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Hi all,
I am looking at a 422 but the caprail seems to be the same on the 424s. Does anyone have any information and photos of how the caprail is attached and what is under the caprail? I am considering using King Starboard AS diamond texture. It works like butter, wears like iron and requires no maintenance. I am just trying to understand what sort of can of worms I may be opening.
Thanks, Risto -
See my article on Plastics (for toe rails) in BWS. Reprint at
http://www.dublerfamily.com/Regina_oceani/Articles/PlasticsBWS0213.pdfAnd subscribe to BWS already!
Pete
On 8/26/2013 9:33 PM, Rlapp wrote:
Hi all,
I am looking at a 422 but the caprail seems to be the same on the 424s. Does anyone have any information and photos of how the caprail is attached and what is under the caprail? I am considering using King Starboard AS diamond texture. It works like butter, wears like iron and requires no maintenance. I am just trying to understand what sort of can of worms I may be opening.
Thanks, Risto_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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I have found that King Starboard expands 1/32″ per lineal foot per 40 degree temperature change. So going from Puget Sound to Sea of Cotez could mean at least 3/8″ per 8 foot section. Any ideas as to how to make the joints and drill oval holes to accomodate this? I had thought a flat half lap joint with oversized holes filled with 4200 or polysulphide (Life calk) might work. Ideas?
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The oversized holes are the ticket as well as using a larger joint between
the planks. As a matter of interest, though, I’m planning to replace my
caprail with ipe, a wood that is much harder, far more dimensionally
stable, and less expensive than any plastic. Also, it doesn’t require any
maintenance. I’ll probably remake my grab rails with it as well. It’s
tough stuff and requires drilling for any fastener.Bob
On Mon, Aug 26, 2013 at 11:28 PM, Rlapp wrote:
I have found that King Starboard expands 1/32″ per lineal foot per 40
degree temperature change. So going from Puget Sound to Sea of Cotez could
mean at least 3/8″ per 8 foot section. Any ideas as to how to make the
joints and drill oval holes to accomodate this? I had thought a flat half
lap joint with oversized holes filled with 4200 or polysulphide (Life calk)
might work. Ideas?_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Risto,
Are you planning to remove the teak cap rail and replace it with plastic?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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I found a very high stretch caulk at Ace Hardware that is amazing for
joints like this. Of course these joints are only cosmetic, they do not
seal water out of the boat.On 8/26/2013 11:28 PM, Rlapp wrote:
I have found that King Starboard expands 1/32″ per lineal foot per 40 degree temperature change. So going from Puget Sound to Sea of Cotez could mean at least 3/8″ per 8 foot section. Any ideas as to how to make the joints and drill oval holes to accomodate this? I had thought a flat half lap joint with oversized holes filled with 4200 or polysulphide (Life calk) might work. Ideas?
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
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Strange as it may sound, the folks at Plasteak advised me to screw the
stuff down tight without oval holes but just slightly oversized holes.
So far, I have seen temperatures from negative 20 F to over 100F without
anything breaking loose. (Colorado… but now in Florida! Yeah!)Pete
On 8/27/2013 7:55 AM, Robert Fine wrote:
The oversized holes are the ticket as well as using a larger joint between
the planks. As a matter of interest, though, I’m planning to replace my
caprail with ipe, a wood that is much harder, far more dimensionally
stable, and less expensive than any plastic. Also, it doesn’t require any
maintenance. I’ll probably remake my grab rails with it as well. It’s
tough stuff and requires drilling for any fastener.Bob
On Mon, Aug 26, 2013 at 11:28 PM, Rlapp wrote:
I have found that King Starboard expands 1/32″ per lineal foot per 40
degree temperature change. So going from Puget Sound to Sea of Cotez could
mean at least 3/8″ per 8 foot section. Any ideas as to how to make the
joints and drill oval holes to accomodate this? I had thought a flat half
lap joint with oversized holes filled with 4200 or polysulphide (Life calk)
might work. Ideas?_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Risto,
I removed and replaced a couple of sections of my caprail a few years back. It’s fastened with wood-screws and bedded with some kind of caulk. Various fittings are through-bolted such as gennoa-track and bow-chocks. The most difficult part would be to remove the track fasteners. Plan on drilling out at least a few of them. Many of the wood bungs in my rail where the cap attaches to the side piece are missing. I’m redrilling and replacing these.If you have your cap off, you might consider running some extra fasteners through the hull-to-deck joint. The seam is held with 5200 which has a 50 year lifespan. I’m not sure what the best method for adding fasteners might be. Perhaps a through-bolt with fender washers every foot or so. The new cap would need cutouts underneath for the bolt heads.
