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Bob’s mention of Vulcan Metals reminded me to ask our illustrious and
well-connected group if any of you are aware of a particularly
good-priced source of solid 1″ stainless rub rail. I am willing to buy
just half oval solid stock and drill it myself on my mill, but
everything I have found so far is out-of-sight pricewise. I need like
160 feet in order to do the toe and rub rails.Thanks,
Pete
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Hey, Pete,
Usually the rub rail (since bronze went out of style) is not solid – it’s a
stamped or rolled product with the holes already drilled. It’s far less
expensive and not so heavy, either. Let me see if I can find a source for
it.Bob
On Sat, Mar 5, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Bob’s mention of Vulcan Metals reminded me to ask our illustrious and
well-connected group if any of you are aware of a particularly good-priced
source of solid 1″ stainless rub rail. I am willing to buy just half oval
solid stock and drill it myself on my mill, but everything I have found so
far is out-of-sight pricewise. I need like 160 feet in order to do the toe
and rub rails.Thanks,
Pete
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Hi Pete,
Check this out:
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=stainless-rubrail
I think it’s what you’re looking for and it’s fairly reasonably priced.
They also make the end caps.Bob
On Sat, Mar 5, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Bob’s mention of Vulcan Metals reminded me to ask our illustrious and
well-connected group if any of you are aware of a particularly good-priced
source of solid 1″ stainless rub rail. I am willing to buy just half oval
solid stock and drill it myself on my mill, but everything I have found so
far is out-of-sight pricewise. I need like 160 feet in order to do the toe
and rub rails.Thanks,
Pete
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Bob,
I am trying to get away from the “hollow-back” stuff since that dents
compared to the solid stuff. I have a bit of the solid stuff on my
boat (well actually on the ground right now) and it looks brand new.
The hollow stuff on the other hand, not so much…Pete
On 3/5/2011 7:51 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hey, Pete,
Usually the rub rail (since bronze went out of style) is not solid – it’s a
stamped or rolled product with the holes already drilled. It’s far less
expensive and not so heavy, either. Let me see if I can find a source for
it.Bob
On Sat, Mar 5, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Bob’s mention of Vulcan Metals reminded me to ask our illustrious and
well-connected group if any of you are aware of a particularly good-priced
source of solid 1″ stainless rub rail. I am willing to buy just half oval
solid stock and drill it myself on my mill, but everything I have found so
far is out-of-sight pricewise. I need like 160 feet in order to do the toe
and rub rails.Thanks,
Pete
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Yup. I know rexmar but their solid rail prices are still very high.
You are right, that the hollow is much cheaper.Pete
On 3/5/2011 7:54 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Pete,
Check this out:
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=stainless-rubrail
I think it’s what you’re looking for and it’s fairly reasonably priced.
They also make the end caps.Bob
On Sat, Mar 5, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Bob’s mention of Vulcan Metals reminded me to ask our illustrious and
well-connected group if any of you are aware of a particularly good-priced
source of solid 1″ stainless rub rail. I am willing to buy just half oval
solid stock and drill it myself on my mill, but everything I have found so
far is out-of-sight pricewise. I need like 160 feet in order to do the toe
and rub rails.Thanks,
Pete
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
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What if you took the hollow stuff and resin or epoxy filled to make it solid? Would still be lighter than half round ss and could be drilled more easily. A bit of work to fill but maybe less $$
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 5, 2011, at 8:04 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Yup. I know rexmar but their solid rail prices are still very high. You are right, that the hollow is much cheaper.
Pete
On 3/5/2011 7:54 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Pete,
Check this out:
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=stainless-rubrail
I think it’s what you’re looking for and it’s fairly reasonably priced.
They also make the end caps.Bob
On Sat, Mar 5, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Bob’s mention of Vulcan Metals reminded me to ask our illustrious and
well-connected group if any of you are aware of a particularly good-priced
source of solid 1″ stainless rub rail. I am willing to buy just half oval
solid stock and drill it myself on my mill, but everything I have found so
far is out-of-sight pricewise. I need like 160 feet in order to do the toe
and rub rails.Thanks,
Pete
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Interesting idea. I might try that and if I do, I will report back.
On 3/6/2011 5:56 AM, S V Navasana wrote:
What if you took the hollow stuff and resin or epoxy filled to make it solid? Would still be lighter than half round ss and could be drilled more easily. A bit of work to fill but maybe less $$
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 5, 2011, at 8:04 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Yup. I know rexmar but their solid rail prices are still very high. You are right, that the hollow is much cheaper.
Pete
On 3/5/2011 7:54 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Pete,
Check this out:
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=stainless-rubrail
I think it’s what you’re looking for and it’s fairly reasonably priced.
