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In 2008 I re-powered Sarah with a Yanmar 4JH4-AE engine. I looked at the
other options (Beta, Cummings, Westerbecke) and decided that Yanmar was the
low-risk choice for reliability, service and parts.
I still think it was a valid decision, but over the past 5 years it has
been devalued repeatedly devalued by Mack Boring and Yanmar.First it was a damper plate on the engine which was DOA as delivered by
Mack Boring, but only determined a failure out of the warranty period.
Mack Boring refused to accept any responsibility for the damper plate
failure, which caused a major re-build of the VD tranny.Now it’s the piece of s–t instrument panel. The original panel failed
while still in warranty and was replaced. The second panel started to show
signs of failure (tach going hard over, hour meter not visible) shortly
after the 2nd warranty expired. I don’t have to tell you what the Mack
Boring response was.Now while I’m waiting for the panel to fail and force me to replace it
(Yanmar wants $800 for a replacement), the inlay sticker that covers the
panel has delaminated and come off the panel. I went to the local Yanmar
dealer to order a replacement for just the sticker. The dealer found the
sticker part number, but it cannot be ordered from Yanmar. The only option
from Yanmar is a new panel. I pressed the dealer to call his distributor
(thankfully Mastry, not Mack Boring). Mastry confirmed that the part could
not be ordered, but did provide contact info on one of their dealers in Ft.
Lauderdale who was having stickers made for some of their customers.
I contacted that dealer and they did provide a sticker for $40.
The saga of this latest Yanmar adventure is documented at
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeRepower.htm#Piece_of_S–t_Instrument_Panel
.Anyone who has a Yanmar panel and encounters the delamination problem can
contact Complete Yacht Service at http://completeyachtservice.com/index.htmIt is sad that the engine has performed flawlessly over the past 5 years
with several thousand hours of operation, but Yanmar and Mack Boring seem
to insist making decisions whose only result is pissing off their customers.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
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John,
I repowered with a Yanmar 4JH4E and, like you, am 100% happy with the
engine. However, the LCD engine hours read-out has just failed, a little shy
of 1000 hours. That read-out is built into the tachometer. From what you’re
saying, replacing the tach may be painfully expensive, especially here in
the Grenadines. Maybe I can rig up a separate engine hour meter, something
simple that works. Ideally, I’d like to start it at the current hours
reading (rather than starting it at zero). Any ideas out there? Are counters
like this pretty common and straightforward?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Guys,
I wonder if your yanmars are new enough to be nmea 2000 compatible. If they have a socket in the wiring loom like under the dashboard of a late model car, you might get your computer or chartplotter to display engine data.
There is also a blue tooth adaptor and an android app that works on our 2002 dodge rv that displays engine data. Cost was low. See amazon for bt adaptor.
re engine hour meter, aka Hobbs meter, easy to find. Basically runs when hooked up to 12 volts. To get to right number of hours, hook it up and note on your calendar when to switch it off.
Quent -
Tor,
I think the simplest solution is a Honeywell meter that you can tie into
the key switch. These are simple mechanical meters that run whenever the
switch is providing power. They are definitely not weather proof and
would have to be installed in the cabin.
I’m not sure if the Yanmar hour meter problem is a failure in the tach or
the circuit board in the panel. If it is in the tach then you might be
able to replace that part (129271-91210)
since this appears to be a standard VDO instrument. I haven’t inquired
about the availability of the component parts of the panel, just what they
call the cover foil.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Fri, Sep 6, 2013 at 2:18 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:John,I repowered with a Yanmar 4JH4E and, like you, am 100% happy with the
engine. However, the LCD engine hours read-out has just failed, a little
shy
of 1000 hours. That read-out is built into the tachometer. From what you’re
saying, replacing the tach may be painfully expensive, especially here in
the Grenadines. Maybe I can rig up a separate engine hour meter, something
simple that works. Ideally, I’d like to start it at the current hours
reading (rather than starting it at zero). Any ideas out there? Are
counters
like this pretty common and straightforward?Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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Thanks, John. That sounds like what I want. I don’t need to read engine
hours in the cockpit anyway. It’s just for fuel consumption estimates and
engine maintenance schedules. But I’ll check with Yanmar about the tach
first.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
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Thanks, Quent. I’m looking for the simplest, lowest-tech solution this side
of a hamster running around a cylindrical cage. The calendar idea is
helpful, though. (What ever happened to those odometers you could “adjust”
with an electric drill?)Quote:
Original Message
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Rich,
I haven’t been to your website for a long time, but I thought you did not
implement the standard panel. I thought you built your own panel, just
used the components from Yanmar. I think the main problem is that this
panel should not be exposed directly to the elements. I have the “C” panel
mounted on the bridge deck where the Westerbeck panel was mounted.
I will eventually replace this panel with something similar to what you did.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Sun, Sep 8, 2013 at 8:53 AM, wrote:
Quote:John,
I have a 4jh4-te and my yacht club has two of the same engines. We’ve had
no problems with the engine or panel instruments. My club has thousands of
hours on the engines.Rich
Original Message
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John,
I used the original Yanmar panel and modified it for my use. I don’t remember doing anything special to keep the instruments dry. My club launches use the original instruments but they are mounted to a custom panel with a clear cover over them.I would have expected the stock panel to keep water out of the instruments. Even at that, when mounted under the bridge-deck, the instruments should stay pretty dry. I have a dodger which keeps the bridge-deck dry. Perhaps that’s why I’ve had no trouble. You have me thinking that I should check the instrument mounting to perhaps add a bead of caulk around the bezels.
Rich
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