Lee-
I was lucky to find a new case for our v-drive from a FL dealer, but new or good used ones are difficult to find and then you are into cost of new seals and other parts. Some successfully run without cooling. However you need to be sure that the case has not rusted through between cooling passage and gearcase contaminating the oil.
Best cheap fix would be a used fresh water only RV-20 if you can find one, but if you are going offshore, IMHO, go for a new v-drive
Quent
Clairebuoyant #132

Lee
The same thing happened to mine. I replaced the bolt with a threaded stud. There were enough threads left in the bottom of the hole to catch a few threads. I set it in Marine Tex anyway. In fact, I chipped out all the rust and coated the whole inside with marine tex. The old v-drive was replaced 3 years ago.

Take a close look around the dip-stick hole. Mine started leaking through there and got water into the cases.

Rich

If you're going with the 'run it 'til it explodes' method which I agree with, you may want a spare hanging around somewhere where you can get it easily and quickly, especially if you're going off shore or to places like the Bahamas or something. That's the only downside to that method.

Bob

On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 11:00 PM, Aaron Lynch < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I’ve run mine hard for about 6 hours with no water, and it never got more than warm.
(I had saltwater mixing with the oil, so I got rid of the water 🙂

I haven’t had occasion to run it longer but I think it’s probably ok to run w/o cooling.

Besides, if it blows up you just have to get a new one, which is the exact same thing you have to do to ‘fix’ it anyway. I vote Run it til it explodes.

On 12/10/08 4:53 PM, Lee Yonkers wrote :

I pulled off the top plate on the V-drive and discovered that the center forward bolt hole is rusted to the point that the bolt has nothing to hold onto. I see three possible solutions:

1. Keep the plate off and not run cooling water through the unit.
2. Buy a new V-drive
3. Try to use JB Weld to build up the rusted out section and then drill and tap a new hole.

Opinions, criticisms, alternatives and comments welcomed.

Lee
Morning Glory #43

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

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Lee,

If you do elect to repair it with JB Weld or some similar product, you’ll get best results if you first eliminate the rust entirely. Wire brushing the area ’til it shines is a good start, but then brush on a phosphoric acid solution such as Ospho. Let that dry overnight, then do it again and let it dry again. Wipe away any loose residue afterwards – usually a bit of white powder on the surface – then apply the JB Weld, drill, tap, etc. When you’re done, prime and paint the area. It should last a long time.

Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I took the salt water cooling off Syringa’s V-Drive last year. I also put a temp gauge on the drive. My V-drive temp has never got above 130F and it has been running great. The running temp in the (Page 5 of the Walters V-Drive manual) states: “Proper operating temperatures are from 140F to 180F although safe operating temperatures may be as high as 210F” I also changed the oil from 90W to 30W.

Don
Syringa

I've run mine for two seasons w/o cooling water. It never gets more than a little warm…
I am aware of another 424 owner who has run his V drive w/o water for 4 seasons…

Rick
Eclipse #73

On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 7:53 PM, Lee Yonkers < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I pulled off the top plate on the V-drive and discovered that the center forward bolt hole is rusted to the point that the bolt has nothing to hold onto. I see three possible solutions:

1. Keep the plate off and not run cooling water through the unit.
2. Buy a new V-drive
3. Try to use JB Weld to build up the rusted out section and then drill and tap a new hole.

Opinions, criticisms, alternatives and comments welcomed.

Lee
Morning Glory #43

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What kind of temperature gauge did you put on? That sounds like a good idea no matter what.

-p

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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick

<.. snip>

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For those that are running without cooling on the V-drive, have you just
left the cover off, or did you fill it with oil of some type and plug the
cooling ports.

PS: If it is with the cover off, anybody want to buy the 3 sets of gaskets I
have for the cover real cheap. It looks like it doesn’t make any sense to
continue to corrode the V-drive away.

Thanks,

Paul

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I filled mine with AMS oil 30W…. and plugged the cooling ports..
On Mobjack Pearl I believe Doug left his dry.

Rick
Eclipse #73

On Thu, Dec 11, 2008 at 6:09 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:

For those that are running without cooling on the V-drive, have you just left the cover off, or did you fill it with oil of some type and plug the cooling ports.

PS: If it is with the cover off, anybody want to buy the 3 sets of gaskets I have for the cover real cheap. It looks like it doesn't make any sense to continue to corrode the V-drive away.

Thanks,

Paul

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Patrick

I got a 100F to 300F gauge and sending unit from NAPA. I have been running with the cover on and no oil.

Don
Syringa