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Jim,
I use the recommendations put forth by Brian Toss: 10% of working load on
the lower shrouds, 15% on the fore and back stays and the upper shrouds.
That sets everything pretty snug. It also requires a tension meter. There
are other ways to measure the tension (e.g., tone of wire when struck), but
I invested in the pricey meters from Loos Cable (sold by WM, among others).On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 2:14 PM, jamesminge wrote:
I am about to launch my newly refurbished 1980 424 ketch (no staysail). I
haven’t a clue how to tune the shrouds and stays. Does anyone have any
guidlines as to tension, mast bend, etc.? Eg, pounds, taut, snug, tight,
etc. Thanks Jim_______________________________________________
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Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
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For an initial tune I think it’s worth the money to have a rigger come out.
Somethings you need to look for off the top of my head (and not complete):1. Masthead centered (use a tape on the halyard to measure)
2. Proper mastbend
3. Main mast proper fore and aft
4. Mizzen aligned to the centered main
5. Mizzen fore aft properOne key thing to note if you mast is stepped incorrectly even a 1/2″ off it
will through things way out, so you will want to be near a crane for the
tune. My main mast is stepped slightly off and now my mast is WAY too close
to the partner (hole in the deck). I’m going to have to go to the crane and
fix that still.-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 11:37 AM, John Stevenson
wrote:Jim,
I use the recommendations put forth by Brian Toss: 10% of working load on
the lower shrouds, 15% on the fore and back stays and the upper shrouds.
That sets everything pretty snug. It also requires a tension meter. There
are other ways to measure the tension (e.g., tone of wire when struck), but
I invested in the pricey meters from Loos Cable (sold by WM, among others).On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 2:14 PM, jamesminge wrote:
I am about to launch my newly refurbished 1980 424 ketch (no staysail).
I
haven’t a clue how to tune the shrouds and stays. Does anyone have any
guidlines as to tension, mast bend, etc.? Eg, pounds, taut, snug, tight,
etc. Thanks Jim_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Here’s a brief bit oin Tuning from Brion that I had a PDF of.
-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 12:01 PM, Patrick “Peaboy” Walters <
> wrote:For an initial tune I think it’s worth the money to have a rigger come out.
Somethings you need to look for off the top of my head (and not complete):1. Masthead centered (use a tape on the halyard to measure)
2. Proper mastbend
3. Main mast proper fore and aft
4. Mizzen aligned to the centered main
5. Mizzen fore aft properOne key thing to note if you mast is stepped incorrectly even a 1/2″ off it
will through things way out, so you will want to be near a crane for the
tune. My main mast is stepped slightly off and now my mast is WAY too close
to the partner (hole in the deck). I’m going to have to go to the crane and
fix that still.-p
—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 11:37 AM, John Stevenson <
wrote:
Jim,
I use the recommendations put forth by Brian Toss: 10% of working load on
the lower shrouds, 15% on the fore and back stays and the upper shrouds.
That sets everything pretty snug. It also requires a tension meter.
There
are other ways to measure the tension (e.g., tone of wire when struck),
but
I invested in the pricey meters from Loos Cable (sold by WM, among
others).On Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 2:14 PM, jamesminge wrote:
I am about to launch my newly refurbished 1980 424 ketch (no staysail).
