I get all my teak from
http://www.buckwoodcraft.com/
good prices I think, fast delivery and easy to work with

Alan
— On Fri, 1/16/09, Rodd Leeds <> wrote:

If you are willing to spend time, you can use ipe (ee-pay) which is very hard and dense. You will have to drill all fastener holes and it is hard on planer blades but is very weather resistant and very strong. Failing that, you could use 1/2″ marine plywood with teak veneer and epoxy coat it before varnishing.

I would probably use HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) or UDPE (Ultrahigh Density…) which are both available inexpensively at plastic supply places – they are off white and will yellow in sunlight eventually but will not rot, chip, crack, warp, check or anything else for about a million years. They are easily machineable, but will require you use nuts and washers where you attach the piano hinge.

That's all the suggestions I have.

Bob

On Fri, Jan 16, 2009 at 8:04 AM, alan P < ([email][/email])> wrote:

If the door doesn’t take any great stress and is only for prevention of water intrusion, you might think of buying an access hatch from West. I purchased one for installation in the shower and it is sturdy with a watertight seal around it. Various sizes are available. Easy installation!

Dan Kalinowski
S/V Lady Leanne (#135)
Honolulu

Rodd,

A cheap, easy and durable fix would be ordinary exterior plywood cut to size, double-coated with liquid (West) epoxy, and then light-sanded and painted. It’ll probably outlast the boat. Alternatively, you could stain the wood before putting on the epoxy, and then apply UV varnish instead of paint. But paint is lower maintenance.

Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Rodd, where are you located?
the only ‘cheap’ source for starboard I know of is in seattle and you have to go there personally.
Boeing has an outlet store for surplus airplane stuff. The place is incredible, you could literally make that door out of titanium if you wanted to! 🙂
Starboard is like $1 a pound 🙂

On 1/16/09 5:26 AM, Robert Fine wrote :

Rodd
If you buy teak stock from a lumber yard rather than the boat store, its not very expensive. You need a good table saw to cut it into boards because it comes rough cut. I think I paid about $12/board foot last fall for lumber that was roughly 2×6 6′ long. You only need a couple of board feet for what you’re doing. You could also use teak colored trex decking cut to size if you glue it over a pressure treated piece of plywood.

Is the door flat or does it have a curve to it?

Rich

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Rodd,

A cheap, easy and durable fix would be ordinary exterior plywood cut to size, double-coated with liquid (West) epoxy, and then light-sanded and painted. It’ll probably outlast the boat. Alternatively, you could stain the wood before putting on the epoxy, and then apply UV varnish instead of paint. But paint is lower maintenance.

Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Really? My door is trapezoidal and holds on with wood 'L's (Lift and pull). I like the hinge idea much better.

On Fri, Jan 16, 2009 at 1:03 PM, Rodd Leeds < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Thanks all for great suggestions!

Aaron, unfortunately I'm on the East coast, but that outlet sounds great!

Rich- The door is rectangular and lies flat, closing with a piano hinge on one side and a lock hasp on the other.

Rodd

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Rodd,
If its flat, you have a lot of options. I’m guessing that this isn’t a prized yacht and you’re just looking for something to cover the hole that doesn’t look bad. The earlier suggestion to encapsulate a piece of exterior plywood in epoxy is probably a good one. You might optionally put on a layer of fiberglass cloth too. This won’t be particularly attractive however unless you do something with the top of it. I might suggest laying in a piece of rubber nonskid over the top. The problem is that you might find it difficult to purchase a small piece and a small quantity of adhesive. You could try painting the top with nonskid paint. This would hide the cloth weave and any brushstrokes from the epoxy.

Rich

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

I didn’t realize this “rotted out door to a bow/anchor locker” is horizontal, to be walked upon. In that case, of course a final non-skid surfacing would be in order – sand in the paint, strips of non-skid tape, a scrap of rubberized non-skid or coat of KiwiGrip paint if someone in the yard is doing their decks with one of those… Whatever’s available and looks good to you.

Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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