They also make the end caps.Bob
On Sat, Mar 5, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Bob’s mention of Vulcan Metals reminded me to ask our illustrious and
well-connected group if any of you are aware of a particularly good-priced
source of solid 1″ stainless rub rail. I am willing to buy just half oval
solid stock and drill it myself on my mill, but everything I have found so
far is out-of-sight pricewise. I need like 160 feet in order to do the toe
and rub rails.Thanks,
Pete
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Ideally we dont bump into anything – ha!
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 6, 2011, at 8:08 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Interesting idea. I might try that and if I do, I will report back.
On 3/6/2011 5:56 AM, S V Navasana wrote:
What if you took the hollow stuff and resin or epoxy filled to make it solid? Would still be lighter than half round ss and could be drilled more easily. A bit of work to fill but maybe less $$
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 5, 2011, at 8:04 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Yup. I know rexmar but their solid rail prices are still very high. You are right, that the hollow is much cheaper.
Pete
On 3/5/2011 7:54 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Pete,
Check this out:
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=stainless-rubrail
I think it’s what you’re looking for and it’s fairly reasonably priced.
They also make the end caps.Bob
On Sat, Mar 5, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Bob’s mention of Vulcan Metals reminded me to ask our illustrious and
well-connected group if any of you are aware of a particularly good-priced
source of solid 1″ stainless rub rail. I am willing to buy just half oval
solid stock and drill it myself on my mill, but everything I have found so
far is out-of-sight pricewise. I need like 160 feet in order to do the toe
and rub rails.Thanks,
Pete
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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yes, ha indeed!
I had to use a spring line and radius around a piling to back into my
slip at my last marina. I do like this technique and it depends on good
rub rails.Pete
On 3/6/2011 8:13 AM, S V Navasana wrote:
Ideally we dont bump into anything – ha!
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 6, 2011, at 8:08 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Interesting idea. I might try that and if I do, I will report back.
On 3/6/2011 5:56 AM, S V Navasana wrote:
What if you took the hollow stuff and resin or epoxy filled to make it solid? Would still be lighter than half round ss and could be drilled more easily. A bit of work to fill but maybe less $$
Eric Lorentzon
EFI Sales Development Manager
412.352.1941
Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 5, 2011, at 8:04 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Yup. I know rexmar but their solid rail prices are still very high. You are right, that the hollow is much cheaper.
Pete
On 3/5/2011 7:54 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
Hi Pete,
Check this out:
http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=stainless-rubrail
I think it’s what you’re looking for and it’s fairly reasonably priced.
They also make the end caps.Bob
On Sat, Mar 5, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Pete Dubler wrote:
Bob’s mention of Vulcan Metals reminded me to ask our illustrious and
well-connected group if any of you are aware of a particularly good-priced
source of solid 1″ stainless rub rail. I am willing to buy just half oval
solid stock and drill it myself on my mill, but everything I have found so
far is out-of-sight pricewise. I need like 160 feet in order to do the toe
and rub rails.Thanks,
Pete
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Pete,
I understand using a spring line to back around a piling, but what do
you mean when you say you used a radius?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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Pull boat up beside the piling at the end of the slip, at 90 degrees to
the slip. Loop line around piling one end tied to aft cleat the other
end free to control through a cleat horn for friction. Prop in reverse
pulls the boat around the the piling (ie a turning the boat in a radius
around the piling). Letting the line out at the right rate lets the
boat slide into the slip.On 3/6/2011 8:27 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Pete,I understand using a spring line to back around a piling, but what do
you mean when you say you used a radius?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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Pete
I assume you know what you’d be getting yourself into by drilling your own
holes. Sounds like a lot of work. Even thin stainless is a bitch to drill.About denting the hollow-back stuff. If you bump something, you’ll likely
dent or bend it it anyway (ask me how I know). I think you might be better
off getting the cheaper hollow-back stuff and get an extra piece or two to
replace anything you damage.Defender has the solid stuff for $140/12 feet, but you probably know that.
Rich
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Original Message
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Ah, when you wrote, “I had to use a spring line and radius around a
piling,” I took “radius” to be a noun. Hadn’t heard it used as a verb
before, but now understand it to mean “pivot” in this case. Learning
everyday.Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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I had to learn that trick by trial and error when I was in Morehead City. The
tides and wind can make backing into a slip a real nightmare with a single screw
and keel.
But my view on rub rails is that I would definitely stick with wood, like the
original design. I have a thin steel cap over teak. Why?
Because wood is softer than fiberglass and fiberglass is softer than steel.
When subject to forces higher than the tensile strength of fiberglass, it’s
better to have the wood collapse than the fiberglass. With steel, the fiberglass
would be the one getting damaged.My two cents worth…..
Joe,
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