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    • #67088
      Adam Silverstein
      Participant

      where is the 110/120 sheeted on the ketch? I have extensive leech flop
      in most configurations.

      -Adam Silverstein-iPhone
      (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)


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    • #70321
      unabated
      Participant

      Adam, I have a ketch but not the 110/120 lapper. I use
      a 140.
      All boats will sheet a little different depending on
      the tension on the rig. Car position will depend on
      the point of sail.
      But one of the issues with the 424, is that the track
      is too far outboard. So, even if you set the car
      position by watching on the flies break (to break
      evenly), you may not get the leach to stop flopping.
      I am sure that doesn’t answer your question.
      alan

      — adam silverstein <> wrote:

      where is the 110/120 sheeted on the ketch? I have
      extensive leech flop
      in most configurations.

      -Adam Silverstein-iPhone
      (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)


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      For additional commands, e-mail:


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    • #70322
      Adam Silverstein
      Participant

      actually it does. it explains the long tracks the p/o installed on the
      coachroof. now for some rube goldberging

      -Adam Silverstein-iPhone
      (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)

      On Jul 14, 2008, at 9:31 AM, alan P <> wrote:

      Adam, I have a ketch but not the 110/120 lapper. I use
      a 140.
      All boats will sheet a little different depending on
      the tension on the rig. Car position will depend on
      the point of sail.
      But one of the issues with the 424, is that the track
      is too far outboard. So, even if you set the car
      position by watching on the flies break (to break
      evenly), you may not get the leach to stop flopping.
      I am sure that doesn’t answer your question.
      alan

      — adam silverstein <> wrote:

      where is the 110/120 sheeted on the ketch? I have
      extensive leech flop
      in most configurations.

      -Adam Silverstein-iPhone
      (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)


      To unsubscribe, e-mail:

      For additional commands, e-mail:


      To unsubscribe, e-mail:
      For additional commands, e-mail:


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    • #70323
      RichCarter
      Participant

      Having spent a lot of time fixing the area around the main cabin companionway, I’d be very cautious of anything mounted on the deck. Unless it were done properly, water is bound to get into the deck. To do the right, you’d have to overdrill the holes and then dig out the balsa around each hole, then fill with epoxy and drill again. Then you’d need a backing plate. Even then, you may have problems with the track since the deck was never made to handle the load. Take a close look at the deck around the fasteners. If you have crazing, you have a problem.

      —
      Rich Carter


      Original message


      <.. snip>

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    • #70324
      Adam Silverstein
      Participant

      actually, cracks with rust stains. crazing is less scary. those were
      essentially my thoughts w/re out-thinking the designers & builders.

      -Adam Silverstein-iPhone
      (“trust everyone but cut the cards”)

      On Jul 14, 2008, at 11:32 AM, wrote:

      Quote:
      Having spent a lot of time fixing the area around the main cabin
      companionway, I’d be very cautious of anything mounted on the
      deck. Unless it were done properly, water is bound to get into the
      deck. To do the right, you’d have to overdrill the holes and then
      dig out the balsa around each hole, then fill with epoxy and drill
      again. Then you’d need a backing plate. Even then, you may have
      problems with the track since the deck was never made to handle the
      load. Take a close look at the deck around the fasteners. If you
      have crazing, you have a problem.

      —
      Rich Carter


      Original message


      <.. snip>

      Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

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