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DEAR GROUP:
Seems like we visited this issue not too long ago….
My W-6o is overheating, but only above 1600/1800 RPM’s.
With the exception of being started and run ’til hot about three times,
the engine has basically not been run under load for any significant period
of time.
The raw H2O pump has new impeller, bearing, gasket, belt, and is
delivering a stong flow. (reconditioned post problem)
No collapsed hoses/ little overflow hole in cap assembly reemed and
unobstructed- no lose of fresh water/collant.
The heat exchanger was new 2 years ago (approx 700 hours).My next thought would be the thermostat. is this the next logical step, or
am I missing something?
If correct, I should be able to determine upon examination if it is stuck
or not. Also, I assume I could run the engine under load here at the dock
at 1800 RPM WITHOUT the thermostat and see if it over heats but kinda hate
to do that if perhaps there is something else causing the problem.
ANY THOUGHTS, IDEAS, MUSES, much appreciated, THANKS.
BILL
~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMA
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Had overheating problem due to blocking of inlet raw water line between v drive and raw water pump due to separation of internal wall of water line and blocking of water line. When I cut the line open it looked like scallops were living
in the line. I found it by checking water flow through each section of inlet water lineSteve
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If you have good raw water flow as evidenced by the exhaust outlet, then
I’d suspect three things: 1; an air bubble in the coolant system usually
near the thermostat, 2; bad fresh water pump (hardly ever happens, but it
does happen), and finally 3; thermostat. It could also be that the
aluminum extrusion that is surrounding the exhaust manifold is plugged.
But once again, if there’s good flow out the exhaust, that’s probably not
it.You could try a raw water system flush and a fresh water system flush.
Just don’t mix up the flush materials.Bob
On Wed, Sep 18, 2013 at 3:17 PM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D.
wrote:Quote:Had overheating problem due to blocking of inlet raw water line between v
drive and raw water pump due to separation of internal wall of water line
and blocking of water line. When I cut the line open it looked like
scallops were living
in the line. I found it by checking water flow through each section of
inlet water lineSteve
Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
Reply message
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Bill,
When I had an RPM-related overheat problem with my W60 it was the heat
exchanger, needed to have it cleaned. I also had a problem of an air lock
after replacing the coolant. However that caused an overheat at idle and
no load. The problem was in the coolant hoses to the water heater.
So it does sound to me like the thermostat. If you are reluctant to run
the engine without a thermostat, just install your spare. If the problem
goes away you need a new spare. If it doesn’t you have a different spare.Good luck.
Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Wed, Sep 18, 2013 at 3:22 PM, Robert Fine wrote:
Quote:If you have good raw water flow as evidenced by the exhaust outlet, then
I’d suspect three things: 1; an air bubble in the coolant system usually
near the thermostat, 2; bad fresh water pump (hardly ever happens, but it
does happen), and finally 3; thermostat. It could also be that the
aluminum extrusion that is surrounding the exhaust manifold is plugged.
But once again, if there’s good flow out the exhaust, that’s probably not
it.You could try a raw water system flush and a fresh water system flush.
Just don’t mix up the flush materials.Bob
On Wed, Sep 18, 2013 at 3:17 PM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D.
wrote:Quote:Had overheating problem due to blocking of inlet raw water line between v
drive and raw water pump due to separation of internal wall of water line
and blocking of water line. When I cut the line open it looked like
scallops were living
in the line. I found it by checking water flow through each section of
inlet water lineSteve
Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
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Thanks, Bob & John – good advice.
I have taken the thermostat out & it is not stuck. There was a lot of
white chunky gunk in the housing dome. I suspect this could be silicone from
the “green” antifreeze that is in the system. Just WHY that green antifreeze
in there rather than the “red” is a puzzle. I’ll have to check the log to
be sure, because the mechanic who replace my heat exchanger two years ago
knows better. Because the exchanger is relatively new, I am now suspecting
an air bubble. However, I drained the overflow tank there exists a lot of
“sediment” – dark brown in color. Could be that although new, the heat
exchanger is indeed gunked up with this stuff and/or silicone from green
antifreeze. I guess I will drain & flush the system. Should the discharge contain
the same “gunk” described above, I’ll have the heat exchanger boiled or
install my spare. I’ll then refill with red antifreeze, burp the system and
cross my fingers!
Still hoping to head south by 15 OCT.
tks again, BILL~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMAIn a message dated 9/18/2013 3:23:04 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
writes:If you have good raw water flow as evidenced by the exhaust outlet, then
I’d suspect three things: 1; an air bubble in the coolant system usually
near the thermostat, 2; bad fresh water pump (hardly ever happens, but it
does happen), and finally 3; thermostat. It could also be that the
aluminum extrusion that is surrounding the exhaust manifold is plugged.
But once again, if there’s good flow out the exhaust, that’s probably not
it.You could try a raw water system flush and a fresh water system flush.
