John, I just replaced that oil pan gasket on my W58. I had the same leak in St Barts last year but I waited until I got back to the states to fix it. It looked like a lot of oil at the time while it was dripping but in actuality as I kept checking it there was not much volume.
To replace the gasket the engine needs to come out. I did that myself and only took about 5-6 hours working alone. The gaskets as readily available but the tranny needs to come off (6 bolts). You’ll need an engine stand.  Not a big job, just a PITA. another day to get the engine back in and hooked up.
I had a friend who used  Bobby’s Marina in Simpson Bay Lagoon offers professional marine services, including travel-lift haul-out up to 50-tons, storage and DIY.
He was pleased with their work.
Good luck and if there is anything else I can do for you… let me know.
Did you get to anchor at Colombier?
Alan

— On Tue, 1/25/11, John Sommer wrote:

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If you can reach it, check the oil drain connection at the bottom of the
pan. Perhaps the hose has become a little loose. That is the most
likely source of a leak down low that I can think of.

If you can characterize the leak more, you can diagnose it easier. For
example, does it leak while the engine is running or just right after it
is turned off? This may take a good bit of observing and changing out
pads below the engine. The seals of the W58 are pretty robust and
unless you ran the engine dry at some point or overheated it greatly,
they are not likely the cause. Start with the simple stuff. Paper
towels stuck in different places can help with the diagnosis.

Good luck.

Pete

On 1/25/2011 11:32 AM, John Sommer wrote:

Hello,

Here I am in St. Barth and I notice that a small oil leak from my W58 is getting worse. I have not had much luck in locating the source of the leak, however I believe that it is coming from the bottom of the engine (perhaps the oil pan). I am contemplating heading back to St. Martin to get the leak repaired. I fear that to repair the leak, the engine will need be pulled. Can anyone give me some guidance? Does this mean a rebuild? Other than the oil leak, the engine is running great.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

John
s/v Indulgence

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You could lift the engine within the boat with a stout timber over the
companionway and work on the engine while it hangs there. I think you
can do this without pulling the tranny. (I am recalling when I pulled
the oil pan on my W58 last year which led me to the conclusion based on
the bearing wear that it was time for a new engine instead of a rebuild,
and I don’t believe the tranny mount overlaps the oil pan at any point.

They want a bundle for the gasket. You can make your own from
cork/rubber gasket stock pretty easily. I keep a roll of each thickness
and type of gasket stock on my boat for just such occasions. Most auto
parts stores carry it, you can find it on e-bay, or get at many
industrial supply houses. Sorry but I don’t recall the thickness of the
material I used for the oil pan gasket, but there are no critical
thicknesses for this application as long as you get a bit of compliance
from the gasket. Also use a good sealer.

Pete

On 1/25/2011 12:33 PM, Alan wrote:

Alan-

I have done the engine lift per Pete’s recommendation in order to replace my
engine mounts. Using a 4X4 with a come along should get the job done.

Did you check the obvious, ie, tighten all bolts on the oil pan as best you
could? This might slow the leak enough to enable you to wait till you get
to where you want to have it fixed if you choose not to lift the engine
yourself.

Good luck–

Rodd Leeds
Windseeker

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You can lift the engine in place to inspect the bottom of the pan. Disconnect the exhaust, driveshaft, and anything else in the way. Remove the engine-mount nuts. Put a short beam across your companionway with a strong lift ring. Use a cable-winch to lift the engine. Block the think before putting any body parts under the engine. You should be able to do this in a few hours, less if you’ve done it before.

Spray PB-Blaster on the engine mount nuts the night before you try this.

Regards
Rich
BlackSheep #47

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John,

Glad you found it. A clean engine is a happy engine and one that is
easier to diagnose. Hopefully you don’t really have a shaft “break” and
that the leak in your shaft “brake” remains sealed.

Happy cruising (aka “fixing boats in exotic locations”)

Pete

On 1/28/2011 8:06 AM, John Sommer wrote:

Anyone have one of those shaft brakes laying around?

Sent from my iPad

On Jan 28, 2011, at 10:24, Pete Dubler wrote:

Was it the cylinder rod leaking? Over the past 6 years I’ve had to replace mine 3 times. They are relatively  inexpensive. We used them all over Kodak on our machinery because they were considered disposable. But they do make a mess when they leak…. red tranny fluid all over the place.
alan.

— On Fri, 1/28/11, Joe Shimkonis wrote:

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Alan,

Do you have the model number and source of the cylinder that you could
share? Sounds like something I should have onboard as a spare.

Pete

On 1/28/2011 10:31 AM, Alan wrote:

Give me a day or 2 to find it. There is an industrial supplier here in Rochester. The cylinder make is a BIMBA….. just can’t remember the model… I am thinking is was around 20 bucks,,, but then again I am suffering from CRS.
 I’ll get back to you…..
Alan

— On Fri, 1/28/11, Pete Dubler wrote:

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Thanks!

On 1/28/2011 4:50 PM, Alan wrote: