John,

Actually there is a flange which received the four stud ends. The studs
do not go throrugh the tranny itself. The nuts are easy to get to. The
whole above-deck assembly should come off as one solid piece with the
shaft, so nope, I don’t have the above deck assembly off. It is all
still together. Socket hit by mallet had no effect at freeing the shaft.

I like a vertical windlass capstan, some prefer horizontal… actually I
like both. This windlass has never let me down. I have a switch in the
cockpit which I can operate with my toes and a handheld control forward
which lets me move around and see exactly what is going on which I
prefer over deck-mounted foot controls.

Pete

On 7/24/2011 9:08 PM, John Stevenson wrote:

Pete,
I don’t have a Leopard ( have a Royal manual), but since no one else out
there seems to have one either …

Looking at the Lofrans drawings (which may not accurately depict your unit),
I don’t see any nuts on the studs below decks. It looks like the studs
screw into threads in the below decks gear housing itself. However,
assuming that means you have freed the studs from the below decks gear
housing and have removed the drum and the base, all you have is the shaft
sticking up through the deck and it will not come loose, It appears the
only items holding the shaft in place are two keys, the lower of which
appears to engage what they call the wormwheel, but what I would call a ring
gear.

So given my description of what you already know (assuming I’m even close to
accurate), there should be nothing but friction or corrosion holding that
shaft in place. I understand your reluctance to spray solvent (PBlaster,
etc.) down the shaft and let it mix with the grease on the worm gear,
however there may be no better choice. I assume you have to replace the
grease on the gear every year or so, so what’s the risk? However you can
always try the standard fine adjustment tool (2 lb mallet) first[?].

Sorry to not offer anything really usefull. I’ve been looking for a powered
vertical windlass to replace my manual, horizontal unit, so your question
just got me looking at the specs on the Leopard. Since I can’t answer your
question, maybe you can answer a few of mine.

1. Are you satisfied with the Leopard?
2. What size anchor and chain to you use with it? I have a 60lb Manson
on 5/16 proof coil chain.

Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com

On Sun, Jul 24, 2011 at 8:56 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:

I am trying to get my Lofrans Leopard windlass of the deck as I prep the
boat for painting (and I want to change out the old teak spacer block under
it.

I have removed the four stud nuts below deck but the vertical shaft will
not budge out of the transmission. I noticed a small hole in the side of
the assembly and wonder if I could run some PB Blaster in there and if that
would run down the shaft and by and by help free it but I don’t want to just
instead dilute the tranny grease.

Anyone had this problem and have a solution?

Thanks,

Pete

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I spoke with a tech at Imtra. Turns out that one can disassemble the
topside and, sacrificing an oil seal, get down to a pair of circlips to
release the shaft downward. The motor is then removed with the vertical
shaft. The oil seals (30x55x10mm) are cheap enough.

Pete

On 7/24/2011 6:56 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:

I am trying to get my Lofrans Leopard windlass of the deck as I prep
the boat for painting (and I want to change out the old teak spacer
block under it.

I have removed the four stud nuts below deck but the vertical shaft
will not budge out of the transmission. I noticed a small hole in the
side of the assembly and wonder if I could run some PB Blaster in
there and if that would run down the shaft and by and by help free it
but I don’t want to just instead dilute the tranny grease.

Anyone had this problem and have a solution?

Thanks,

Pete

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