You should probably use lithium grease as it’s waterproof. The winch
grease doesn’t stand up well in that environment. West Marine has it
as trailer bearing grease. You can also use Teflon pump grease if you
can find it.

Bob

On 7/19/09, Patrick Walters <> wrote:

Can I use any ole grease on my raw water pump impeller? I searched here and
Cruiser Forum and didn’t find any info. I have some Lewmar winch grease
handy so I thought I’s use that. It’s labeled as a calcium sulphonate
grease, which means nothing to me.

Thanks,
-p

---

s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 |
http://www.DeepPlaya.com<http://www.deepplaya.com/>

—
Sent from my mobile device

Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

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I’ve used vaseline in a pinch (hold your witty asides). I also cut the gasket from a paper chart impregnated with sealant (owch. damn).

But that was when I was stuck in Virginia.

-Adam Silverstein, iPhone(It’s all unintentional)

On Jul 19, 2009, at 12:48 PM, Patrick Walters < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Can I use any ole grease on my raw water pump impeller? I searched here and Cruiser Forum and didn’t find any info. I have some Lewmar winch grease handy so I thought I’s use that. It’s labeled as a calcium sulphonate grease, which means nothing to me.

Thanks,
-p

---

s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

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Pat,

I’ve often heard it said that petroleum-based grease will deteriorate rubber. When I was cleaning up my Groco seacocks a couple of years ago I asked a tech guy at Groco about that, since the core plug of the seacock is rubber and I wanted to lubricate it. He agreed about the danger of petroleum-based goop on rubber and recommended Dow Corning “111” (as in one-eleven) Valve Lubricant and Sealant. It took some searching to find the stuff, but I ultimately bought a BIG tube of it for under $10. Since then that is what I’ve put on all rubber parts I want to grease.

Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Pat,
I think most pump manufacturer recommend petroleum jelly (I think that is Vaseline) or just soap.  The purpose of the lubricant is just to keep the impeller supple until you start the engine and the impeller sucks water through the system.  The lubricant is not expected to remain in the impellar housing after the the initial run. I think these specifications assume you will start the engine within a short time of installing the impellar and that will wash the lubricant out of the pump.

On Sun, Jul 19, 2009 at 9:10 PM, Tor <> wrote:

Pat,

If the Starbrite stuff doesn’t work out, get some “Dow 111”. It’s inexpensive and one tube will last you most of a lifetime. I was unable to find it in hardware stores. As I recall, I Googled and then telephoned the manufacturer, Dow Corning, and asked them where I could purchase “Dow 111” locally. They gave me the names of a couple of retailers, which I think were engine rebuild shops and the like. I called one of them, bought a tube over the phone with a credit card, and they mailed it to me. Even with shipping it was under 10-bucks. Another thought: Since it’s marketed as a “valve lubricant and sealant,” maybe an auto parts store like NAPA might carry it or be able to order it in for you.

Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I’ve found that Globe impellers, the blue ones, hold up better than the Sherwood ones, and are a little less expensive. Defender and Hamilton both have them to fit the W-58’s rw pump.
Quent

Depcopump.com is a good source of products and information.

Here is an article from their site (dated 2000 and written by someone from Jabsco) relating to impeller pumps
http://www.depcopump.com/datasheets/pumpschool/PumpsAndSystemsArticle.pdf

I purchased an impeller puller from them. It is expensive but it really makes pulling the impeller very easy on me and the impeller..

Rick

On Mon, Jul 20, 2009 at 8:59 AM, quent < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I've found that Globe impellers, the blue ones, hold up better than the Sherwood ones, and are a little less expensive. Defender and Hamilton both have them to fit the W-58's rw pump.
Quent

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On Easy Reach, hull #206, the raw water pump is below the WL and self primes. I’ve never used grease. On tech suggested putting some dishwashing detergent on new blades to give them an initial bit of lubrication.

Norris Larson

— On Sun, 7/19/09, Robert Fine <> wrote:

Hi Norris. Hey folks, after reading his posts for five years or so, guess who was anchored 50 yards ahead of me last weekend in Three Mile? Norris! His lovely wife, daughter, son in law and gorgeous dog got to meet the likes of my woman, daughter, and friends. We are a great bunch if I do say so.

Hey Robert, I installed the Sunsei solar panel over my doghouse and the controller and, I gottta tell you, it was still blinking and charging long after I thought it would have stopped near sundown. I ran my adler barbour 24 x 7 over the weekend and well, never saw major degradation in battery charge (that doesn’t really make sense, 24-7 over the weekend, but you got the idea I think). I am tickled pink. I recommend it thoroughly. Simultaneously I had all my nav lights changed to the Hella LED’s, and changed all of my internal incandescent bulbs to LED’s. I am determined to have solid ice cream and no gen set or midnight engine runs. So far, so good.

Has anyone ever used a marina or town mooring in Key West for the winter? All experiences welcomed.

<.. snip>

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Beautiful!  I'm glad to hear that!  I think you'll find that you'll be able to run for days without the gen set or motor.  Just be careful.  You get so used to it that you forget to run the damn things.  As I said, I got 4-5 days with my old panel and expect great things from the new one.  I'd love to see a picture of your installation to see if I can add that Sunsei panel to my dog house as an additional panel.

Regards,

Bob

On Tue, Jul 28, 2009 at 12:25 PM, Thatcher A. Stone < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Pictures Coming

<.. snip>

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