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Just re-installed my newly rebuilt RV-20 V-drive. Walter did an excellent
job. The unit looks and runs like brand new. I took the opportunity to
clean-Ospho-prime-&-repaint the mounting plates, too, so I’ve got a totally
clean machine. Total cost was about 1/3 of a new RV-26, without the hassles
of reconfiguring the mounts.BTW, Don Walter also convinced me to change the universal joint (where the
V-drive’s jack shaft meets the transmission) while the gear box was out.
After 35 years, the old one was shot! Meanwhile, I discovered there is a
zerk, a grease gun fitting, on that U-joint. Since I never knew about it I
never serviced it, and I’d bet the PO didn’t, either. Not good! My mechanic
buddy suggested I top off the grease (with a grease gun) annually. Good to
know.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Tor,
Glad to see you had the same good experience with Don Walters that I had when I got my RV 20 rebuilt.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On May 7, 2013, at 8:37 AM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:Just re-installed my newly rebuilt RV-20 V-drive. Walter did an excellent
job. The unit looks and runs like brand new. I took the opportunity to
clean-Ospho-prime-&-repaint the mounting plates, too, so I’ve got a totally
clean machine. Total cost was about 1/3 of a new RV-26, without the hassles
of reconfiguring the mounts.BTW, Don Walter also convinced me to change the universal joint (where the
V-drive’s jack shaft meets the transmission) while the gear box was out.
After 35 years, the old one was shot! Meanwhile, I discovered there is a
zerk, a grease gun fitting, on that U-joint. Since I never knew about it I
never serviced it, and I’d bet the PO didn’t, either. Not good! My mechanic
buddy suggested I top off the grease (with a grease gun) annually. Good to
know.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Don gets 2 thumbs up. Nice guy, knows his products and takes time to explain
things to mechanically challenged people like me. A real pro.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I also had my RV-20 rebuilt several years ago and I was pleased with the result.
Steve w
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Agreed, had mine rebuilt this spring. Be sure to ask for the PDFs.
Roger
On May 7, 2013, at 11:31 AM, “Steven Weinberg, Ph.D.” wrote:
Quote:I also had my RV-20 rebuilt several years ago and I was pleased with the result.Steve w
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Roger,
What PDF’s?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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There are a couple PDFs for the V-20. Don has them. One has the correct measurements for setting up the drive shaft as it floats at the v-drive side and needs to be fixed at the correct position on the hollow shaft side. Let me know if you’d like me to email or post them.
One other thing, my drive shaft was heavily pitted, and I replaced it at the same time. Don at Walter Gear can help you with that, if needed.
Roger
On May 7, 2013, at 3:15 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:Roger,What PDF’s?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Besides the PFD’s for setting it up, Walters also has a specially machined key that you use for centering the shift. make sure you get that also.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On May 7, 2013, at 5:30 PM, Roger Bigger wrote:
Quote:There are a couple PDFs for the V-20. Don has them. One has the correct measurements for setting up the drive shaft as it floats at the v-drive side and needs to be fixed at the correct position on the hollow shaft side. Let me know if you’d like me to email or post them.One other thing, my drive shaft was heavily pitted, and I replaced it at the same time. Don at Walter Gear can help you with that, if needed.
Roger
On May 7, 2013, at 3:15 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:Roger,What PDF’s?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Yes I should have mentioned the set up gauge. I can send full contact info on a direct email if needed. Basics below.
Don Chatrnuck
THE WALTER MACHINE COMPANY, INC.
– Established 1927 –
84 – 98 Cambridge Ave
Jersey City, NJ 07307
USARoger
On May 7, 2013, at 5:32 PM, Alan wrote:
Quote:Besides the PFD’s for setting it up, Walters also has a specially machined key that you use for centering the shift. make sure you get that also.
AlanSent from my iPhone
On May 7, 2013, at 5:30 PM, Roger Bigger wrote:
Quote:There are a couple PDFs for the V-20. Don has them. One has the correct measurements for setting up the drive shaft as it floats at the v-drive side and needs to be fixed at the correct position on the hollow shaft side. Let me know if you’d like me to email or post them.One other thing, my drive shaft was heavily pitted, and I replaced it at the same time. Don at Walter Gear can help you with that, if needed.
Roger
On May 7, 2013, at 3:15 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:Roger,What PDF’s?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Thanks, Roger. I’m emailing Don to find out what you’re referring to. He
never mentioned anything to me about PDF’s, set up gauges and specially
machined keys.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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My gauge came on a key ring, has two steps on it. maybe about an inch-long half-inch wide. Made of brass. It’s referred to on the alignment directions
AlanSent from my iPhone
On May 7, 2013, at 5:57 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:Thanks, Roger. I’m emailing Don to find out what you’re referring to. He
never mentioned anything to me about PDF’s, set up gauges and specially
machined keys.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Alan,
Are talking about an ordinary feeler gauge to alight the prop shaft
coupling, or is this something unique to Walter gears?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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OK, I’ll try that again in English:
Are you talking about an ordinary feeler gauge to align the prop shaft
coupling, or is this something unique to Walter gears?Tor
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The “machined key” is what I’m calling the “gauge”. It’s like a fat feeler gauge. It’s small and comes attached to a key fob.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Roger
On May 7, 2013, at 5:57 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:Thanks, Roger. I’m emailing Don to find out what you’re referring to. He
never mentioned anything to me about PDF’s, set up gauges and specially
machined keys.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Walter didn’t send me any such key. Maybe it isn’t necessary for the RV-20,
or maybe they forgot. If it is necessary and I have a V-drive or
transmission problem as a result, I’m sure they’ll stand behind it.Right?
