I have had similar experience but not in the same area.

I currently have a patch about 2×2 feet in the aft cabin that I believe resulted from the leaking water heater that I replaced about six months ago.

I have also had difficulty with the main cabin sole. After refinishing the entire sole two and a half years ago with Interlux polyurethane varnish all seemed fine until spring of the following year. I had had the boat shrink wrapped for the first time that winter and found a lot of moisture in the boat in the spring. the sole had darkened a lot in the main cabin which showed evidence of water marks. I refinished the main cabin a second time and all seemed fine for a while but I have again had problems in that area. In this case it hasn’t darkened as much as before but rather has a dull mottley appearance. I’m guessing that it is the result of foot traffic combined with water effects from spillage when filling water tanks. Very discouraging and I am not sure what to do next. Advice welcomed.

Phil Fontaine
Aurora

For what it’s worth, when I bought my boat I discovered evidence of water leakage from the hot water heater installed in the aft starboard wet locker next to the aft companionway. Although it took two seasons to run down all the leaks and replace hose accordingly, I have had to repair damage to the sole in the area where the nav station floor elevation drops to the sole elevation, along that seam, and then over to the engine bulkhead. Last year I resurfaced all wood finishes with a satin finish and there have been no issues since I ran down those hot water leaks.

I then discovered that some of my rail seats were old and leaking. So last winter I removed everything on the deck and re-attached with new caulking, etc. The result has been dramatic and mystery sources of water have disappeared.

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Phil
I think you are on the right track. Ambering would only result over time if the area is exposed to sunlight. It must be water working its way into the sole. This will eventually cause problems. There are three sources for water in the sole at the base of the main cabin ladder, the starboard water tank, the head, or the vented loop. In the last two cases, you’d be able to either see or smell a problem. I suspect the starboard water tank.

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Rich Carter

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Here come my two cents – First, replace the inspection plate on the water tanks with a stainless steel one. Those plastic inspection plates are not designed for pressure from the underside. Moreover, isn't it a pain in the butt to watch the water level? Getting all the cushions off and all that?

Next, the water tanks vent on the port side in a hidden bulkhead in the locker above the sink in the v-berth. The starboard one vents in the hanging locker. A stupider set of vents could not have been devised. Re-route them to loop up a few inches and then go to the bilge – if possible (and highly recommended) extend them to the deep part of the bilge.

Now, when you fill the tanks they vent to the bilge and you don't have to do all that moving of stuff. Also, the tank inspection ports don't leak all over the cabin sole.

Bob

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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

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Linus,

My boat came with 3 inspection ports evenly spaced fore & aft across the tops of each tank, and a lot of crud inside the tanks. Only one of the three ports had an easy-access hole cut through the plywood cover. I cut access holes above each of the other ports, angling the jig-saw blade inward so I could then set the cutouts back in the holes. I was able to scrub out the tanks with various scrubbers and brushes, including one with a foot-long handle, plus plenty of detergent, Comet, some bleach and several rinses in between and afterwards. Draining each rinse was simplified by cutting the tank-to-manifold hoses above the bilge sump and installing T’s and a drain hose aimed downward (which I otherwise keep plugged). I was able to get replacement O-rings for the inspection ports from their manufacturer, Beckson Marine.

I recently replaced most of the hoses on my boat – sanitation, seawater and freshwater – including the water tank-to-manifold hoses, which were gross after 30 years of use and neglect. I did have to remove the plywood cover to get at each salon tank’s exit hose fitting, but that’s a one-time fix. However, I’m going to follow the example of others in this group and cut access hatches into those aft bulkheads so I can use the dead space aft of the tanks. (I’ve just done that in the shower stall and, even though I knew there was a big space back there, I’m amazed and delighted at just how big it actually is. I’m thinking of using it as my garage.)

🙂
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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