Forums › General Discussion › Re: Waterline Blisters and Gell Coat Cracks

Viewing 3 reply threads
  • Author
    Posts
    • #67800
      Hull152_Patrick
      Spectator

      Did you cut and paste that out of my survey? It’s almost word for word what you wrote in there. ๐Ÿ˜‰

      The cracks in the gelcoat will probably improve with the polishing as Robert mentioned. I’ll do some before and after shots.

      I think I’m just going to live with the blisters unless they can do something for less than $1000.If I want to reapir them later I’ll hopefully be at a point where I have infinite time or in a place where the labor is so cheap it doesn’t matter.

      For what it’s worth I dont’ think the yard is trying to gouge me. They have been very helpful, and pointed out things I can do myself to save a buck or two. It’s hard though when it’s dark at 4:30pm and I’m working. Ah work, hate to do it, love the money. ๐Ÿ˜‰

      Thanks for all the tips
      -p

      —-
      s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

      From: “Syringa” <>
      Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 8:47 AM
      To:
      Subject: Re: Waterline Blisters and Gell Coat Cracks

      Small cosmetic blistering on the water line like this is not uncommon for vessels of this type and seems to be a design and age problem. They are not structurally significant. I donโ€™t believe you will be able to get the boat dry enough to do a good paint job this time of year in Seattle unless she is in a heated building.

      I donโ€™t much like to repaint the hull or top side as any chips, cracks, or abrasions stands out like a sore thumb. The Pearson has very thick gelcoat you should be able sand buff and wax the hull to look like new. Yes it will still have the crazing but in most cases it does not show up to bad.

      I hate to say this but watch out how much work (money) you put into a 30 year old boat. Right now yards are looking for work and will try to sell you anything they can. You may only get back ten cents on the dollar. And at the end of the day you still have a 30 year old boat.

      By properly repairing any blister (below the water line) over 1 inch in size, the vessel should have many more years of useful service. Routine maintenance like this should be scheduled about every two years. I just surveyed a 39 Westerly that had a full blister job in 2004 and itโ€™s starting to show new blisters. This is very common (Note: Epoxy or Vinylester bottom jobs are not recommended on most vessels as they seem to have a tendency to fail after a few years if they are not properly done and can cost tens of thousands of dollars, so proceed with caution if you ever decide to go this route.)

      Don Gardner
      S/V Syringa #124

      /)+/)+~=:)

      Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

      Owners no more...
      Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

    • #74379
      Hull152_Patrick
      Spectator

      Re-inforcing the v-berth is on the list and the room is taped and bagged off already. ๐Ÿ˜‰
      Bill Shaw’s instructions: http://www.deepplaya.com/wiki/Bow-Reinforcing.ashx

      Good call though… I’ll look around.

      Dawn has pulled the starboard portholes and is now cleaning up the mess. As always pics and more to come at the blog. You might want to check in on the flickr account if you want to see things before I get around to writing it up.

      -p
      —-
      s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

      From: “quent” <>
      Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 1:53 PM
      To:
      Subject: Re: Waterline Blisters and Gell Coat Cracks

      If you have significant cracking, gelcoat of deeper, esp. vertical cracks, take a good look at tabing on interior, bulkheads, shelves, etc. We had that, and it took a bit of work to get her glassed back together.
      Look at the hull sides up in the v-berth as well.
      Quent

      Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

      Owners no more...
      Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

    • #74382
      quent
      Participant

      Pat-
      Are you going to replace the inside plywood panels while the ports are out? If so, be careful you don’t pull the ports down too tight when you replace them. Alternatively, smooth out any bumps on the inside layup. Otherwise you may get some star crazing in the gelcoat on the trunk cabin outsides where the bumps are.
      Quent

    • #74383
      RichCarter
      Participant

      Pat
      I’m not sure the instructions are quite clear. You need to grind the interior surface of the hull to insure good adhesion. When I read sand, I think of a different level of work. You need to remove some material. I suggest using an angle-grinder with coarse paper. A fap-sander attachment might work. I had this done in Bermuda a few years back. I hired a local glass man to do the work. He spent a whole day grinding and the next day glassing. Its a lousy job, well worth hiring it out if you can.

      The shelf, v-berth and forward bulkheads reinforce the hull much like an interior skeleton. You must make sure the secondary bond for both these bulkheads and shelves don’t separate. If they let go the whole interior will come apart. A coarse surface for bonding and proper fiberglass technique should do it.

      Wear protective clothing and a respirator. Use a fan to keep air circulating to save your brain-cells.

      Good luck
      Rich

      Quote:
      <.. snip>

      Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Viewing 3 reply threads
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.