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Hi All,
Figured it was time to show off the ‘new’ Miss Kathleen.
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/117161376876600674340/albums/6062936452982899617
Following the damage done when a 23 ton ferro yacht broke it’s mooring in the marina in a recent storm causing some severe rubbing away of the rubbing strake and cap rail we took a leap and gave the old girl a facelift.
Insurance companies have tightened up and as a result would only do a patch up and cut & polish on one half of the hull. Needless to say we had no choice but to have the other side done.
There were quite a few dings and crazes in the gelcoat which required grinding and filling. The costs began to soar. Further, in a year or two the difference between the patch job and old gelcoat would show.
We took the plunge and using the insurance contribution had the topsides repainted. The results are spectacular as seen in the link above. I highly recommend Gloss Boats in Auckland if any of you are ever down this way!
At the same time – since the masts were removed – we sorted the halyards and wiring. Really looking forward to not hearing the wires clanging around whilst at anchor. Riggers battled to remove the mizzen at it had bonded to the base. They were able to remove the base once the mast was down, and did consider cutting the bottom off.
Also had a fitting installed for a storm sail just above the spreaders and fittings for running backstays. Kinda like the idea of a cutter setup.
We are now putting everything back together as we prepare for the summer sailing season.
Cheers
Dennis
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Dennis,
Miss Kathleen looks fantastic! Such a beautiful hull will
certainly add to the pleasure of ownership.I added a small staysail (that reefs down to a storm sail) to
Silverheels’ rig a few years ago. I also rigged running backstays
to support it, but find that the mast is so thick and stiff that
I probably didn’t need them. Still, since they’re there I set
them when going to windward offshore, where there is more
pounding and tacking is infrequent.I’d be interested to know what your rigger did to back up the
staystail stay’s deck fitting. I went to elaborate lengths to
strengthen the foredeck against pulling up. As with the running
backs, though, I may have been overestimating the power of that
small sail. The beefy L-backing plate I made, which ties the
foredeck to the chain locker’s structural bulkhead, may have been
overkill. Or maybe not in the long run. I wonder how others have
approached it.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Re: Miss Kathleen Facelift
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Dennis: Â She’s beautiful and looks the way my girl does in my mind’s eye (not quite there yet). Â Curious, what is your hull number?
Â
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Keehi Lagoon, O’ahu
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Nice pix! When I bought my boat almost 30 years ago, I had her topsides awlgripped. With varnished brightwork and a new coat of high-gloss paint, she looked better than brand new. When the paint is new, dirt won’t stick to the slick surface. A quick wipe with mild cleaner and a rinse will take the dirt off. The gloss only lasts about 7 years or so however. Once the gloss is gone, dirt sticks to it just like it does to worn gelcoat. There is no need to ever wax the topsides.
My pockets aren’t deep enough to have a professional job done very few years so my wife and I have repainted her using roller and tipping brush three times now. The process of applying a two-coat poly on the topsides isn’t that big a deal. There’s a lot of info out there on how to do it. Briefly, most of the work is preping the old surface. A good orbital sander helps. Several very thin coats are needed. Once the boat is painted once, refreshing the paint is easy, perhaps easier than polishing and waxing. No primer is needed and if you’re applying the same color. Only two coats are needed. We can apply one coat in a day so we can repaint the topsides in a weekend. If your boat has never been painted, plan on three additional days for prep-work, primer, and additional coats. You also need staging, enough to run down one side of the boat. I have heavy duty shelves in my garage that I take down and use for staging, together with a bunch of saw-horses. It only takes about an hour to paint one side of the boat once you get setup.
Contaminates such as wax on the topsides must be completely removed. That’s why I suggest avoiding wax. If they start looking dull, we just repaint. The do-it-yourself job isn’t as good as a professional spray job but it’s less than 1/10 the price. If you get close, you can see brush strokes. From 20 feet however, you can’t tell the difference.
The 2-part poly paint is too slippery for the deck however. I’m still looking for a durable and easy to apply coating for the deck. I’ll try a Pettit Easypoxy next spring. I tried EZ-Decks last year in my cockpit, but there is way too much non-skid in there.
Now if I could only find a simple process for maintaining the brightwork. I’ve used Cetol for about 25 years now and I hate the stuff. I tried Semco natural this year on the cockpit coaming and I had great results. It’s more like a water-seal than a coating. There is no build-up. The teak looks like it’s just been cleaned and sanded. Application is easy but it needs several coats. The only issue is that the stuff goes on like water. It’s fine for horizontal surfaces but I have no idea how it can be applied to vertical surfaces without having it run all over the place.
Rich
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We did not really realise how the hull had degraded over the years. I guess that falls in the category of “Beauty is in the eye of the beholder”!
My wife was keen to have the deck done but the budget was already bust! The cost of the deck is approximately twice that of the topsides.
It is very tempting to do a cut & polish on the deck so as to complement the topsides, but this will create other problems when we do a roll & tip on the deck – also planned for this year. Fortunately most of the deck is made up of non-skid zones, so this reduces the need to get a “gloss like” finish (in theory).
Staysail – the rigger only fitted the mast end. I have yet to make up the fitting for the deck. Noting some of the comments in the forum, this area (anchor locker) will be beefed up.
We always had a pumping mast problem when the wind picked up – may be due to rigging tension or flapping halyards, anyway, the running backstays will solve this.
We had the caprails and rubbing strake sanded back with plans to apply oil. The debate on oil/varnish is never ending, and whilst I was away on a business trip my dear wife applied some varnish because it looks good. As a result she has now been afforded the responsibility of maintaining these items!
We used a product called Uroxsys. It is a tough product that has since been taken over by one of the larger paint companies, with a price to suit.
We used this to varnish the interior after taking it down to wood – mainly to get rid of the red tinge that been applied in the past.Dan – I will advise on the hull number when I dig it up.
Cheers
Dennis
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Install a Solent stay. I had one and flew a high cut Yankee on it and made good upwind progress with it.
Norris Larson, formerly of Easy Reach, #206
On Thu, 9/25/14, Miss Kathleen via maillist wrote:Subject: Re: Miss Kathleen Facelift
To: ,
Date: Thursday, September 25, 2014, 2:57 PMWe did not really realise
how the hull had degraded over the years. I guess that falls
in the category of “Beauty is in the eye of the
beholder”!My wife was
keen to have the deck done but the budget was already bust!
The cost of the deck is approximately twice that of the
topsides.It is very
tempting to do a cut & polish on the deck so as to
complement the topsides, but this will create other problems
when we do a roll & tip on the deck – also planned for
this year. Fortunately most of the deck is made up of
non-skid zones, so this reduces the need to get a
“gloss like” finish (in theory).Staysail – the rigger only
fitted the mast end. I have yet to make up the fitting for
the deck. Noting some of the comments in the forum, this
area (anchor locker) will be beefed up.We always had a pumping mast problem when the
wind picked up – may be due to rigging tension or flapping
halyards, anyway, the running backstays will solve this.We had the caprails and
rubbing strake sanded back with plans to apply oil. The
debate on oil/varnish is never ending, and whilst I was away
on a business trip my dear wife applied some varnish because
it looks good. As a result she has now been afforded the
responsibility of maintaining these items!We used a product called
Uroxsys. It is a tough product that has since been taken
over by one of the larger paint companies, with a price to
suit.
We used this to varnish the interior
after taking it down to wood – mainly to get rid of the red
tinge that been applied in the past.Dan – I will advise on the hull number when I
dig it up.Cheers
Dennis
m2f
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m2f
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The original topping lift line from the masthead to the end of the boom was some generic kind of three-strand, possibly polyester. I replaced it several years ago with a steel wire, thin lifeline wire. The mast no longer pumps in a breeze. Beware however. The original mail halyard shackle can catch on the thin steel wire, making dousing the main difficult if this happens. I replaced the original halyard a few years back and the new fitting doesn’t snag the wire. An ultra low-stretch rope, perhaps stayset-x might work as well as the wire. My suspicion is that the old topping lift had a bit of flex in it and would strum a tune like a guitar in a breeze causing the whole rig to resonate.
Rich
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