Hi Adam,

If by lift pump you mean the pump that primes the high pressure pump you can use an automotive 12v pump and just plumb it the best way you can.  If it's a mechanical pump on the W60, just bypass it with the electric one that's energized with the ignition key.

Cost: $50.  Maybe less at Auto Zone or someplace like that.

Bob

On Sun, Feb 21, 2010 at 11:42 PM, Adam < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I ordered a fuel lift pump from a local dealer for my Westerbeke 60, and after 3 months it finally came in. Its part no was one number off, and the position of the fuel lines was different.

Has anyone ordered or installed a fuel lift pump and have any advice?

Thanks,

Adam

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Adam
You don’t need a lift pump. Can you send it back? Replace the thing with an inexpensive electric fuel pump. I think they run about $30 at the local auto parts store.

Rich – KE1EV

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The beauty of the older diesel's is that in a worst case scenario the engine once started will still run without 12VDC. 

The location of the inlet/outlets isn't critical as long as you have them plumbed into the system correctly.  The dimensions of the mechanical arm is critical.  Do they look the similar?

What is the part information you have for both pumps, and does the new box have any manufacturing information on it, like who made it?

Chuck 

On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 8:58 AM, Robert Fine < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Hi Adam,

If by lift pump you mean the pump that primes the high pressure pump you can use an automotive 12v pump and just plumb it the best way you can.  If it's a mechanical pump on the W60, just bypass it with the electric one that's energized with the ignition key.

Cost: $50.  Maybe less at Auto Zone or someplace like that.

Bob

On Sun, Feb 21, 2010 at 11:42 PM, Adam < ([email][/email])> wrote:

I ordered a fuel lift pump from a local dealer for my Westerbeke 60, and after 3 months it finally came in. Its part no was one number off, and the position of the fuel lines was different.

Has anyone ordered or installed a fuel lift pump and have any advice?

Thanks,

Adam

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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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I have for sale an original 424 swing out nav table stool $125.00. and a Sun / Rain fly for a 424 Ketch like new $250.00
If interested please call 412-999-3917

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If your fuel tank is full or at least above the level of the engine (in mine, that would be about 1/4 full) it will run once started without 12v.  The primary fuel pump will draw a suction, but not a big one.  As long as it has a positive head it will run.

If you have an electric before the lift pump then the previous owner probably had trouble with the lift pump unless you put it there. If you're going to replace the lift pump, I'd put the electric pump in a bypass and switch it so that it doesn't need to run all the time.

Bob

On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 10:26 PM, Adam < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Thanks for your replies. I have a 12 volt electric fuel pump in place before the lift pump on the engine. I was told ( obviously inaccurately) that the fuel lift pump had to be in place for the engine to work.

I am sending the high dollar pump back, and have located the same pump for less than 1/4 the price!! I will see if it will align up existing pump. It would be nice to know the diesel would continue to run if the electric pump failed.

Adam

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Adam
Your engine will continue to run anyway as long as you have enough fuel to gravity-feed the high-pressure pump and if you don’t get air in the fuel lines. I don’t know home much fuel you need for gravity to work, probably about a quarter tank or more. I know this to be a fact because my lift pump failed many years ago. The engine continued to run because I never let the tank run low. Priming the high-pressure pump was almost impossible. The lift-pump on the W60 is just below the coolant overflow for the coolant tank. Any coolant overflow drips on the pump. This causes the pump to eventually rust. I suggest putting in an overflow tank, even if you don’t replace the pump.

Rich

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