I
haven’t a clue how to tune the shrouds and stays. Does anyone have any
guidlines as to tension, mast bend, etc.? Eg, pounds, taut, snug,tight,
etc. Thanks Jim
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
This is a matter of experience. I adjust the rig so that the uppers are
tighter than the lowers and the mast is straight and plum as measured using
the main halyard pulled out to each rail. I then sail the boat. In a
normal breeze about 15kts, the lee shrouds should be loose but not flopping
in the beeze. Resist the temptation of tightening the loose lowers when
under way.With a mizzen, you’ll never be able to get sufficient backstay tension to
bend the main mast. Just get it straight. If you have a sloop or cutter
with a backstay tensioner you can bend the mast and get the boat to point up
about 10 more degrees.Rich
Quote:
Original Message
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I was able to see considerable difference in mast bend using just the
lowers… It’s not all backstay… 😉-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Wed, Mar 16, 2011 at 12:18 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
Quote:This is a matter of experience. I adjust the rig so that the uppers are
tighter than the lowers and the mast is straight and plum as measured using
the main halyard pulled out to each rail. I then sail the boat. In a
normal breeze about 15kts, the lee shrouds should be loose but not flopping
in the beeze. Resist the temptation of tightening the loose lowers when
under way.With a mizzen, you’ll never be able to get sufficient backstay tension to
bend the main mast. Just get it straight. If you have a sloop or cutter
with a backstay tensioner you can bend the mast and get the boat to point
up
about 10 more degrees.Rich
Quote:
Original Message
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Our hot water heater works great when we are on the dock and the 50 amp service
is plugged in, but the water heater doesn’t heat the water at all underway. Any
suggestions?lee
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Hi Lee,
I have a Perkins Prima and mine is heated while underway. It’s much hotter
than plugged into the dock. I have a supply and return line that go to the
hot water tank from the engine, that I assume go through coils heating the
water in the tank.Jack
Xanadu IVOn Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 3:32 PM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
Our hot water heater works great when we are on the dock and the 50 amp
service
is plugged in, but the water heater doesn’t heat the water at all underway.
Any
suggestions?lee
_______________________________________________
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Sorry if this is a stupid question…
Do you think it should be working and its not or you would like suggestions
on a setup that will work?-p
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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 12:32 PM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
Our hot water heater works great when we are on the dock and the 50 amp
service
is plugged in, but the water heater doesn’t heat the water at all underway.
Any
suggestions?lee
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Hi Lee,
I don’t have your engine, I have the Westerbeak 58. We did have the same
problem and a service person observed the plumbing circuit was incorrect.
The water heater has to be the first stop in the circuit after the coolant
leaves the engine. He rerouted the plumbing. Now after 20 minutes it is
pretty warm, and a half hour it’s hot.Steve Sears
On Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 12:32 PM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
Our hot water heater works great when we are on the dock and the 50 amp
service
is plugged in, but the water heater doesn’t heat the water at all underway.
Any
suggestions?lee
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
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Lee
There was a water heater discussion back in Sept of 09 that has many
troubleshooting suggestions.Here is what I wrote about my engine heated hot water situation;
Several months ago I posted a problem I was having relating to heating
domestic hot water with the engine. My engine would get hot but I could only
get sufficient domestic hot water if the engine had been running for a long
time.
I have a 10 year old Westerbeke 63C which I don’t think too many other
Pearson owners have. I eliminated an air lock as the source of my problem. I
replaced the existing Raritan 6 gallon water heater with a new Super Stor 6
gallon water heater thinking that there was poor heat transfer inside the
waterheater. When I removed and looked inside the old water heater there was
a considerable layer of deposits on the exchanger. However, even with the
new water heater, there was still inadequate hot water production. I could
feel that the hose going to the water heater did not get hot in relation to
the engine temperature.
I took my entire engine cooling system apart to confirm that the heat
exchanger was allowing flow from the water heater, replaced all the hoses
(to eliminate internal collapsing of hoses), cleaned the thermostat
housing/replaced the thermostat, and examined the vanes on the engine
coolant pump. All systems were normal.
I called Engines 1, the regional Westerbeke folks, and didn’t get much help
other than to get a couple of local mechanics who they recommended. I called
one of the mechanics who didn’t have any specific experience with this
engine. I described the flow of coolant thru the engine and water heater.
The hot water heater is a circuit off the manifold thru the hot water heat
and then back to the heat exchanger. He stated that the flow I described was
a poor design (too passive) and will be inadequate to provide hot water. He
stated that I needed to get my outflow to the water heater back at the
coolant pump where it would have more pressure to force it thru the water
heater. There was no way to do that. So, I added a small 12v Jabsco
circulation pump at the water heater that gets turned on manually when I
turn the engine on. I can leave this pump on after the engine is off and
continue to suck heat off the engine and into the water heater as long as
the engine is hot. This action greatly improved my hot water production.
Rick
EclipseOn Fri, Mar 18, 2011 at 3:32 PM, Lee Yonkers wrote:
Our hot water heater works great when we are on the dock and the 50 amp
service
is plugged in, but the water heater doesn’t heat the water at all underway.
Any
suggestions?lee
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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