Forums › General Discussion › castles
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Anonymous.
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January 29, 2012 at 7:23 pm #68506
Anonymous
So..I am coming to the conclusion that new chain won’t help, and,5/16th won’t solve the problem. Chain will castle so it needs to be knocked down somehow. Poking a hole in the deck where I can shove a length of small pipe is a clever idea, but not one that I’m willing to do.
I think bringing the chain in to where 50′ or less is left and then clearing the chain pile in the locker, as best as possible, before bringing the rest in may be the way I’ll go. I’ve tried it before and it works most of the time. I’ve also tried bringing the balance of 50′ chain in short lengths at a time pausing every 5′. However even with that move, the chain often castles with 10-20′ left. Then I’m drifting around and, in a busy anchorage, that’s a problem.
The joys of never knowing what lays ahead!
Thanks again,
Joe,
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January 29, 2012 at 9:15 pm #78178
quent
ParticipantJoe-
Had your problem until I added pipe to guide chain aft to deeper spot just forward of v-berth water tank. That allows 50-60 feet of 5/16 chain to pile without castling and jamming windlass.
More than that, we pull it back manually over the water tank. Added an inspection port aft of the v-berth so we could reach in to do that.
Quent
Clairebuoyant, #132 -
January 29, 2012 at 11:36 pm #78179
Anonymous
Quent
How long is your chain in total and how much nylon is there attached??
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January 30, 2012 at 3:47 am #78180
kalinowski
ParticipantWould it be possible to just feed the chain into a converted bow water tank? I’m considering all options for the anchoring setup before I cut and slash. Watermakers are getting better and better.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Ko Olina, O’ahu -
January 30, 2012 at 12:54 pm #78182
Anonymous
Why not? It might be an ideal solution.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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January 30, 2012 at 1:07 pm #78181
quent
ParticipantWe have about 125′ of 5/16 BBB shackled to a similar length of 5/16 HT, no nylon. Most of the chain stays behind the water tank. Only in deep achorages do we have to manually move much chain to avoid castling and jamming the windlass. The 60# Manson has always stayed set on short scope while we moved chain, but that’s mostly in Chesapeake Bay’s easy anchorages.
I think that there are two factors here for minimizing castling. First is to have as long as possible freefall distance from windlass to chain locker. We use a curved plastic pipe to guide the chain aft from the bow to a deeper spot but pipe is short so not to diminish freefall distance.
Second is to have as big a footprint as possible in the chain locker so the chain can spread out. Modified water tank might work if there is still enough freefall distance after you guide the chain there.
Quent -
January 30, 2012 at 2:04 pm #78184
Anonymous
Quent,
Your right on both counts. I’m not sure how Dan envisions using the
forward water tank space, if he goes that route. If I were to use it on
my boat, it would be as the repository for the infrequently used portion
of primary anchor’s rode-&-chain rather than for the whole pile, similar
to how some others among us use the bilge space aft of the tank. I’d
probably have to hand-feed it in, but if done right it would run out by
itself when needed. Meanwhile, unlike using the forward bilge, the
converted tank would maintain the watertightness of the overall chain
locker, which matters to me; keeping the bottom muck out of the boat.
The regularly used portion of the chain, the first 100′ or so, then
should have enough room to settle and pile in my (already modified)
chain locker directly below the windlass.Just thinking out loud.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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January 30, 2012 at 2:47 pm #78185
john stevensonParticipantIt seems to me, using the water tank for chain has the problem of getting
access to pull the chain out of the below decks locker. I think Tor is
right, you would have to manually pull the chain into the tank – it would
not fall naturally from the deck into the tank. That presents the problem
of access without major modifications to the V-Berth. My V-Berth cushion
is one piece and is a PITA to lift or move. If and when I replace that
cushion, it would be with one with a hinge down the center to allow it to
be folded and moved out of the forward cabin more easily. It would still
be a PITA, just less so.As I understand it, Quent’s solution of running the chain into the forward
bilge and cutting an access port below the berth provides access to the
chain while only requiring the V-Berth insert removal.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Jan 30, 2012 at 9:04 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Quent,Your right on both counts. I’m not sure how Dan envisions using the
forward water tank space, if he goes that route. If I were to use it on
my boat, it would be as the repository for the infrequently used portion
of primary anchor’s rode-&-chain rather than for the whole pile, similar
to how some others among us use the bilge space aft of the tank. I’d
probably have to hand-feed it in, but if done right it would run out by
itself when needed. Meanwhile, unlike using the forward bilge, the
converted tank would maintain the watertightness of the overall chain
locker, which matters to me; keeping the bottom muck out of the boat.
The regularly used portion of the chain, the first 100′ or so, then
should have enough room to settle and pile in my (already modified)
chain locker directly below the windlass.Just thinking out loud.
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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January 30, 2012 at 3:12 pm #78187
Anonymous
All true. I had my V-berth cushion cut in half lengthwise a while back.
Much easier to deal with.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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