Forums › General Discussion › Re: oil-canning

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    • #67334
      RichCarter
      Participant

      To all readers,
      I think its worth repeating my recommendation that follows. If your plans don’t include blue-water passages, I strongly suggest that you inspect and even reinforce the attachment between the V-berth shelves and the forward bulkhead. This shelf is structural. If it breaks free from the hull, the remaining bulkheads and v-berth itself will be next. The weak point in this shelf is the forward attachment. I observed mine start to fail at this point and over the period of a few hours damage extended to include the forward bulkhead and the v-berth itself. The fasteners used by Pearson aren’t very big. As I recall, there were just a few brass screws attaching the shelf in my boat. If you can keep the shelf from beginning to separate, you can probably avoid damage altogether. Its also a pretty easy and cheap fix.

      If you plan to take your boat offshore, I recommend doing more than just beefing up these fasteners.

      Rich


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    • #71623
      quent
      Participant

      I agree with Rich, but I’d take it a step further. Clairebuoyant was rode hard and put away wet long before we got her. These shelves were broken away not only against the forward bulkhead, but also the longitudinal tabbing as well.
      At the v-berth integral water tank and below, things seem pretty beefy, but there was at least one instance of structural damage on the lower sides just aft of the water tank that I heard about. IMHO, any boat with a bow thruster in this location ought to keep a close watch on this location.
      NPYOA once had a letter on the 424 oil canning issue addressed by Bill Shaw. Perhaps someone with better archives than me can find it. I think he suggested a reenforcement of several layers of mat and woven roving and 1/4″ of balsa core in the middle for stiffness. We did this, but have not really tested it.
      The tabbing along the galley shelves was also broken away, but this might have been storm damage.
      Quent
      Clairebuoyant, #132

    • #71624
      Hull152_Patrick
      Spectator

      I definitely plan to beef up my v-berth hull and then put in the ash strips. I not only had the tabbing which needed to be redone on in the v-berth but also on the starboard settee in the salon as well. That’s more of a function of poor bond between fiberglass and wood though. I did notice when cleaning my water tanks on the same side that I have a small section internal to the tank that is free as well. It doesn’t leak and I’m not 100% sure who I’d even get in ther to repair or if its warranted. This is probably building up to be enough glass work that it would be better to just have someone else do it.

      Repost on the v-berth suggestion from Bill Shaw:

      Here’s the reply you were looking for:
      http://www.pearsoncurrent.com/tpcarchive/Vol5/tpc-5-2.htm

      I have a small yacht maintenance business in Gulfport, MS and have the privilege of taking care of three P424s. I believe all three owners are members of your Association. One of the owners wants us to beef up the v-berth to prevent oil canning. I’ve read several articles in The Current on this problem, but I am not sure if I should lay some thicker glass on the inside of the hull or seek another solution. I know the shelves and v-berth need reinforcing where they come in contact with the hull. It seems to me that the hull is very thin under the shelf down to the v-berth. Any ideas that you might have would be most helpful.

      — Brian Welch

      I would recommend the following between the underside of the shelf and the top of the V-berth:
      1. Sand the inside of the hull to remove any wax, glue, etc.
      2. Apply one layer of 1.5 oz. mat in this area. Catalyze the resin for a slow cure to keep it cool to prevent print through.
      3. Before the mat cures, wet the panel of 3/8″ thick balsa with resin that will go against the hull and apply pressure to the balsa for a good bond. Note that you should taper all 4 edges of the balsa over a width of 2″.)
      4. After this lay up has cured, apply one layer of 1.5 oz. mat and over this one layer of 1.8 oz. woven roving. This should stiffen the area considerably.

      -p



      s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
      Patrick’s Sailing Blog | http://www.shipsrecord.com/blogs/patrick

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      Owners no more...
      Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

    • #71628
      RichCarter
      Participant

      p { margin: 0; }
      As I mentioned earlier, a Pearson 53 that made a Bermuda crossing just after we did was abandoned because all the interior bulkheads broke free. The boat was apparently not taking on water, but the crew panicked when the boat started coming apart. Conditions that this boat saw were extreme. I read about their ordeal after I got back from my trip. I did a web search, but can’t seem to find any more details.

      One of the issues is the secondary bonds that are made during construction. I don’t know a lot about the subject, but I can attest to the weakness of these bonds. As an example, I was able to pull the battery box out of the aft lazarette with a crow-bar with little difficulty. I first cut out what I could reach with a circular saw, then I started yanking at what was left with a crowbar. The stuff pulled free without damage to the hull.

      When I hired a glass-man in Bermuda to fix my V-berth, he spent hours grinding down the surface of the hull and bulkheads where he applied the new glass. I wonder if Pearson didn’t do that properly when glassing in the interior stuff.

      Rich


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    • #71636
      Anonymous

      Has anybody removed the shelf completely? And done what?

      Mine is completely detached on both sides, nice to hear that it is structurally important. :O

      On 2/4/09 6:23 AM, wrote :

      Quote:
      To all readers,
      I think its worth repeating my recommendation that follows. If your plans don’t include blue-water passages, I strongly suggest that you inspect and even reinforce the attachment between the V-berth shelves and the forward bulkhead. This shelf is structural. If it breaks free from the hull, the remaining bulkheads and v-berth itself will be next. The weak point in this shelf is the forward attachment. I observed mine start to fail at this point and over the period of a few hours damage extended to include the forward bulkhead and the v-berth itself. The fasteners used by Pearson aren’t very big. As I recall, there were just a few brass screws attaching the shelf in my boat. If you can keep the shelf from beginning to separate, you can probably avoid damage altogether. Its also a pretty easy and cheap fix.

      If you plan to take your boat offshore, I recommend doing more than just beefing up these fasteners.

      Rich


      Original Message


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