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http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/5014129426/
Cut a big hole today 🙂
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Patrick,
Guess you’re committed now. You’ll be glad later if you make the divider
removable, especially if you’re ultimately going to seal the deck above it,
so you have full access from the forepeak when you’re done. Also, if you run
electrical cables up through the locker to a windlass, you can protect them
by epoxying in PVC tubes as outer sleeves (mine run up the port & starboard
after corners of the locker). Lastly, it’s easier to find the optimum
position for the windlass before decking over. This is important to get
right so that both rodes lead to it smoothly, particularly with a vertical
windlass, which has to be off-center for fair leads. (photos attached)Have fun!
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
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I’m not setting up the windlass to drive two anchors, but I like your
suggestion for how to determing the proper position.I’m still a baby so I’ll live witch schlepping the anchors for now. In 20
years we’ll have fuel cells that run on hyrdrogen made from sea water and
use engines to keep the boat in position so I’ll never need to upgrade to a
dual anchor system. 😉-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 6:59 AM, Silver Heels <> wrote:
Quote:Patrick,Guess you’re committed now. You’ll be glad later if you make the divider
removable, especially if you’re ultimately going to seal the deck above it,
so you have full access from the forepeak when you’re done. Also, if you
run
electrical cables up through the locker to a windlass, you can protect them
by epoxying in PVC tubes as outer sleeves (mine run up the port & starboard
after corners of the locker). Lastly, it’s easier to find the optimum
position for the windlass before decking over. This is important to get
right so that both rodes lead to it smoothly, particularly with a vertical
windlass, which has to be off-center for fair leads. (photos attached)Have fun!
Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Quote:
Original Message
<.. snip>Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Tor
I have been studying the anchor locker for a while. I wonder if you think
it is necessary to cut out the floor of the existing anchor storage locker.
You and Peaboy have lost that as a storage space. I understand that you
mounted your windlass over that so it is no longer accessible. If your
windlass was mounted just aft of the opening do you think that the space
could be saved? I am planning on moving my pipe up to feed the rode in near
the top of the bulkhead to get a better drop. When you have your rode
stored does it need that extra height because the space is divided?Linus
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Hey Linus,
Yes, I need the full height for the chain because it pyramids as it piles
up. With the locker open to the top as I have it there is just enough room
for the 150′ of 3/8 chain piled on top of 100′ of neatly flaked 5/8″ line
for the primary anchor, and 50′ chain over 150′ or 200′ of line (I forget
which) for the second anchor. You can sort of see in the photos I sent that
I left quite a bit of shelving around the hole. I don’t use it for storage –
it’s not very accessible anyway with the solid decking over it – but did
mount the foredeck washdown pump up there, forward. I considered putting in
a round access plate up there to get at the shelf and the washdown pump,
etc, from the deck, but in the end didn’t have the heart to cut into my new,
super-strong foredeck.Your idea of having the chain fall along the forward side of the bulkhead
might work fine, or it might cause even more of a pile-up. You might want to
experiment with it once you’ve opened things up and before you commit to the
windlass position. However, I’m not sure I see the value of keeping the
shelf in tact unless you’re going to keep the opening hatch above it, in
which case you might as well skip the whole project and go sailing instead.Tor
Silverheels, P-424, #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I 100% agree with Tor on the experimentation. Put all the chain you plan to
have in there and see how it piles, also see what your waterline looks like.As for your original question re: removal of the anchor locker (the upper
area). In allowing the chain to travel into the lower area, or the chain
locker as I refer to it you are also opening the interior of the boat to the
outside and thus the potential for water to inter the boat. To minimize the
risk of that, but also allow for access for maintenance I am going to do the
following;1. The deck will be cut open to eliminate all openings except the hawse
pipe on the windlass. That includes the removal of the following:
1. The anchor locker door
2. The water tank fill plate (which was decomissioned long ago by the
P.O.
3. The deck vent (which lacked a proper dorade)
2. The bottom of the chain locker will be glassed closed and drained
overboard to prevent water ingress into the bilge.
3. The higher drain from the original anchor locker will be sealed (this
might not be neccesary)
4. The opening in the v-berth to the chain locker will be improved so as
to able to handle water splashing around and chain hitting it. It will be
large enough (as it is now) so I can crawl into the chain locker (with the
chain removed) to service the windlass, nav lights, and other hardware
through bolted in this area.There are more details, but that gives you the jist of what I”m doing.
-=p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.comOn Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 2:21 PM, SilverHeels <> wrote:
Quote:Hey Linus,Yes, I need the full height for the chain because it pyramids as it piles
up. With the locker open to the top as I have it there is just enough room
for the 150′ of 3/8 chain piled on top of 100′ of neatly flaked 5/8″ line
for the primary anchor, and 50′ chain over 150′ or 200′ of line (I forget
which) for the second anchor. You can sort of see in the photos I sent that
I left quite a bit of shelving around the hole. I don’t use it for storage
–
it’s not very accessible anyway with the solid decking over it – but did
mount the foredeck washdown pump up there, forward. I considered putting in
a round access plate up there to get at the shelf and the washdown pump,
etc, from the deck, but in the end didn’t have the heart to cut into my
new,
super-strong foredeck.Your idea of having the chain fall along the forward side of the bulkhead
might work fine, or it might cause even more of a pile-up. You might want
to
experiment with it once you’ve opened things up and before you commit to
the
windlass position. However, I’m not sure I see the value of keeping the
shelf in tact unless you’re going to keep the opening hatch above it, in
which case you might as well skip the whole project and go sailing instead.Tor
Silverheels, P-424, #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Original Message
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick!
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