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I got my shiny new prop shaft back in the boat and snugged it all up and
I’m curious do I need to be checking the tigtness is perfectly even using a
gap tool or is visually even close enough?Thanks,
-p—-
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Typically, you’d treat the prop shaft on a v-drive exactly as you would on
any shaft – it should be in-line with the output shaft and not cocked. So,
yes, you should gap it.Bob
On Tue, Jan 26, 2010 at 2:15 AM, Patrick Walters <>wrote:
I got my shiny new prop shaft back in the boat and snugged it all up and
I’m curious do I need to be checking the tigtness is perfectly even using a
gap tool or is visually even close enough?Thanks,
-p—-
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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http://www.boatgears.net/Walter_V-Drive_Tips.html
On Tue, Jan 26, 2010 at 7:30 AM, Robert Fine <> wrote:
Typically, you’d treat the prop shaft on a v-drive exactly as you would on
any shaft – it should be in-line with the output shaft and not cocked. So,
yes, you should gap it.Bob
On Tue, Jan 26, 2010 at 2:15 AM, Patrick Walters <
wrote:
I got my shiny new prop shaft back in the boat and snugged it all up and
I’m curious do I need to be checking the tigtness is perfectly even usinga
gap tool or is visually even close enough?
Thanks,
-p—-
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
Follow me at: http://www.tinyurl.com/WhereIsBobFine
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maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Patrick
Proper alignment of the V-drive is essential for vibration free operation. Alignment to the engine is pretty forgiving, but the shaft must be true to the coupling. If you didn’t muck with the V-drive when replacing the shaft there is every reason to assume that it is still aligned. In theory you should be able to reinstall the new shaft and be good to go with no alignment. You’ll know if you are out of alignment because the boat will vibrate at cruising speed. It is normal for some vibration in the cabin sole next to the engine, but you should not hear cabinet doors rattle nor should you feel it in the seat of your pants when sitting in the cockpit.A common problem that may be encountered with alignment is a bent flange on the coupling. This can happen if the mechanic gets aggressive with tools when separating the coupling from the shaft or removing the shaft from the coupling. As long as you are pulling the shaft I suggest having the coupling checked. If the coupling is bent, the flange on the V-drive may also be bent. In this case you are basically screwed. It is possible to shim a bent flange, but its non-trivial. Instructions for checking alignment are published in the Walter V-drive manual.
Regards
Rich
Original Message
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Patrick, you can’t align it while it is out of the water. The boat has to
sit in the water for at least 24 hours. Snug it up and don’t run it hard
until you get it aligned.2 hours trying not to damage a piece of rusted metal that won’t release from
the shaft
Bead blasting and painting, another hour plus materials
Machining/mating the old coupling to the new shaft 40 bucks
Finding out from the machinist that it isn’t usable… pricelessIt seems about every other customer insists on going this route. I suggest
that I let the techs cut the shaft (it’s being replaced anyway), toss the
coupling and for about $100 bucks you get a brand new coupling provided by
the machinist that is fit to the shaft and machine faced.Chuck
On Tue, Jan 26, 2010 at 9:02 AM, <> wrote:
Quote:Patrick
Proper alignment of the V-drive is essential for vibration free operation.
Alignment to the engine is pretty forgiving, but the shaft must be true to
the coupling. If you didn’t muck with the V-drive when replacing the shaft
there is every reason to assume that it is still aligned. In theory you
should be able to reinstall the new shaft and be good to go with no
alignment. You’ll know if you are out of alignment because the boat will
vibrate at cruising speed. It is normal for some vibration in the cabin sole
next to the engine, but you should not hear cabinet doors rattle nor should
you feel it in the seat of your pants when sitting in the cockpit.A common problem that may be encountered with alignment is a bent flange on
the coupling. This can happen if the mechanic gets aggressive with tools
when separating the coupling from the shaft or removing the shaft from the
coupling. As long as you are pulling the shaft I suggest having the coupling
checked. If the coupling is bent, the flange on the V-drive may also be
bent. In this case you are basically screwed. It is possible to shim a bent
flange, but its non-trivial. Instructions for checking alignment are
published in the Walter V-drive manual.Regards
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
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I failed to mention i have a new shaft with keys, nuts for the prop
and a new coupling from Walter Machine. All the shaft work, including
fitting the coupling to the shaft, was done by The Prop Shop in
Mukilteo, WA.Thanks for the tips, I’ll gap it when we’re back in the water. I only
have to go about 3 docks from the haul out to my slip, so no high
speed travel.Thanks!
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 26, 2010, at 6:48, Chuck Ruble <> wrote:
Quote:Patrick, you can’t align it while it is out of the water. The boat
has to
sit in the water for at least 24 hours. Snug it up and don’t run it
hard
until you get it aligned.2 hours trying not to damage a piece of rusted metal that won’t
release from
the shaft
Bead blasting and painting, another hour plus materials
Machining/mating the old coupling to the new shaft 40 bucks
Finding out from the machinist that it isn’t usable… pricelessIt seems about every other customer insists on going this route. I
suggest
that I let the techs cut the shaft (it’s being replaced anyway),
toss the
coupling and for about $100 bucks you get a brand new coupling
provided by
the machinist that is fit to the shaft and machine faced.Chuck
On Tue, Jan 26, 2010 at 9:02 AM, <> wrote:
Quote:Patrick
Proper alignment of the V-drive is essential for vibration free
operation.
Alignment to the engine is pretty forgiving, but the shaft must be
true to
the coupling. If you didn’t muck with the V-drive when replacing
the shaft
there is every reason to assume that it is still aligned. In theory
you
should be able to reinstall the new shaft and be good to go with no
alignment. You’ll know if you are out of alignment because the boat
will
vibrate at cruising speed. It is normal for some vibration in the
cabin sole
next to the engine, but you should not hear cabinet doors rattle
nor should
you feel it in the seat of your pants when sitting in the cockpit.A common problem that may be encountered with alignment is a bent
flange on
the coupling. This can happen if the mechanic gets aggressive with
tools
when separating the coupling from the shaft or removing the shaft
from the
coupling. As long as you are pulling the shaft I suggest having the
coupling
checked. If the coupling is bent, the flange on the V-drive may
also be
bent. In this case you are basically screwed. It is possible to
shim a bent
flange, but its non-trivial. Instructions for checking alignment are
published in the Walter V-drive manual.Regards
Rich
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Hello,
I just had some extensiive work done on Indulgences drive train…because time constraints(I needed to help taking care of my father), I had the boat year do the work…ouch!
At the end of last season, I found oil dripping from my v-drive. I decided to have it re-built. My thoughts were while they are there, they might as well do the cutlass bearing (8+ years since last replacement) and to replace the suffing box with a dripless one. They also replaced the output shaft from the engine, as well as numerous hoses, etc. The v-drive looks brand-new and the PYI dripliss stuffing box is installed and looks good. Beautiful job…looks great…only now I have to sell one of my kids to pay for it all.
Turns out the reason for the oil was leaking was that there was a shim that caused some miss-alignment and the resulting oil leak. Hence, definately check your alignment.
Since we are planning on heading south this year, I was especially sensitive to any potential issues…especially with the V-drive. I imagined my family stuck in some remote island in the bahamas waiting for a new/rebuilt v-drive.
Now I can enjoy that island…less one kid.
John Sommer
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