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Hey guys.. we’re doing well made a big jump from Noyo River, CA (Fort Bragg)
and are now in Monterey wearing shorts and enjoying sunshine!I’m a bit baffled by the coolant level and wondering if you have any advice.
When we pulled the engine we obviously spilled some coolant. I filled the
surge tank on the W58 till it was half full (as per the manual) and then as
we’ve been running the engine I’ve been checking the level at the overflow
tank (in the lazarette) and putting in more fluid there until I had some
(1″) standing fluid in that tank. Since I’ve done that we motored for 36
hours, the engine temp mevber went over 180 and we made hot water for the
first time I’ve ever seen since we have had the boat.So now the question. I wanted to check the level at the surge tank on the
engine block and fluid starting coming out… Hmmm… Does the external
overflow tank basically replace the engine mounted on? Should I only be
checking the fluid at the overflow tank from now on? The manual is not very
specific on this…Thanks!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlaya
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Hey P-
It would be helpful to know how much over 180 degrees the engine went, and what engine speed you went for 36 hours. The radiator cap on the exhaust manifold is not the coolant fill. You were correct to add coolant to the overflow tank, which also has a pressure cap.
There are vents to bleed air from the system on the exhaust manifold and on the thermostat top cover and there should be no air in the system below the coolant overflow tank. I think that you have some air in the system. The W-58 in Clairebuoyant stays at 180 which is the rated opening temperature on the factory t-stat.
Quent -
It never went over 180 in recent years, the only time it did that was way
back when I bought the boat. It stays right at 180 all the time now.Your second part explains what I wanted to confirm which the manual is
unclear about. Once you add the external tank to the W58, you fill and check
level there, the lower fill is only for if you have no external tank (like
on a generator implementation of the W58).Thanks for confirming my gut feeling!
-p—
s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 Hull #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com | @DeepPlayaOn Mon, Oct 10, 2011 at 12:34 PM, quent wrote:
Hey P-
It would be helpful to know how much over 180 degrees the engine went, and
what engine speed you went for 36 hours. The radiator cap on the exhaust
manifold is not the coolant fill. You were correct to add coolant to the
overflow tank, which also has a pressure cap.
There are vents to bleed air from the system on the exhaust manifold and
on the thermostat top cover and there should be no air in the system below
the coolant overflow tank. I think that you have some air in the system.
The W-58 in Clairebuoyant stays at 180 which is the rated opening
temperature on the factory t-stat.
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Aloha Quent: You mentioned a bleed valve on the thermostat cover. I wasn’t aware of this. Can you tell this aspiring gearhead how to bleed this. I am aware of the other bleed valve on the manifold as I have completely rebuilt the cooling system (I replaced the old manifold with the newer model as the old one corroded with pinholes…fun project). I’m not at the boat for another few weeks.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama (#135)
Ko Olina, O’ahu -
You just turn them, they screw in (I.e., down) and open and air or fluid will come out. Attest that’s how I did it anyway. Maybe I wasn’t correct.
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On Oct 11, 2011, at 7:25 AM, “kalinowski” wrote:
Aloha Quent: You mentioned a bleed valve on the thermostat cover. I wasn’t aware of this. Can you tell this aspiring gearhead how to bleed this. I am aware of the other bleed valve on the manifold as I have completely rebuilt the cooling system (I replaced the old manifold with the newer model as the old one corroded with pinholes…fun project). I’m not at the boat for another few weeks.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama (#135)
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
What Patrick said. Open the petcock and let the air out, hopefully before the coolant is hot enough to burn you. We have a second one on the upper thermostat housing that is not shown on the W-58 parts list. The housing is a replacement part that we bought after 2001 so maybe Westerbeke improved it. It is on the engine front side, the side that faces aft in the boat.
Our replacement exhaust manifold came with the Westerbeke “Flowtroller” coolant diverter for the heater which has never worked until we added an electric circulator pump. Now it works fine.
Quent -
Aloha Quent: I also replaced my original exhaust manifold pre 1981 with the newer flowtroller unit after one of the elbows on the original disintegrated. (I bought a later edition W-58 for spares and cannibalize it when needed.) Replumbing took some moxy but got it to work.
My upper housing is a solid piece (upper meaning the part you take off to replace the thermostat). Perhaps the one you have is a “newer” version with a bleed valve? The only bleed valve I am aware of is the one on the flowcontroller exhaust manifold. If there’s a bleed valve on the lower thermostat housing, I guess I’ll have to “Gumby” around the corner to find it.
Looking forward to going totally electric and getting rid of this fire breather 58. I’m getting quotes from an electric propulsion company now to repower. No more sound. No more fuel. No more fumes.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Ko Olina, O’ahu -
Do tell us what you end up doing to go electric… Its definitely something I plan on looking so to shown the W58 gives up.
-p
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On Oct 11, 2011, at 6:44 PM, “kalinowski” wrote:
Aloha Quent: I also replaced my original exhaust manifold pre 1981 with the newer flowtroller unit after one of the elbows on the original disintegrated. (I bought a later edition W-58 for spares and cannibalize it when needed.) Replumbing took some moxy but got it to work.
My upper housing is a solid piece (upper meaning the part you take off to replace the thermostat). Perhaps the one you have is a “newer” version with a bleed valve? The only bleed valve I am aware of is the one on the flowcontroller exhaust manifold. If there’s a bleed valve on the lower thermostat housing, I guess I’ll have to “Gumby” around the corner to find it.
Looking forward to going totally electric and getting rid of this fire breather 58. I’m getting quotes from an electric propulsion company now to repower. No more sound. No more fuel. No more fumes.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
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Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
Hi Dan-
A second W-58 in the garage, me too. Easy enough to drill and tap the upper t-stat housing for a petcock, although I doubt that it is worth the trouble. Probably the one on the exhaust manifold is sufficient, otherwise just loosen the hose clamp a bit to let the air out of upper t-stat housing.
Electric is really interesting. I think mostly diesel-electric because the range isn’t there without a genset. Some of the motors aren’t much bigger than the v-drive so it would fit together nicely. Problem is putting that much money into an old boat.
Quent
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