Patrick,
Not sure how much you want to change the standard arrangement. I’ve pretty
much left if alone except I have had problems with the the chain shifting
and knocking the locker door into the V-berth and dumping wet chain on the
berth. My simple solution was to add latches to the locker door. These
latches have kept the door in place for several rolling passages.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeDeckRig.htm#Anchor_Well_Modifications

That’s my interim solution until I decide to implement Tor’s more radical
solution.

On Wed, Dec 8, 2010 at 3:40 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:

I just posted this to my blog, and wanted to see if any of you had thoughts
one way or the other.

Chain Locker Bulkhead Design and Material
Issues<
http://www.deepplaya.com/post/Chain-Locker-Bulkhead-Design-and-Material-Issues.aspx

http://www.deepplaya.com/post/Chain-Locker-Bulkhead-Design-and-Material-Issues.aspx
<
http://www.deepplaya.com/post/Chain-Locker-Bulkhead-Design-and-Material-Issues.aspx

[image: Preparing to make a huge
mess]<http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/5010236289/>

[image: ChainLocker_Hatch_blog]<
http://www.deepplaya.com/image.axd?picture=ChainLocker_Hatch_blog.jpg>

I’m hemming and hawing a bit on the chain locker bulkhead. I need to make a
removable panel that keeps the chain and water out of the v-berth. There
probably won’t ever be any substantial amount of water in the chain locker,
just the normal mess from brining up the chain.

The bulkhead itself is 1/2” thick. The design seems pretty straight
forward.
I need to make a 1/2” thick piece that fits neatly into the hole and then
another 1/2” piece about 1” bigger than the hole. This 2nd piece will be
bolted to the bulkhead. Since it needs to be removable and you can’t get to
the inside once the panel is in place I’ve decided it will be attached with
tee-nuts<
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/SSN-3118/516-18-Stainless-Steel-Tee-Nuts

and

machine screws.

I’ve been going back and forth on a couple of things:

*Should the panel be bolted on the outside or the inside?
*
If the panel is on the outside the bolts alone will have to hold the weight
of the chain if it rests against the panel. This could be alleviated by
putting in a removable set of panel on the inside to bear the weight. A guy
at <> mentioned they have done this before and used starboard.
Basically it would look like hatch boards.

If the panel is on the inside thee is NO way you’re going to remove the
panel without first removing the chain from the locker. This seems like a
deal breaker for inside, but I’m already resolved that I will likely add a
small water tight deck plate above the panel for quick access to deal with
chain castling or other quick inspection needs.

*Should the panel be made out of starboard or marine grade plywood coated
in epoxy?*

*Both materials seem fine and I don’t think the plywood would be much
cheaper. Joining two 1/2” pieces of starboard seems impossible. I don’t’
think epoxy alone will hold, it would also need to be screwed
together. **Epoxying
two plywood 1/2” thick pieces would be easy and wood is easy to work with.
We (pronounced Dawn) also have pretty good epoxy skills. We could put a
layer of fiberglass on the inside surface to protect it even more from
chain
hitting it. We could put a Formica surface on the outside to match the
existing bulkhead.*

*Another option is to use 1” thick material and basically mill the hatch
out
of the solid material. This would probably be the way to go with
starboard.*

*I’ve looked at G10FRP4 panels and I don’t think they’d be easy to work
with especially since I have never seen the stuff in person. I’ve also
looked at aluminum and stainless steel sheet metal, but they are way more
expensive.*

*I feel like I’m leaning plywood and outside and then if needed I can add
an
inside 1/4″ starboard protector board later.*

*Thanks!*

*-p*

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing list

https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing list

https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

PS,
I only used the expensive Perko latches because I had them in my parts bin.
http://www.marinepartdepot.com/ offers equivalent latches in SS at about
1/2 the Perko price. Thanks to Bob Fine or turning me onto this source.

On Wed, Dec 8, 2010 at 5:23 PM, John Stevenson <>wrote:

Patrick,
Not sure how much you want to change the standard arrangement. I’ve pretty
much left if alone except I have had problems with the the chain shifting
and knocking the locker door into the V-berth and dumping wet chain on the
berth. My simple solution was to add latches to the locker door. These
latches have kept the door in place for several rolling passages.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeDeckRig.htm#Anchor_Well_Modifications

That’s my interim solution until I decide to implement Tor’s more radical
solution.

On Wed, Dec 8, 2010 at 3:40 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:

I just posted this to my blog, and wanted to see if any of you had
thoughts
one way or the other.