(I’m sure Don will respond to this for all of us, so we’re all clear.)
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Needed for the rv-20.
Although you could measure all around the edge of the shaft with a pair of calipers.
Much easier with the gauge
I’ am sure he would send you one.Sent from my iPhone
On May 7, 2013, at 8:03 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Quote:Walter didn’t send me any such key. Maybe it isn’t necessary for the RV-20,
or maybe they forgot. If it is necessary and I have a V-drive or
transmission problem as a result, I’m sure they’ll stand behind it.Right?
(I’m sure Don will respond to this for all of us, so we’re all clear.)
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Well, I hope he uses Fed Ex. I have already installed the V-drive and I’m
setting sail for St. Maarten in a week, a 1,500 n. mile ocean passage. I’m
kind of counting on this thing to be right. Hard to believe the Walter
factory just forgot to mention any of this to me.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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There are three alignments necessary for the V-drive.
1 – The V-drive must be aligned to the prop shaft coupling. This is very tricky and critical. I find that I must be closer than the specs published by Walter in order to get smooth operation. I forget what tolerance Walter calls out in their manual and I don’t have a copy handy. I think I had to get it to within .002 for smooth operation at up to 1500 RPM on the prop shaft. Patience is needed to get this right. Use feeler gauges. Loosen the flange bolts a bit to expose a bit of space. Rotate the shaft to four 90 degree positions. Measure gap at each of four 90 degree positions on the flange. Move the v-drive accordingly to get the best fit. If rotating the shaft shows a different tolerance, try to spit the difference and get an average gap. If the difference is huge, the flange may be bent. Take the boat out and run her at full speed. If you have vibration, do it all over again.
2 – The V-drive must be aligned to the input shaft. Walter provides a key for this. You slide the key around the shaft and verify that it looks straight and centers the shaft in the shaft seal. This alignment here isn’t critical. You do this before item-1 above. You would have to raise or lower the V-drive or move it left or right to get this correct. You might also move the engine up or down somewhat but this doesn’t do much. Engine position should be adjusted for item-3 below.
3 – The engine must be aligned to the input jack-shaft. You use a steel ruler for this. This isn’t especially critical either but you want this close. The universal joint in the jack-shaft isn’t a CV joint. Misalignment can cause vibration. You move the engine mounts up or down to pitch the engine correctly. If left-right isn’t correct, you’d have to move your engine mounts accordingly.
Removal of the shaft coupling is typically done using a socket. You remove the coupling bolts and lock screw. Pull the shaft back and put a socket between the shaft and V-drive flange. You then re-insert the coupling bolts and tighten them. This forces the coupler off the shaft. BE CAREFUL TO TIGHTEN EVENLY. If you don’t do this evenly you can bend the coupling. When replacing the shaft, it’s best to send the coupler out to the machine shop and have them check it anyway but you don’t want to bend the coupler on the V-drive!
Hope this makes it all clear
Rich
Blacksheep #47
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Rich,
As usual you are a wealth of invaluable information. I knew about step 1, but not the rest. I’m disappointed Walter didn’t provide this with the rebuilt V-drive, along with the centering “key” that others have received.
Presently waiting for Don to return my call for the official factory position on this.
Thanks,
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Tor, as I explained on the phone, the #31A Alignment Gage is supplied
standard with new V-Drives but not repaired V-Drives as it is an unnecessary
additional expense for most boat owners who have it (or their mechanics have
one). Since every inboard drivetrain (V-Drive or straight inboard) should
be aligned every few years (or after each time the boat comes out of the
water and then relaunched), the alignment gage is used over the life of the
boat (not just during original installation) so generally the #31A Alignment
Gage is on the boat. Of course there are exceptions, such as your case,
where the boat changed hands and this was not passed along. I apologize for
not asking you whether you had one, we will send one out today as requested.Best,
Don C.
THE WALTER MACHINE COMPANY, INC.– Made in USA since 1927 –
84 – 98 Cambridge Ave
Jersey City, NJ 07307
USA
(201) 656-5654 – Main
(201) 656-0318 – Facsimile
E-Mail –Disclaimer: This message from The Walter Machine Co., Inc. and any
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In a message dated 5/7/2013 9:08:11 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
writes:Needed for the rv-20.
Although you could measure all around the edge of the shaft with a pair of
calipers.
Much easier with the gauge
I’ am sure he would send you one.Sent from my iPhone
On May 7, 2013, at 8:03 PM, “Silverheels” wrote:
Walter didn’t send me any such key. Maybe it isn’t necessary for the
RV-20,
Quote:or maybe they forgot. If it is necessary and I have a V-drive or
transmission problem as a result, I’m sure they’ll stand behind it.Right?
(I’m sure Don will respond to this for all of us, so we’re all clear.)
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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