Hi Rich,

My shower sump pump is actually under the galley sink – there is no sump, except of course, the shower itself.  That said, I don't know if you have dual (hot and cold) faucets or a single operating one.  If it's the original dual, the company is still in business and still produces that particular setup, with newer handles, but charges a gadzillion dollars for it.  The reason is that the holes are not standard 4″ centers.  Does that matter?  Not to me, it didn't, as I own a hole saw of the appropriate size and made them 4″ centers.  Then I installed a similar yet ever so much cheaper shower thing from Home Depot.

What I'd like to do is install a constant temperature fitting because I'm tired of either burning myself or sending myself into hypothermia.  If you want to go that route, just make sure the cover plate is big enough.

Also:

I cut a 5″ round access plate hatch below the seat.  You can't reach anything under there from the hatch and it is where John S. and I lost the cutout when we put our hatches in.  There is enough room below the seat for a low pump.

Bob

On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 2:23 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I bought an access hatch on clearance for the unused area outboard of the shower about 20 years ago.  The thing has been sitting in my shed since then.  Like so many other projects, if its not broken it doesn't get fixed.  There was nothing wrong with the shower, so it stayed on the to-do list until last weekend.  The shower sump motor failed last fall.  The thing was mounted in the bilge.  It doesn't like the damp air down there and I've had problems with the pump for a few years now.  I pulled the pump again this winter and fixed the motor (again).  Rather than put the darn thing back in the bilge, I decided to mount it behind the shower in that unused space.  I pulled the 11″x13″ hatch from the shed.  I took a circular saw and a sawsall and cut the hole in the shower wall.  There's a huge amount of space behind there.  Its not as deep as the forward hanging locker.  Its more than half that deep and about the same width.  If you want to get an idea of the size, open the forward hanging locker and take a look.  I plan to put a lower shelf in for the pump body and two more shelves for towels or whatever.  Pictures will follow.

While I have my head in there, its a good time to replace the shower faucet.  Like everybody else, Pearson used a cheap plastic faucet.  While I like the shutoff valve on the head, I don't like the plastic vavle. The surface is pitted.  Has anyone found a suitable replacement that is cost effective?

Rich

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Rich,
RE: The shower faucet.

I, and several others, just went to Lowes/Home Depot and picked up a single-level shower mixer just like most of have (had in my case) in our home showers.  It's a lot more convenient to be able to quickly set the mixer for the correct water temperature.

John
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeHead.htm

On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 2:42 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Hi Rich,

My shower sump pump is actually under the galley sink – there is no sump, except of course, the shower itself.  That said, I don't know if you have dual (hot and cold) faucets or a single operating one.  If it's the original dual, the company is still in business and still produces that particular setup, with newer handles, but charges a gadzillion dollars for it.  The reason is that the holes are not standard 4″ centers.  Does that matter?  Not to me, it didn't, as I own a hole saw of the appropriate size and made them 4″ centers.  Then I installed a similar yet ever so much cheaper shower thing from Home Depot.

What I'd like to do is install a constant temperature fitting because I'm tired of either burning myself or sending myself into hypothermia.  If you want to go that route, just make sure the cover plate is big enough.

Also:

I cut a 5″ round access plate hatch below the seat.  You can't reach anything under there from the hatch and it is where John S. and I lost the cutout when we put our hatches in.  There is enough room below the seat for a low pump.

Bob

On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 2:23 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I bought an access hatch on clearance for the unused area outboard of the shower about 20 years ago.  The thing has been sitting in my shed since then.  Like so many other projects, if its not broken it doesn't get fixed.  There was nothing wrong with the shower, so it stayed on the to-do list until last weekend.  The shower sump motor failed last fall.  The thing was mounted in the bilge.  It doesn't like the damp air down there and I've had problems with the pump for a few years now.  I pulled the pump again this winter and fixed the motor (again).  Rather than put the darn thing back in the bilge, I decided to mount it behind the shower in that unused space.  I pulled the 11″x13″ hatch from the shed.  I took a circular saw and a sawsall and cut the hole in the shower wall.  There's a huge amount of space behind there.  Its not as deep as the forward hanging locker.  Its more than half that deep and about the same width.  If you want to get an idea of the size, open the forward hanging locker and take a look.  I plan to put a lower shelf in for the pump body and two more shelves for towels or whatever.  Pictures will follow.

While I have my head in there, its a good time to replace the shower faucet.  Like everybody else, Pearson used a cheap plastic faucet.  While I like the shutoff valve on the head, I don't like the plastic vavle. The surface is pitted.  Has anyone found a suitable replacement that is cost effective?

Rich

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Rich

Many of the aftermarket shower heads have a shut-off on them. I have one on my home shower. I practice conservation for the chance that I may someday apply it to the cruising lifestyle.

Linus

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Rich,
Obviously you are starting from different fixture than I did.  What I inherited from the PO was a standard Tempo galley faucet mounted in the shower wall.  It was mounted on a piece of Teak so I assume it was installed by a PO and not what Pearson installed.

I'm not sure what sort of shut-off valve you have on your faucet, but the single lever mixer works well in that you can turn it on and off without changing the mixer setting.  I also have a shut-off valve on the shower head, but I only use it when I'm holding the shower head in my hand. 

John

On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 4:47 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:

At the very least, there is a special fixture you can purchase that goes between the shower hose and shower head with a button on it that you can shut the water off with.

Bob

On Mon, Mar 16, 2009 at 5:34 PM, John Stevenson < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I kept the old shower head but put in a single handle control. Much
better temperature control and comes on at the same temperature every time.

wrote:

The original assembly on my boat broke where the hose to the shower head attaches. I went to several plumbing houses before one sent me to the RV supply place. When I held up the small plastic union the man behind the counter knew exactly what it was and sold me the replacement. I thought it said marine on it some where when he told me the price. Found my hatch a week ago now I’ve got another project. I will be glad to get rid of the original equipment and gain storage space.

Linus

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Bob,

I bought one of those inline button fixtures at Home Depot. It doesn’t quite shut off the water flow. The lever on my (original?) shower nozzle works better than that fixture. Occasional lubrication helps.

Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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