Forums › General Discussion › V-Drive Splined Shaft
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Anonymous.
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August 18, 2014 at 3:17 pm #68967
Anonymous
Anyone have a cheap source for the splined (10-spline) 12″ long 1″
diameter keyed shaft that goes into the input of the v-drive? (variously
called a #27 splined connect shaft or a 20-12)? Mine is worn and bent
and appears to be the source of terrible vibration. Apparently it was
loose at one time and wore. I have been chasing this vibration problem
for months now…(I have searched high and wide for an off-the-shelf part instead of
paying the $194 for the Walter part).Many thanks!
Pete
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August 18, 2014 at 3:27 pm #81377
Anonymous
Hey Pete,
I’m sure the good-ole’-boy machine shop here at Green Cove
Springs Marina could make one for you on his lathe, using the
original as a template. He makes prop shafts all the time, does
excellent work, and doesn’t charge an arm and a leg:Coats Custom Machine and Fabrication
4013 Red Cove Rd
Green Cove Springs, FL
(904) 529-1758Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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August 18, 2014 at 4:10 pm #81378
Anonymous
Do not know where to by a cheap one, but you can buy one from Walter. I replaced mine several years ago and I remember it was not too expensive.
Steve
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August 18, 2014 at 5:46 pm #81379
quent
ParticipantOne problem we had with that shaft is that they tend to rust and tear up the v-drive o-ring. I think that if I had to have one fabricated, I’d use a piece of stainless prop shaft.
Quent -
August 22, 2014 at 4:12 pm #81380
Anonymous
The expensive piece is the jack shaft. Be careful not to damage it. It can be very difficult to remove the spined shaft from the jack shaft. Mine was rusted in place. No amount of force would remove it. I ended up welding a bolt to the end of the shaft and I slipped a piece of pipe over the thing followed by a steel plate with a hole in it. This let me tighten a nut over the bolt to pull the old shaft out.
Rich
I’m sure the good-ole’-boy machine shop here at Green
original as a template. He makes prop shafts all the time, does
excellent work, and doesn’t charge an arm and a leg:Coats Custom Machine and Fabrication
4013 Red Cove Rd
Green Cove Springs, FL
(904) 529-1758Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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August 22, 2014 at 7:01 pm #81381
Anonymous
Turns out the machine shop that checked the balance of the jack shaft
with the new splined shaft got the splined shaft stuck in the jack
shaft. I ended up drilling the center hold of the splined end up to
5/16″ and tapping it to 3/8-16. This provided a way to bolt an angle
iron (ss actually) across it which allowed the shop to use their press
the push the jack shaft off of the splined shaft. Of course the machine
shop is 45 minutes away… Of course I did not realize how stuck it was
until I got it back to the boat… They then properly cleaned and reamed
the bore of the jack shaft to eliminate the sticking spot. But man oh
man, was it stuck… Repainted and goes in tomorrow so hopefully I have
now solved the vibration problem. Gonna coat the splined shaft and bore
with Fluid Film… wonderful stuff that.Oh the boat life…
Pete
On 8/22/2014 12:12 PM, re.carter— via maillist wrote:
Quote:The expensive piece is the jack shaft. Be careful not to damage it. It can be very difficult to remove the spined shaft from the jack shaft. Mine was rusted in place. No amount of force would remove it. I ended up welding a bolt to the end of the shaft and I slipped a piece of pipe over the thing followed by a steel plate with a hole in it. This let me tighten a nut over the bolt to pull the old shaft out.Rich
I’m sure the good-ole’-boy machine shop here at Green
original as a template. He makes prop shafts all the time, does
excellent work, and doesn’t charge an arm and a leg:Coats Custom Machine and Fabrication
4013 Red Cove Rd
Green Cove Springs, FL
(904) 529-1758Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
Original Message
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