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Getting down to some of the cosmetics in my refit. The rub rail was damaged by the PO and the stainless strip ripped off. Of course the section in the middle with matching strips fore and aft.
I measured exactly 20′ and purchased a new strip that is exactly 20′. However when I hold one end tight against the adjoining strip the other end has about a 3/8″ gap on the other end.
I think it’s because the new strip is a bit wavy and I am unable to hold it tight against the teak. So the question is, how to install the new strip so it will be flush on both ends. I have two ideas.
1. Since the hull is curved, I can hold the middle of the strip over the teak against the gull giving me some extra slack allowing me to hold both ends of the new strip tight against the adjoining strips. Start screwing from each end until the strip is secured and then pull the middle back over the edge of the rub rail and sink the rest of the screws. My concern with this method is the strip will be too tight and I won’t be able to pull the strip over the edge of the teak.
2. Start attaching on one end and work down the strip. This will flatten the strip, take out the waves and wobbles in the strip and when I get to the end it will be flush. With this method, if it doesn’t straighten and flatten the strip I’ll get to the end and still have a gap.
So, anyone ever do this job? Vote for plan A or plan B?
Thanks
Skip -
wouldn’t it make more sense to start in the middle and go to each end?
that way regardless the ends will either be on or they will be off by
the same amount…– pat
skipmac wrote, On 5/13/14, 8:16 PM:
Getting down to some of the cosmetics in my refit. The rub rail was damaged by the PO and the stainless strip ripped off. Of course the section in the middle with matching strips fore and aft.
I measured exactly 20′ and purchased a new strip that is exactly 20′. However when I hold one end tight against the adjoining strip the other end has about a 3/8″ gap on the other end.
I think it’s because the new strip is a bit wavy and I am unable to hold it tight against the teak. So the question is, how to install the new strip so it will be flush on both ends. I have two ideas.
1. Since the hull is curved, I can hold the middle of the strip over the teak against the gull giving me some extra slack allowing me to hold both ends of the new strip tight against the adjoining strips. Start screwing from each end until the strip is secured and then pull the middle back over the edge of the rub rail and sink the rest of the screws. My concern with this method is the strip will be too tight and I won’t be able to pull the strip over the edge of the teak.
2. Start attaching on one end and work down the strip. This will flatten the strip, take out the waves and wobbles in the strip and when I get to the end it will be flush. With this method, if it doesn’t straighten and flatten the strip I’ll get to the end and still have a gap.
So, anyone ever do this job? Vote for plan A or plan B?
Thanks
Skip_______________________________________________
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@patn wrote:
wouldn’t it make more sense to start in the middle and go to each end?
that way regardless the ends will either be on or they will be off by
the same amount…– pat
Arghh!!! I was already confused and now you think up a third option.
But if I start on one end I will have at least one end right. But is it better to have one end right and one end off or both ends off a little? But they’re 20′ apart so if one end is on you won’t even see the other end from there but which end would I rather have on, the one by the bow or the one by the cockpit?
Maybe if I start on one end and the other is off I can cut a sliver off the old strip (which of course I saved) and glue it in the gap.
This is giving me a headache. Think I’ll go to bed and think about it some more.
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Robert Fine wrote, On 5/13/14, 8:35 PM:
If the gap is the same as the strip length, start on one end an be
careful there are no bends away from the curve.Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on
my phone.On May 13, 2014 9:33 PM, “pat noordsij” <
> wrote:wouldn’t it make more sense to start in the middle and go to each
end? that way regardless the ends will either be on or they will
be off by the same amount…– pat
skipmac wrote, On 5/13/14, 8:16 PM:
Getting down to some of the cosmetics in my refit. The rub
rail was damaged by the PO and the stainless strip ripped off.
Of course the section in the middle with matching strips fore
and aft.I measured exactly 20′ and purchased a new strip that is
exactly 20′. However when I hold one end tight against the
adjoining strip the other end has about a 3/8″ gap on the
other end.I think it’s because the new strip is a bit wavy and I am
unable to hold it tight against the teak. So the question
is, how to install the new strip so it will be flush on both
ends. I have two ideas.1. Since the hull is curved, I can hold the middle of the
strip over the teak against the gull giving me some extra
slack allowing me to hold both ends of the new strip tight
against the adjoining strips. Start screwing from each end
until the strip is secured and then pull the middle back over
the edge of the rub rail and sink the rest of the screws. My
concern with this method is the strip will be too tight and I
won’t be able to pull the strip over the edge of the teak.2. Start attaching on one end and work down the strip. This
will flatten the strip, take out the waves and wobbles in the
strip and when I get to the end it will be flush. With this
method, if it doesn’t straighten and flatten the strip I’ll
get to the end and still have a gap.So, anyone ever do this job? Vote for plan A or plan B?
Thanks
Skip_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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From cstewart How about you take it all off and start at the bow and come aft, butting each piece to the next so there are no gaps.
And from Robert Fine
If the gap is the same as the strip length, start on one end an be
careful there are no bends away from the curve.From careful measurements I think the gap is exactly the length of the new piece. My preference is to follow Robert’s suggestion because it seems like less work (my lazy bone strikes again) and I see a lower risk of creating a big headache and having to take it off and start over again if it doesn’t work out perfectly.
The suggestion to remove all the strips and start over does give me an idea. Redoing the whole side would be a bit of a pain because the new screw holes would almost match or just miss the old ones so to get the new screws to hold I would have to first plug all the old screw holes (about 120 if I recall). But the old strip from the bow is relatively short so here’s my new plan.
Start screwing the new strip flush at the aft end and work my way forward. If I reach the forward end and I’m flush or close enough then I’m good. If I’m off and the gap is more than I can live with then remove the short strip going to the bow, plug those screw holes and reattach.
Thanks all for the ideas and suggestions. I love group think.
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If it’s too long, before you put the last couple of screws in, push it into
place. Mark where you want it, use a dremel tool to cut it properly (or if
you’re good with a hacksaw use that). Then finish screwing it down.
You’ll want to drill a hole about 1/2 to 1″ from the end, small enough to
be a pilot hole for the screw you’re going to use, and then use a
countersink to put the countersink into the strip. Put the final screw
in. Go have a beer or two.On Wed, May 14, 2014 at 4:58 PM, cstewart wrote:
What if it is too long?
(just said that to give you something else to think about)
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951_______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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@cstewart wrote:
What if it is too long?
(just said that to give you something else to think about)Too long I got a grinder to fix that, Too short I don’t think my board stretcher works on stainless and my wife won’t let me buy a new steel stretcher.
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I think you can just up the voltage on your old board stretcher.
On Wed, May 14, 2014 at 5:25 PM, skipmac wrote:
cstewart wrote:
What if it is too long?
(just said that to give you something else to think about)Too long I got a grinder to fix that, Too short I don’t think my board
stretcher works on stainless and my wife won’t let me buy a new steel
stretcher._______________________________________________
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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@madsailor wrote:
I think you can just up the voltage on your old board stretcher.
That will do the trick. The stretcher is 12V DC. I’ll plug it into 240V AC. Should give me 20 times more power. Might even be good enough to stretch titanium.
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That should do it!
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On May 14, 2014 9:11 PM, “skipmac” wrote:madsailor wrote:
I think you can just up the voltage on your old board stretcher.
That will do the trick. The stretcher is 12V DC. I’ll plug it into 240V
AC. Should give me 20 times more power. Might even be good enough to
stretch titanium._______________________________________________
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