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Arrgh! The last owner redid the boottop stripe to make it look 'prettier'. Well, he lowered it about 3″ center ship and 8″ bow and stern resulting in the stupid thing being in the water all the time. Well done, I say!
So I'm trying to put it back to the way it should be and I have some conflicting information etched into the hull. It looks as if the bottom paint came up to a mark, then there was 2″ of hull, and finally about 2″ of boottop stripe above that. Or, if I'm wrong, then the bottom paint came up to the mark, and the rest was a rather wide boottop stripe.
Anyone have any insight into the actual striping situation?
Thanks!
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Bob,
I think my boot-stripe is still pretty close to the original. This is a 2″ or less of unpainted hull between the top of the bottom paint and the boot stripe.
Go about 1/2 down this page to see.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgrade2003Haulout.htmOn Wed, May 6, 2009 at 6:01 PM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Arrgh! The last owner redid the boottop stripe to make it look 'prettier'. Well, he lowered it about 3″ center ship and 8″ bow and stern resulting in the stupid thing being in the water all the time. Well done, I say!
So I'm trying to put it back to the way it should be and I have some conflicting information etched into the hull. It looks as if the bottom paint came up to a mark, then there was 2″ of hull, and finally about 2″ of boottop stripe above that. Or, if I'm wrong, then the bottom paint came up to the mark, and the rest was a rather wide boottop stripe.
Anyone have any insight into the actual striping situation?
Thanks!
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comPost generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Pictures….
http://picasaweb.google.com/dhjppn/FallBoatWork
http://picasaweb.google.com/dhjppn/SpringBoatStuff– pat
On 5/6/09 5:01 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Arrgh! The last owner redid the boottop stripe to make it look
‘prettier’. Well, he lowered it about 3″ center ship and 8″ bow and
stern resulting in the stupid thing being in the water all the time.
Well done, I say!So I’m trying to put it back to the way it should be and I have some
conflicting information etched into the hull. It looks as if the
bottom paint came up to a mark, then there was 2″ of hull, and finally
about 2″ of boottop stripe above that. Or, if I’m wrong, then the
bottom paint came up to the mark, and the rest was a rather wide
boottop stripe.Anyone have any insight into the actual striping situation?
Thanks!
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8
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Hi Pat,
That's what I thought – how wide is the white part?
Thanks,
Bob
On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 7:19 PM, pat noordsij < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Pictures…. http://picasaweb.google.com/dhjppn/FallBoatWork
http://picasaweb.google.com/dhjppn/SpringBoatStuff– pat
On 5/6/09 5:01 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Arrgh! The last owner redid the boottop stripe to make it look 'prettier'. Well, he lowered it about 3″ center ship and 8″ bow and stern resulting in the stupid thing being in the water all the time. Well done, I say!
So I'm trying to put it back to the way it should be and I have some conflicting information etched into the hull. It looks as if the bottom paint came up to a mark, then there was 2″ of hull, and finally about 2″ of boottop stripe above that. Or, if I'm wrong, then the bottom paint came up to the mark, and the rest was a rather wide boottop stripe.
Anyone have any insight into the actual striping situation?
Thanks!
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Hmm. Dave says 2 in. I say 2.5. Elize agrees with dave. So there
are the votes around the table. Unfortunately the boat is way far
away.– pat.
On 5/6/09, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Hi Pat,
That’s what I thought – how wide is the white part?
Thanks,
Bob
On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 7:19 PM, pat noordsij <> wrote:
Pictures…. http://picasaweb.google.com/dhjppn/FallBoatWork
http://picasaweb.google.com/dhjppn/SpringBoatStuff– pat
On 5/6/09 5:01 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Arrgh! The last owner redid the boottop stripe to make it look
‘prettier’. Well, he lowered it about 3″ center ship and 8″ bow and
stern
resulting in the stupid thing being in the water all the time. Well
done, I
say!So I’m trying to put it back to the way it should be and I have some
conflicting information etched into the hull. It looks as if the bottom
paint came up to a mark, then there was 2″ of hull, and finally about 2″
of
boottop stripe above that. Or, if I’m wrong, then the bottom paint came
up
to the mark, and the rest was a rather wide boottop stripe.Anyone have any insight into the actual striping situation?
Thanks!
Bob
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8
To unsubscribe, e-mail:
For additional commands, e-mail:—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8—
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The white part on my boat is about 1.5. It is so close to the water that it
is very difficult to keep it clean. I am considering eliminating it
altogether by raising the bottom paint to the bottom of the boot-top.
Phil Fontaine
Aurora
Original Message
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I know that white stripe looks nice between the bottom paint and the boot strip but…. when you get filthy harbour water on that white strip it never gets clean. I’ve always bottom painted up to the boot stripe. The PO had already done this for me on this boat……
alan— On Wed, 5/6/09, pat noordsij <> wrote:
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Some PO did away with the white strip in between the antifouling and the boot stripe on my boat, and that seems sensible to me. Bare gel coat so near the waterline is bound to be dirty most of the time. Now I’m thinking of eliminating the boot stripe altogether, bringing the bottom paint up over it. Has anyone done that? Got photos?
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Ok, thanks everyone for the input! Here's what I'm going to do:
I'm going to paint the whole area within the moulded in lines blue. Then I'm going to bring the bottom paint up to that. Then I'm going to get a couple of rolls of 1″ boottop tape and run it along the bottom edge of the stripe. Why tape? Because if I don't like it I can remove it without destroying the stripe, or if I want it in a different place I don't have to repaint the whole mess. The tape is resistant to scum and it is easy to keep clean.
Bob
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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Bob,
Do not get the tape! The Indulgence has tape and it has been comming off in bits in pieces over the last three years. Unfortunately it leaves the glue behind. I have to remove the glue residue and repaint every year…but not enough to get the remaining tape up. So the process repeats year after year.
Unfortunately, it is bumpy and really looks bad up close. I can’t state strongly enough…the tape is a terrible idea.
John Sommer
Indulgence #179— On Thu, 5/7/09, Robert Fine <> wrote:
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Hi John,
I've had experience with the tape before. That's why I chose the idea. There are several things you can do to make the tape more successful and easier to remove. First, make sure the painted surface is as smooth as you can make it. That in itself is a whole other subject. Then, when the paint is dry, wash and wax it with a good paste wax (more on that later). Make sure it's buffed out and really smooth. Apply the tape slowly and rub bubbles out as they occur. If you have to overlap, make sure the overlap is the forwardmost tape. That way ships motion tends not to peel it off. It's really important to get a good adhesion across the tape.
Everyone has different experiences with the stuff. I found that when the tape was looking ratty, it was time to haul and paint the boat anyway.
Now, for the wax.
My friend, Herb, who is a bit of an experimentalist, found that taking a jar of Royal creme wax and adding Penetrol and mixing thoroughly would produce a cleaner wax that penetrated the gelcoat (especially older, porous gelcoat) and would produce a really slick finish that lasts a whole season! The advantage to adding the Penetrol is that the wax takes longer to dry meaning you can do patches bigger than a square foot at a time – you can actually apply it to half a side at a time before buffing even on a hot sunny day. The disadvantage is that you need to use an electric buffer unless you've been doing 'wax on-wax off' for a long time and have arms like a gorilla. Another disadvantage is that you have to be careful with newly painted surfaces as the Penetrol will smear them if you are too exuberant with your application.
Anyway, after applying the tape, I wax the stripe again and then go sailing. Which is the point of the whole drill anyway. 🙂
Bob
On Thu, May 7, 2009 at 8:55 AM, John Sommer < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob,Do not get the tape! The Indulgence has tape and it has been comming off in bits in pieces over the last three years. Unfortunately it leaves the glue behind. I have to remove the glue residue and repaint every year…but not enough to get the remaining tape up. So the process repeats year after year.
Unfortunately, it is bumpy and really looks bad up close. I can't state strongly enough…the tape is a terrible idea.
John Sommer
Indulgence #179— On Thu, 5/7/09, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
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Here’s what I do for vinyl boat lettering. I see no reason this wouldn’t work for bootstripe tape. For removal, heat the vinyl with a heat-gun to soften the adhesive.
- Create a Liquid Soapy Water Mixture: Mix 1 drop (about 1/2 teaspoon) of dish soap with 32 oz. of water. Mix in a spray bottle.
- Prepare mix before you begin application.
- * Spray a liberal amount of soap & water mixture on the surface to which you are applying the vinyl AND the adhesive side of the vinyl – first remove the paper backing.
- ** Squeegee out the water. Allow the water to completely dry before removing the transfer tape.
Regards
Rich
BackSheep #47
Original Message
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Hi Rich,
That should work – the striping tape doesn't have a transfer layer, though. Other than that, it's a great idea. Usually what I do is use masking tape to make the lower (or upper) tape boundary. This allows me to check the straightness and so forth of the line for aesthetics. Then I apply the tape using the masking tape border as a guide, working a small section at a time. When I get to one end of the boat or another, I'm done.
Thanks!
Bob
On Thu, May 7, 2009 at 9:38 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Here's what I do for vinyl boat lettering. I see no reason this wouldn't work for bootstripe tape. For removal, heat the vinyl with a heat-gun to soften the adhesive.- Create a Liquid Soapy Water Mixture: Mix 1 drop (about 1/2 teaspoon) of dish soap with 32 oz. of water. Mix in a spray bottle.
- Prepare mix before you begin application.
- * Spray a liberal amount of soap & water mixture on the surface to which you are applying the vinyl AND the adhesive side of the vinyl – first remove the paper backing.
- ** Squeegee out the water. Allow the water to completely dry before removing the transfer tape.
Regards
Rich
BackSheep #47
Original Message
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Hello Everybody,
What I did on Xanadu was move the waterline up by 4″. This helps to keep the white area between the anti-fouling and the boot stripe relatively clear of any harbour grunge. I used 1 1/2″ masking tape for the white area. The waterlines are too low in the original position after you get all of your gear and belongings aboard, especially at the stern.
Jack
Xanadu IV
On Thu, May 7, 2009 at 10:08 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hi Rich,That should work – the striping tape doesn't have a transfer layer, though. Other than that, it's a great idea. Usually what I do is use masking tape to make the lower (or upper) tape boundary. This allows me to check the straightness and so forth of the line for aesthetics. Then I apply the tape using the masking tape border as a guide, working a small section at a time. When I get to one end of the boat or another, I'm done.
Thanks!
Bob
On Thu, May 7, 2009 at 9:38 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Here's what I do for vinyl boat lettering. I see no reason this wouldn't work for bootstripe tape. For removal, heat the vinyl with a heat-gun to soften the adhesive.- Create a Liquid Soapy Water Mixture: Mix 1 drop (about 1/2 teaspoon) of dish soap with 32 oz. of water. Mix in a spray bottle.
- Prepare mix before you begin application.
- * Spray a liberal amount of soap & water mixture on the surface to which you are applying the vinyl AND the adhesive side of the vinyl – first remove the paper backing.
- ** Squeegee out the water. Allow the water to completely dry before removing the transfer tape.
Regards
Rich
BackSheep #47
Original Message
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