Chain Locker Bulkhead Design and Material
Issues<
http://www.deepplaya.com/post/Chain-Locker-Bulkhead-Design-and-Material-Issues.aspx

http://www.deepplaya.com/post/Chain-Locker-Bulkhead-Design-and-Material-Issues.aspx
<
http://www.deepplaya.com/post/Chain-Locker-Bulkhead-Design-and-Material-Issues.aspx

[image: Preparing to make a huge
mess]<http://www.flickr.com/photos/deepplaya/5010236289/>

[image: ChainLocker_Hatch_blog]<
http://www.deepplaya.com/image.axd?picture=ChainLocker_Hatch_blog.jpg>

I’m hemming and hawing a bit on the chain locker bulkhead. I need to make
a
removable panel that keeps the chain and water out of the v-berth. There
probably won’t ever be any substantial amount of water in the chain
locker,
just the normal mess from brining up the chain.

The bulkhead itself is 1/2” thick. The design seems pretty straight
forward.
I need to make a 1/2” thick piece that fits neatly into the hole and then
another 1/2” piece about 1” bigger than the hole. This 2nd piece will be
bolted to the bulkhead. Since it needs to be removable and you can’t get
to
the inside once the panel is in place I’ve decided it will be attached
with
tee-nuts<
http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/SSN-3118/516-18-Stainless-Steel-Tee-Nuts

and

machine screws.

I’ve been going back and forth on a couple of things:

*Should the panel be bolted on the outside or the inside?
*
If the panel is on the outside the bolts alone will have to hold the
weight
of the chain if it rests against the panel. This could be alleviated by
putting in a removable set of panel on the inside to bear the weight. A
guy
at <> mentioned they have done this before and used starboard.
Basically it would look like hatch boards.

If the panel is on the inside thee is NO way you’re going to remove the
panel without first removing the chain from the locker. This seems like a
deal breaker for inside, but I’m already resolved that I will likely add a
small water tight deck plate above the panel for quick access to deal with
chain castling or other quick inspection needs.

*Should the panel be made out of starboard or marine grade plywood coated
in epoxy?*

*Both materials seem fine and I don’t think the plywood would be much
cheaper. Joining two 1/2” pieces of starboard seems impossible. I don’t’
think epoxy alone will hold, it would also need to be screwed
together. **Epoxying
two plywood 1/2” thick pieces would be easy and wood is easy to work with.
We (pronounced Dawn) also have pretty good epoxy skills. We could put a
layer of fiberglass on the inside surface to protect it even more from
chain
hitting it. We could put a Formica surface on the outside to match the
existing bulkhead.*

*Another option is to use 1” thick material and basically mill the hatch
out
of the solid material. This would probably be the way to go with
starboard.*

*I’ve looked at G10FRP4 panels and I don’t think they’d be easy to work
with especially since I have never seen the stuff in person. I’ve also
looked at aluminum and stainless steel sheet metal, but they are way more
expensive.*

*I feel like I’m leaning plywood and outside and then if needed I can add
an
inside 1/4″ starboard protector board later.*

*Thanks!*

*-p*

—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing list

https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com

—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing list

https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Patrick,

I haven’t studied your blog closely, but I gather you’re debating about an
inside vs. outside panel to close off the chain locker from the V-berth. I
have a stainless steel plate on the inside that covers the lower 2/3 to 3/4
of the opening. It slides onto 4 corner bolts set into the bulkhead and
protruding into the chain locker a little and gets tightened on with wing
nuts. Yes, you have to empty the chain out of the locker to remove that SS
plate, but on the V-berth side of the bulkhead is what I suppose is
Pearson’s original, louvered teak hatch/door. That closes off the total
aperture from the inside, but is easily removable to see and reach inside
the locker over the top of the SS plate for quick access in there, like if
you have to topple a chain pyramid. So I guess my suggestion is to do both,
retain the chain with a partial plate covering on the inside, and close off
the aperture with a hatch on the outside.

Or did I totally miss what you were talking about? (Sorry, dinner’s burning
on the stove.)

Tor

---

SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us

---

---

Original Message

---

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Patrick,

I’ve had Silver Heels in some rough weather since I set off cruising – lots
of water splashing over the foredeck at times. The little bit that might’ve
found its way into the chain locker ran right back out through the overboard
drain holes at the locker’s base. With the set-up I described I’ve never had
a drop come in onto the V-berth. I’m comfortable with it that way, but then
again I don’t have Dawn standing by to kill me.

Your call,

Tor

---

SilverHeels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us

---

---

Original Message

---

<.. snip>

Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

Patrick, stay away from Starboard. Nothing sticks to it. If you are trying to get a waterproof seal, you’ll be disappointed. G10 is overkill. FRP4 is easy to work with, wear an appropriate respirator when cutting and sanding.
Sand the entire surface before painting. Our yard only uses this, we do not use marine ply.

Your explanation on the panel and it’s orientation went over my head so I’m not sure about the design.

Chuck