- This topic has 3 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 17 years, 7 months ago by
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Aloha to All
i am checking to see if it is neccessary to caulk the cap rail where it meets the bullworks. There are sections where the cap rail has raised a bit (very small amount) which will allow water to get under the rail. I am thinking that the edge where the cap rail meets the bullworks should have a caulking bead of 5200 along the lenght to stop water infiltration.
I am redoing my cap rails and noticed that it currently does not have any signs of sealant along this edge (along the rails and around the cock pit) . it can not be good to allow water to sit under the rails????
please reply,
jb
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JB,
Sure, there’s no harm in bedding it after it has had a good long period of dry-out time so you don’t trap moisture in there. However, I’d advise against using 5200 for this. You don’t need any kind of adhesion in this case, just sealant. If you ever do want to remove the cap rail in the future, the 5200 will be a bear to deal with. Something like BoatLife’s Life Caulk would be more appropriate.
Tor
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I agree with Bob & Tor, no harm in applying a sealant to those seams. Really boring when we all agree. Just to be a little of a contrarian, are you seeing any moisture leaking into the lockers under the deck? That is where water will end up if it gets under the cap rail, usually leaking through the self-tapping screws that were used to clamp the deck flange.
I had a persistent leak in the locker behind the sink in the forward cabin. I assumed it was from the cap rail seam or a few of the bungs that had come loose from the screws that hold the cap rail in place. Turns out the leak was from the bow pulpit. When I removed the pulpit a few years ago to run wiring for a bi-color running light I found no sealant at all under the pulpit stanchions. I'm not sure if this was an oversight by Pearson or the PO. There was no sign that any sealant had ever been applied to stanchion bases. After I sealed those bases the leak in the locker disappeared (not before the mildew had destroyed the foam/vinyl covering inside the locker).
So maybe if you don't have any leaks in those lockers this is one problem that doesn't need a fix.
John
On Wed, Mar 11, 2009 at 9:01 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
I concur with Tor – a good sealant without the adhesive would be best. If you don't like Life Caulk, there is a good product from SikaFlex.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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