would put a water inlet fitting somewhere in the cockpit where it would be out of the way. Right behind this, you’d connect the solenoid valve, pressure regulator, and check-valve. Then run a pressure water line to the pressure side of the water pump. On my boat, there’s an accumulator tank followed by a water filter on that end. I’d connect it with a ‘T’ connection just before the water filter.http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|106370|316448|314211&id=133612
Here’s a water inlet with built-in check valve and pressure regulator, but it’s not marine 😉
http://www.rvpartscenter.com/ProductDetail.asp?PID=26216&SID=36&DID=7&CID=291—
Rich Carter
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When I put the shore water connector in recently I put it in the port coaming pocket aft side. That way it's out of the way. Using the same 1/2″ plastic tubing that runs through the rest of the boat I plumbed in a whole house filter mounted on the bulkhead of the port lazerette, and continued on down into the locker where the water heater is. The water heater has two manifolds, the hot and the cold water sides. I connected the tubing to the cold water side.
Normally when the boat is at the dock, I turn off the water pump and just use city pressure to do the job. I've thought of installing a bypass of the water pump so I can fill the tanks from city water but am a little leery of that because it would be too easy to contaminate tanks that way. The bypass would go from the pump discharge to the tank manifold. Whatever valves are open in the manifold would lead to the tank you're filling.
As an aside, a PO installed all tygon tubing with no reinforcement. I'll be replacing all that on both the tank supply lines and vent lines so that bursting is no longer an issue. I'll also remove the old, replaced lines the PO left in place for God knows what reason.
Anyway, my two cents. With the tanks properly sealed and vented, I'll know when it's full by vent overflow and when it's empty when it runs dry. Also, I'll be installing the SCADtech thinger.
Bob
On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 9:29 AM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I understand the solenoid usage and tying it to the bilge pump, makes sense.But, where do you plumb in the shore water, I assume you have to do it into the water source selection valves under the galley or put a Y-Valve into the line that goes from the deck to one of the tanks (or both so you never have to run a hose across the deck) so you can supply shore water to the plumbing but not be overfilling your tanks as I read in the other threads.
-p
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I gotta admit I would like to use shore water pressure, especially right now when I started to take a shower and discovered my tank just went dry. Gotta run the hose from the dock to the deck open deck plates, then monitor the water level in each tank until full.
The only thing that keeps me from implementing the shore water system is my experience in Florida a few years ago. My neighbor's AC was cycling on and off every 30 seconds with the stream of water coming out of the thru-hull. It was pretty noisy. When my neighbor showed up and went aboard I asked if he planned to run his noisy AC all night. He replied, “????? – I ain't got no Air Conditioner!”
Well he did have a very powerful bilge pump and a really clean bilge.John
On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 1:28 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:When I put the shore water connector in recently I put it in the port coaming pocket aft side. That way it's out of the way. Using the same 1/2″ plastic tubing that runs through the rest of the boat I plumbed in a whole house filter mounted on the bulkhead of the port lazerette, and continued on down into the locker where the water heater is. The water heater has two manifolds, the hot and the cold water sides. I connected the tubing to the cold water side.Normally when the boat is at the dock, I turn off the water pump and just use city pressure to do the job. I've thought of installing a bypass of the water pump so I can fill the tanks from city water but am a little leery of that because it would be too easy to contaminate tanks that way. The bypass would go from the pump discharge to the tank manifold. Whatever valves are open in the manifold would lead to the tank you're filling.
As an aside, a PO installed all tygon tubing with no reinforcement. I'll be replacing all that on both the tank supply lines and vent lines so that bursting is no longer an issue. I'll also remove the old, replaced lines the PO left in place for God knows what reason.
Anyway, my two cents. With the tanks properly sealed and vented, I'll know when it's full by vent overflow and when it's empty when it runs dry. Also, I'll be installing the SCADtech thinger.
Bob
On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 9:29 AM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I understand the solenoid usage and tying it to the bilge pump, makes sense.But, where do you plumb in the shore water, I assume you have to do it into the water source selection valves under the galley or put a Y-Valve into the line that goes from the deck to one of the tanks (or both so you never have to run a hose across the deck) so you can supply shore water to the plumbing but not be overfilling your tanks as I read in the other threads.
-p
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This problem is easily taken care of by shutting off the water when leaving the boat. I've installed in two boats with the water on continuously for weeks at a time with no leakage in the boat. On one, the hose burst because, apparently, you're not supposed to leave them pressurized out in the sun. Who knew?
A properly installed system is as likely to leak as a through hull… Probably less as the water is fresh and doesn't conduct electricity all that well so corrosion is not an issue.
Bob
On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 11:09 AM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I gotta admit I would like to use shore water pressure, especially right now when I started to take a shower and discovered my tank just went dry. Gotta run the hose from the dock to the deck open deck plates, then monitor the water level in each tank until full.
The only thing that keeps me from implementing the shore water system is my experience in Florida a few years ago. My neighbor's AC was cycling on and off every 30 seconds with the stream of water coming out of the thru-hull. It was pretty noisy. When my neighbor showed up and went aboard I asked if he planned to run his noisy AC all night. He replied, “????? – I ain't got no Air Conditioner!”
Well he did have a very powerful bilge pump and a really clean bilge.John
On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 1:28 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:When I put the shore water connector in recently I put it in the port coaming pocket aft side. That way it's out of the way. Using the same 1/2″ plastic tubing that runs through the rest of the boat I plumbed in a whole house filter mounted on the bulkhead of the port lazerette, and continued on down into the locker where the water heater is. The water heater has two manifolds, the hot and the cold water sides. I connected the tubing to the cold water side.Normally when the boat is at the dock, I turn off the water pump and just use city pressure to do the job. I've thought of installing a bypass of the water pump so I can fill the tanks from city water but am a little leery of that because it would be too easy to contaminate tanks that way. The bypass would go from the pump discharge to the tank manifold. Whatever valves are open in the manifold would lead to the tank you're filling.
As an aside, a PO installed all tygon tubing with no reinforcement. I'll be replacing all that on both the tank supply lines and vent lines so that bursting is no longer an issue. I'll also remove the old, replaced lines the PO left in place for God knows what reason.
Anyway, my two cents. With the tanks properly sealed and vented, I'll know when it's full by vent overflow and when it's empty when it runs dry. Also, I'll be installing the SCADtech thinger.
Bob
On Thu, Jun 19, 2008 at 9:29 AM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I understand the solenoid usage and tying it to the bilge pump, makes sense.But, where do you plumb in the shore water, I assume you have to do it into the water source selection valves under the galley or put a Y-Valve into the line that goes from the deck to one of the tanks (or both so you never have to run a hose across the deck) so you can supply shore water to the plumbing but not be overfilling your tanks as I read in the other threads.
-p
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