Hi John,

Typically, an oil dipstick tube does not go all the way to the bottom of the sump – it is press fit into the block and ends either just inside or at the inside wall of the block. The dipstick itself doesn't go to the bottom of the sump, either, since all it has to measure is a narrow band of oil levels (once it's too low, it's always too low, even when it gets lower). The best way, of course, is to put a fitting in the oil pan drain and pump it from there. If you have access to drills and taps, drain the oil from the sump via the suction tube, then get the rest out using the drain plug. It'll be messy.

Take the plug and drill and tap it for a 1/2″ pipe fitting and put the fitting in with teflon tape. From that fitting you can run a high temperature hose to a high spot and cap it. When you need to remove the oil, connect your vacuum extractor to that hose and you'll be golden. Or, you can use a piece of copper tubing in the dipstick hole – just make sure you cut the end at an angle so that you aren't just sucking the tube to the bottom of the sump.

How're the Bahamas? Are you having a good time? I'm jealous!

Bob

On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 9:13 AM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Like a number of 424 owners I repowered to a 4JH engine, specifically in my case the 4JH4-AE. Other than having the engine block coolant drain cock come loose during a motorsailing passage and dump all of the coolant in the engine pan, the new engine has performed very well. The one problem I'm having is changing the oil.
For my W60 and on my previous boat I used a dipstick vacuum extractor made by Tempo (now Moeller, I think), and it always extracted at least 4 qts from the W60. Using the same extractor I'm lucky to get 2 qts out of the Yanmar, and that requires multiple pumping. With the W60 I just pumped the extractor about a dozen times then went away for 10 minutes. When I came back the extractor contained 4 qts of oil.
With the Yanmar it appears I cannot get the thin tube of the extractor completely into the oil sump, so the tube is sucking air along with oil from the start. I've tried using a 1/2″ ID instead of the insertion hose. I softened it a bit with a heat gun, then forced it over the outside of the dipstick tube. I had been told the dipstick tube goes completely to the bottom of the sump, but that does not appear to be the case because I once more go a lot of air into the tube and even less oil.

Any 4JH owner out there successfully using an extractor system that removes the bulk of the oil?
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Hi John,

I could tell you a story about a $25,000 oil change – it was a sailboat that had had the engine installed with no access at all to the oil drain plug, filter, or dipstick. All the cabinetry around the engine had to be dismantled, and part of the job was to put a drain and fill extension system in. Anyway, the yard pulled everything out, changed the oil and filter and put it all back together in time for the owner to show up – cost $15,000. Unfortunately, they had forgotten the extensions and had to do the job all over to install them.

But I won't tell you that story.

Bob

On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 11:32 AM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Thanks, Bob.
I considered putting a drain fitting on the sump when the engine was being installed, but changing the oil on the W60 via the dipstick was such a simple process I decided not to do it. Hopefully there is a dipstick extractor that works on this engine.
A supposedly very knowledgeable mechanic told me the Yanmar dipstick tube went to the bottom of the sump. The dipstick itself does not go to the bottom of the tube. Or at least that is what I was told.
I may re-try the 1/2″ ID hose, this time using a hose clamp. Possibly I was getting air in between the hose and the tube.

Haven't gotten to the Bahamas as yet, still in Melbourne. Wx held us up for most of the trip down the coast, forcing us to repeatedly go into the ICW. Finally my crew had to leave and I needed to put the boat somewhere before joining my brothers for Thanksgiving in MI. I had hoped to leave Melbourne today and get closer to the Ft. Pierce Inlet, but a strong cold front is due through tonight. This is the first time I've single-handed the boat in over a year, so I'm looking to start that adventure with settled weather. The cold front is also going to bring strong NE winds for several days, eventually swinging strong out of the E. So the Gulf Stream is going to be pretty rough for awhile. Hope to cross over to the Abacos early next week.

On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 9:38 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Hi John,

Typically, an oil dipstick tube does not go all the way to the bottom of the sump – it is press fit into the block and ends either just inside or at the inside wall of the block. The dipstick itself doesn't go to the bottom of the sump, either, since all it has to measure is a narrow band of oil levels (once it's too low, it's always too low, even when it gets lower). The best way, of course, is to put a fitting in the oil pan drain and pump it from there. If you have access to drills and taps, drain the oil from the sump via the suction tube, then get the rest out using the drain plug. It'll be messy.

Take the plug and drill and tap it for a 1/2″ pipe fitting and put the fitting in with teflon tape. From that fitting you can run a high temperature hose to a high spot and cap it. When you need to remove the oil, connect your vacuum extractor to that hose and you'll be golden. Or, you can use a piece of copper tubing in the dipstick hole – just make sure you cut the end at an angle so that you aren't just sucking the tube to the bottom of the sump.

How're the Bahamas? Are you having a good time? I'm jealous!

Bob

On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 9:13 AM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Like a number of 424 owners I repowered to a 4JH engine, specifically in my case the 4JH4-AE. Other than having the engine block coolant drain cock come loose during a motorsailing passage and dump all of the coolant in the engine pan, the new engine has performed very well. The one problem I'm having is changing the oil.
For my W60 and on my previous boat I used a dipstick vacuum extractor made by Tempo (now Moeller, I think), and it always extracted at least 4 qts from the W60. Using the same extractor I'm lucky to get 2 qts out of the Yanmar, and that requires multiple pumping. With the W60 I just pumped the extractor about a dozen times then went away for 10 minutes. When I came back the extractor contained 4 qts of oil.
With the Yanmar it appears I cannot get the thin tube of the extractor completely into the oil sump, so the tube is sucking air along with oil from the start. I've tried using a 1/2″ ID instead of the insertion hose. I softened it a bit with a heat gun, then forced it over the outside of the dipstick tube. I had been told the dipstick tube goes completely to the bottom of the sump, but that does not appear to be the case because I once more go a lot of air into the tube and even less oil.

Any 4JH owner out there successfully using an extractor system that removes the bulk of the oil?
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

When I change my oil on my 4jh3-te, I use one of those electric drill pumps. I clamp the hose on the end of the dipstick tube and pump the oil out. As long as the oil is warm and I get a tight seal, I can drain at least 4 quarts. I’m pretty sure the tube goes all the way down to the bottom of the crankcase. Be careful using a drill pump. If something slips loose, the oil will go everywhere.

Here’s a tip. When checking your oil, put the dipstick in the tube slowly to allow air to escape. Otherwise it will read low oil when in fact your engine is full.
—
Rich Carter

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

John,

When I was barely knee high to a sheet winch my daddy once told me, “Son, when all else fails read the instructions.” The Yanmar JH4 Series Operation Manual (P/N: 49961-206351) says on page 41 (Section 4.3.1), “It is easiest and most effective to drain the engine lubricating oil after operation while the engine is still warm. 1. Remove the lubricating oil dipstick. Attach the oil drain pump and pump out the oil. For easier draining, remove the oil filler cap (yellow) at the top of the rocker arm cover.” And so on.

Sounds like maybe you didn’t have a tight enough seal when you slid the hose over the dipstick tube. You might try it again with a hose clamp, and with the oil filler cap removed. I’d be interested to hear how you make out since I’m about to face the exact same challenge.

Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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