Adam
I’m not sure I understand what you are referring to. Perhaps you mean the
rubber gaskets under the deck fittings. As I recall, the stanchions and
pulpits on my boat were bedded with rubber gaskets by Pearson. The rubber
was redish in color and a soft material. I’ve looked for it at various
times but am unable to find it.

Regards
Rich

Sheet rubber is very easy to find – either McMaster-Carr or Grainger.  You can use red rubber which is fairly immune to UV.  But better is to rebed with a good bedding compound like 3M 4000 UV or Life Caulk.  Making gaskets is a pain in the butt, especially in rubber.  I used 3/8″ x 3/8″ to replace the gaskets in the aluminum opening portlights.  Bomar no longer makes the gasket material for them.

Bob

On Sun, Mar 15, 2009 at 1:44 PM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Adam:

I asked that know-it-all, Mr Google, and he came up with the following answer from our “good” friends at Rigrite:

http://www.rigrite.com/Hardware/Stanchions_&_Bases/Stanchion_Bases_SS.html#Stanchion%20Base%20Gaskets

However, I see that these are black. My original ones are white as well. At least black is easier to keep clean 🙂

Paul

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But as we all know, dealing with RigRite is problematic at best. There are other sources, I'm sure, and a good bedding compound installed correctly will also do the job.

Bob

On Sun, Mar 15, 2009 at 3:03 PM, Paul Lefebvre < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Adam:

I asked that know-it-all, Mr Google, and he came up with the following answer from our “good” friends at Rigrite:

http://www.rigrite.com/Hardware/Stanchions_&_Bases/Stanchion_Bases_SS.html#Stanchion%20Base%20Gaskets

However, I see that these are black. My original ones are white as well. At least black is easier to keep clean 🙂

Paul

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

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a good bedding compound installed correctly will also do the job.

So will rope caulk.

Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Same red rubber gasket material is available in bulk at my local ACE
hardware. (save the shipping costs). They keep is near the bulk hose
at my store.

Robert Fine wrote:

Pete
Are you sure it’s the same? The stuff in our hardware store is a hard
rubber; not the same material.

Rich

Could not be 100% certain. My ACE though has a few different grades and
thicknesses.

Rich Carter wrote:

Hey Adam, what did you end up using?

-p

Tor: I assume you meant butylrope caulk. I’ve heard great things about this stuff, but can’t find it. Where did you get it?

Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu

Dan,

The stuff I use is called Rope Caulk when purchased under Ace Hardware’s
brand name. I’ll bet Home Depot sells it, but can’t say whether they call it
rope caulk. Look among the window seal products. Most recently I bought some
packaged as Cord Weatherstip and manufactured by M-D Building Products
(http://www.mdteam.com). On the box it says “Not designed for marine use or for
constant water immersion.”

I have never used rope caulk below the waterline and wouldn’t recommend it.
Wherever I’ve used it on deck – re-bedding the coachhouse brow strip,
installing a new porthole, re-sealing a stanchion base, mounting the
electric windlass on the foredeck, etc. – it has kept the water out 100% for
up to 3 years so far and still seems good as new.

Rope caulk is great to work with, so much easier (and cheaper!) than the
“marine” semi-liquids in a tube like Life Caulk & 4200. (I refuse to use
silicone seal at all.) Here’s a neat trick I learned from another cruiser:
If you’re bedding two smooth, flush surfaces you may squeeze so much of the
caulking out when tightening the bolts that there’s too little left in
between for adequate waterproofing. This guy said he lays a strand of
ordinary string in with the bedding to act as a spacer. Obviously you’d keep
the string hidden from the weather edge of the seal. Seems like a good idea.
Wish I’d known about it a few years ago.

I don’t know whether rope caulk is the same as butylrope, but would be
interested to hear if you find out – in case butylrope is somehow better.
Someone on the SSCA discussion board will probably know. Tech support at
http://www.mdteam.com will, for sure.

Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Hey Tor,

I am curious to know why you don’t like silicone? I have used it on my stanchion
bases successfully. Easy to use and easy to buy.

regards,
Joe,

________________________________
<.. snip>

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Dan,
I used Tor’s rope caulk solution when I installed track on the cabin trunk
for my staysail. After a year no leaks and it was much easier to use than
the tube stuff.

http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewSolentStayFinish.html#Installing_Sheet_Track

On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 9:22 AM, Joseph Steiner <> wrote:

Butyl Rope is apparently used for sealing concrete pipes and septic
tanks. Here are a few links:

http://www.multiseal-usa.com/butyltite.html

http://www.press-seal.com/products/product.php?p_id=23&option_id=1

Perhaps a good plumbing supply would have it.

Pete

On 7/12/2010 6:57 AM, Silver Heels wrote:

Joe,

Sure, silicone seal is easy to use and easy to buy, but just wait ’til you
want to remove it after it has fully cured. Damn near impossible. On the
other hand, years after rope caulk is applied it comes off instantly with a
dull putty knife – and then you could even re-use it!

Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Ohh..I C , but don’t you want something that is tough?  There is a direct
relation between “curing” and toughness, therefore durability. If ever you do
need to remove, some benzene as a solvent ( careful, very flammable ) will do
the trick.

Joe,

________________________________
<.. snip>

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Aha! I’ve seen that stuff but didn’t know what it was. Thanks, Pete. It may
very well be a better sealant than rope caulk because it’s made for a
tougher application. Only questions are (1) is it available in white, and
(2) where to buy it.

Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

and carcinogenic. Linked to rare cancers of the blood (bone marrow and
spleen) which my father died from.

On 7/12/2010 8:00 AM, Joseph Steiner wrote:

Tough is good in some applications, but when sealant is sandwiched in
between bolted surfaces it may not need to be particularly tough, just
waterproof. I’ve never tried benzene to dissolve old silicone seal. Am
delighted to learn that it will!

Thanks,

Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Of course wear nitrile rubber gloves and use in well ventilated areas..yes, it
is also carcinogenic in large exposures.

________________________________
<.. snip>

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Silicone doesn’t hold up when exposed to teak-cleaners. If you clean your toe-rail using a cleaning solution, its bound to get on the deck and around the stanchion bases. Pearson used silicone sealant as a bedding compound under my teak. That’s likely why I had leaks around my main-cabin hatch and under the eyebrows though you can’t expect anything to hold up for as long as 30 years.

I’ve been using a product that I purchased to reseal the roof on my camper. I had a few tubes left over after recaulking the roof. Its probably the same stuff as rope-caulk. It never seems to harden though the surface will dry and seems to last a very long time. I’ve been using it around my chainplates with good success.

Rich

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With the advent of new and powerful adhesive/sealants we tend to think along
the lines of using the stuff as bedding compound to help keep whatever we’re
bedding in place.

Tor’s rope caulk is, like Dolphinite (used by Sabre on all their boats), a
sealant. The strength of the attachment is from the mechanical fasteners
not the goop you put between.

Silicone is a compressive sealant – it’s a terrible bedding compound for
several reasons, not the least of which is that if it isn’t compressed after
setting up it will leak – in fact, it will pull away microscopically from
the substrates like steel and glass and cause water to be sucked in by
capillary action. It only makes things worse.

If you want to bond and bed, use the appropriate adhesive/sealant. 3M 5200
is great if you really don’t think you’ll be removing a thing. 4000UV for
things you may want to remove. But as I said, Dolphinite and rope caulk are
all you need for almost all applications as long as there’s no flexing.

Like Tor, I’ve pulled 20 year old fittings bedded with Dolphinite that don’t
leak and are cleaned up with mineral spirits.

As an aside, I have a friend that makes his bottom paint buy dissolving a
tube of silicone in xylene and mixes that with a gallon of cheap bottom
paint. His boat comes out at the end of the season clean as a whistle.

Downside? He can’t use normal paint anymore unless soda blasts the bottom.

My two cents.

Oh, yes, here’s something silicone is good for – put a dab on the ends of
the cotter pins through the clevis pins on the rigging. Keeps the sharp
ends from snagging and the pins from falling out or wobbling.

Bob

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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