I’m considering removing the coach-roof eyebrow trim this winter and replacing it with a painted stripe or tape. I’m tired of chasing down leaks. Pearson used silicon caulk under it and it’s long-since failed.
Rich
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Risto,
Here’s a beautiful scarf you might want to try with a template and then cut a spline to keep it together, or put in some extra effort and ship lap it. If your comfy with router work, this will show well on your caprail. You don’t have to make it as long as that, even half would look great, like the little picture in the upper left.I recently just finished a job using iroko as a teak substitute below decks. If I was to replace the caprails (which have been overly power sanded) on our up coming new 424 I would definitely consider iroko as a substitute for “bare” teak. At about $7 – $8 BF in small purchases, tough as nails, takes on a beautiful silver sheen when exposed to sun and left bare. I don’t know if it has a pith issue as teak, (over scrubbing) but seems not as likely after working with it, it is much denser than teak.
On the below decks job we did have to stain the iroko to match the existing teak, a 50/50 mix of mahogany and teak stain worked very well.I’ve seen the new plastics and teak substitutes and certainly understand taking that route, the times they are a changing. I am very curious as to how it machines and fastens, but I’m afraid I couldn’t do it for myself.
Have fun,
Ken -
with shipping… about $780. I could have used a thinner stock and
saved about half (and also the weight) but it looks great and it is one
of the first things that was complemented on when I got the boat to
Florida (after the paint job).
On 8/27/2013 9:02 AM, wrote:Quote:Peter,
What did the coaming plasTEAK cost? My coaming trim is tired looking and could use replacement.Rich
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@Tor wrote:
Risto,
Are you planning to remove the teak cap rail and replace it with plastic?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Original Message
I really like King Starboard from a utilitarian standpoint although the idea of using Ipe is intriguing as well. Both have their plusses. I have concerns about the coefficient of expansiOn with starboard and shinkage with ipe.
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Hi Risto,
I’ve tried to reply via the 424 site but my Internet connection is a bit
wonky. Anyway, dried ipe is pretty stable, especially lengthwise – so
although your deck seams opened, the length of the boards didn’t pull away
did they? That’s what you’re looking for in this application.Bob
On Thu, Aug 29, 2013 at 1:52 AM, Rlapp wrote:
@Tor wrote:
Risto,
Are you planning to remove the teak cap rail and replace it with plastic?
Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Original Message
I really like King Starboard from a utilitarian standpoint although theidea of using Ipe is intriguing as well. Both have their plusses. I have
concerns about the coefficient of expansiOn with starboard and shinkage
with ipe.Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Not to spoil the fun, but you could simply paint the old cap rail and go
sailing. A fresh topcoat every 3-5 years is all the maintenance it requires,
and if you put on a few coats of varnish before painting, it’s possible for
some future owner to strip the paint off and retrieve the teak.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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There is that, of course. I’ve chosen to leave it alone. Well, ‘chosen’
means some active mental program that results in an action and may be a far
too strong a word. Let’s say, then, that it is the nature of teak to be
left by itself to fend for itself.Bob
On Thu, Aug 29, 2013 at 8:14 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:Not to spoil the fun, but you could simply paint the old cap rail and go
sailing. A fresh topcoat every 3-5 years is all the maintenance it
requires,
and if you put on a few coats of varnish before painting, it’s possible for
some future owner to strip the paint off and retrieve the teak.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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Amen to that, brother. That has been my approach, too. Unfortunately,
Silverheels’ PO’s apparently scrubbed her cap rail with a bristle brush and
also over-sanded it. The result by the time I bought her was a very course
grain and a lot of wood plugs too thin to stay in place. I sanded down the
grain to a tolerable smoothness and did my best to replace the missing wood
plugs, but some of them refuse to stay put, not having enough depth to grab
the teak around them. That’s as far as I “chose” to go, cosmetically
speaking. As for maintenance, I scrub all the exterior teak every 6 months
or so using a detergent and bleach solution and a 3M pad, followed by a
thorough rinse and 2 or 3 coats of teak oil. The result looks like gold for
about week, then reverts to its natural gray hue, which I prefer to think of
as traditional. (No way am I going to enslave myself to varnish in the
tropics!)Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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