Just don’t mix up the flush materials.Bob
On Wed, Sep 18, 2013 at 3:17 PM, Steven Weinberg, Ph.D.
wrote:Quote:Had overheating problem due to blocking of inlet raw water line between v
drive and raw water pump due to separation of internal wall of water line
and blocking of water line. When I cut the line open it looked like
scallops were living
in the line. I found it by checking water flow through each section of
inlet water lineSteve
Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
Reply message
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Bill,
That engine must pump water like a fire hose or it will overheat. You said strong flow below but I mean really strong flow. As I recall, when run at speed, the exhaust has a constant and substantial flow of water, not squirts. There should be no steam coming out of the exhaust either.Flow could be restricted by a corroded water injection elbow or a broken piece of water pump impeller stuck in the system after the pump.
Crud can collect at the heat exchanger and block flow through some of the tubes. This is easy to inspect.
You can remove the thermostat but I don’t recommend running the engine for extended periods until it is replaced. If you go to the trouble of removing the thing you might as well replace it. It’s just a generic automotive thermostat. I think 195deg is the right one. Bring your gasket to the auto parts store so they can match it up.
Corrosion in the V-drive cooling jacket will restrict flow. This is a common problem. When was your v-drive last cleaned?
You might have an air-lock in your fresh-water cooling system. When your engine overheats, does steam come out the water heater pressure release valve? If not, your problem might be on the fresh-water side.
Rich
BlackSheep #47
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I had similar problems with my W58. The wrong (green) antifreeze was gunking up the system. Flushed it and installed the orange stuff. I then discovered that an air bubble was forming in the thermostat housing and causing overheating. The original housing on the (1980) engine had no bleed valve, so I was puzzled. I had purchased a 1982 engine as a parts back up and that housing had a bleed valve. I installed it on the engine and bleeding is now easy.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Keehi Lagoon, O’ahu -
aloha, Dan & Rich, and thank you both for responding. Here’s what’s new
from my last post.
To re-cap, I have ruled out the raw water side, as I installed a new
impeller & belt and have a strong, steady flow shooting 3ft out the exhaust. I
replace the impeller & belts yearly as a precautionary move before going
south. Believe me, after loosing an alternator belt right before an opening
bridge in south Florida, I learned my lesson. Revisiting the WALTER is a good
idea, Rich, as it has been at least two years since GENTLELY reaming that
water jacket out.
But here’s what I have discovered about propylene vs. ethylene glycol
antifreeze – for one thing THEY DON’T MIX, which is kind of a “duh” when I
think about it. The resulting “sludge” I discovered in my overflow reservoir is
what is most likely clogging up my heat exchanger and whatever else. As
mentioned earlier, I’m not sure why my mechanic filled the system with green
stuff following installation of my new heat exchanger two years ago- he
should know better, being top rated in the Deltaville area. Moreover, in
observing the color I don’t know why it did not ring a bell during routine
checks of the system. But carrying only propylene on board, it is very possible
I at some point topped off the system with red stuff, being ignorant of
their incompatibility and thereby creating my problem.
In observing the interior dome of the thermostat housing (no vent, BTW), I
found deposits of small, whitish “chips” which I am now convinced are
silicate deposits from the ethylene glycol. The PO of CHARISMA (then LOON) had,
in lieu of a vented housing, installed a bleed valve in the circulation
hose near the top of the thermostat. Amazing what one can learn about the
personality of a previous owner of your boat by following his (her) tracks!
So with this same mechanic coming over tomorrow morning, the plan is to
thoroughly flush the system, including all hoses and resevoirs, load
Propylene Glycol, burp the system. Should the heat exchanger appear excessively
dirty, we will install my spare 9ten hours running time), which is among the
parts stripped from SEA DUTY’s old W-60, purchased from Chuck when he re
powered this summer.
Any other thoughts, suggestions are of course most welcomed, and I hope
this exchange adds to the collective knowledge base of the “424 BORG”. (ref.
STAR TREK).
MAHALO – BILLIn a message dated 9/19/2013 9:02:06 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
writes:I had similar problems with my W58. The wrong (green) antifreeze was
gunking up the system. Flushed it and installed the orange stuff. I then
discovered that an air bubble was forming in the thermostat housing and
causing overheating. The original housing on the (1980) engine had no bleed
valve, so I was puzzled. I had purchased a 1982 engine as a parts back up and
that housing had a bleed valve. I installed it on the engine and bleeding
is now easy.Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Keehi Lagoon, O’ahu
m2f
Read this topic online here:
https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?p=13023#13023
m2f
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Whatever you do, make SURE that the flush you use in the cooling system is safe for aluminum! After stupidly replacing orange with green coolant and plugging up the system (naive), I tried to flush with a cleaner that I later found out ate aluminum. I had to replace a few parts because of microscopic pin holes. Luckily, I had bought that spare engine and had parts available.
Let us know how it all worked out.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Keehi Lagoon, O’ahu -
VERY GOOD POINT, Dan – thanks for that!
In a message dated 9/19/2013 6:15:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
writes:Whatever you do, make SURE that the flush you use in the cooling system is
safe for aluminum! After stupidly replacing orange with green coolant and
plugging up the system (naive), I tried to flush with a cleaner that I
later found out ate aluminum. I had to replace a few parts because of
microscopic pin holes. Luckily, I had bought that spare engine and had parts
available.Let us know how it all worked out.
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Keehi Lagoon, O’ahu
m2f
Read this topic online here:
https://www.pearson424.org/bb2forum/viewtopic.php?p=13029#13029
m2f
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