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Hello all,
We are relatively new owners of a P424 ketch (#189) and have been busy with improvements/changes, etc.. I am contemplating changing the mizzen sheet arrangement and am curious if anyone else has done what I am considering. I’d like to move the ‘working’ end of the mizzen sheet from the mizzen mast to the taffrail. I envision adding a double becket block to one of the mizzen boom bails, for mechanical advantage, as I’ll have no winch, just a jam cleat…similar to a dinghy or beach cat mainsheet arrangement. I think this will clean up the cockpit a bit, allow the helmsman easier access to the mizzen sheet, and reduce the complexity of waterproofing the space between the dodger and the bimini. I think the taffrail can take the additional stress. Any comments?
David Tye
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David,
That’s how mine is set up, a big improvement over the original
idea. My pushpit (taffrail) is reinforced to take the strain.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Right idea. On the lower block, use a fiddle block with cam cleat,
becket, and snap shackle. Garhauer 30-08 US is ideal.
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=11Having the snap shackle is nice for moving the boom and rigging outboard
at anchor and helpful if you have solar panels over the davits so there
is no shadow cast on the panels.upper block: 30-01US (fiddle block with adjustable shackle. Be sure to
run the set screw in so the block does not spin and loop up the line.Pete
On 10/8/2014 8:09 PM, typhoontye via maillist wrote:
Hello all,
We are relatively new owners of a P424 ketch (#189) and have been busy with improvements/changes, etc.. I am contemplating changing the mizzen sheet arrangement and am curious if anyone else has done what I am considering. I’d like to move the ‘working’ end of the mizzen sheet from the mizzen mast to the taffrail. I envision adding a double becket block to one of the mizzen boom bails, for mechanical advantage, as I’ll have no winch, just a jam cleat…similar to a dinghy or beach cat mainsheet arrangement. I think this will clean up the cockpit a bit, allow the helmsman easier access to the mizzen sheet, and reduce the complexity of waterproofing the space between the dodger and the bimini. I think the taffrail can take the additional stress. Any comments?
David Tye
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Set up as we’re discussing, I instantly end-for-end the mizzen
sheet blocks, clipping the cam cleat block to the boom bale, for
raising/lowering the outboard motor to and from its rail mounting
pad. The blocks & tackle are ideally positioned and very
convenient for this.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Also went that way. When sailing downwind I move the tackle to one of the
padeyes for the running backstay, which gives me a better sheeting angle on
the boom. A few years ago I added a second tackle to the mizzen to provide
better control of the mizzen in strong winds when doing this maneuver.
http://www.svsarah.com/Sarah/ewUpgradeDeckRig.htm#Running_Rigging_-_Mizzen_MastRegards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Wed, Oct 8, 2014 at 9:51 PM, Pete Dubler via maillist <
> wrote:Right idea. On the lower block, use a fiddle block with cam cleat,
becket, and snap shackle. Garhauer 30-08 US is ideal.
http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=11Having the snap shackle is nice for moving the boom and rigging outboard
at anchor and helpful if you have solar panels over the davits so there is
no shadow cast on the panels.upper block: 30-01US (fiddle block with adjustable shackle. Be sure to
run the set screw in so the block does not spin and loop up the line.Pete
On 10/8/2014 8:09 PM, typhoontye via maillist wrote:
Hello all,
We are relatively new owners of a P424 ketch (#189) and have been busy
with improvements/changes, etc.. I am contemplating changing the mizzen
sheet arrangement and am curious if anyone else has done what I am
considering. I’d like to move the ‘working’ end of the mizzen sheet from
the mizzen mast to the taffrail. I envision adding a double becket block
to one of the mizzen boom bails, for mechanical advantage, as I’ll have no
winch, just a jam cleat…similar to a dinghy or beach cat mainsheet
arrangement. I think this will clean up the cockpit a bit, allow the
helmsman easier access to the mizzen sheet, and reduce the complexity of
waterproofing the space between the dodger and the bimini. I think the
taffrail can take the additional stress. Any comments?David Tye
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Cool idea, Pete, switching the sheet block to the running back
padeye. Why didn’t I think of that?😉
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That’s how I stow the mizzen boom to keep the solar panel clear.
Pardon the brevity. I’m typing this on my phone and I hate typing on my
phone.
On Oct 9, 2014 9:45 AM, “Tor via maillist” wrote:Quote:Cool idea, Pete, switching the sheet block to the running back
padeye. Why didn’t I think of that?😉
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I have a follow on question, I think for Pete, but anyone who has a response: What diameter mizzen sheet is used with the Garhaeur blocks that Pete recommended? I checked their catalogue, but can’t find ‘maximum diameter line’ listed for their blocks. My mizzen sheet is 7/16″, and is new, so I want to be reasonably sure it will work with the Garhaeur 30-08 and 30-01 before I order. Thanks again…
David
Blue Moon, #189 -
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Re: Mizzen sheeting
Author:
Aloha David:
ÂÂ
Did you replace the old mainsheet traveler with a Garhauer unit?  If so, which model did you select?  I’m eyeing this as my next upgrade and am looking for recommendations.
ÂÂ
Dan Kalinowski
Jolly Lama #135
Keehi Lagoon, O’ahu
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You can use the 39 or 40 series. Looking at it this weekend, mine is actually 40 series.
Pete
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My original quote is pasted below. The prices have no doubt changed. I went with a straight car that overhangs the bridge just a bit. The overhang allows the car adjustment lines to pass directly down to a turning block I mounted on the bridge. The overhang can catch the mainsheet on a gybe if you aren’t careful. I’ve been thinking of some kind of rod that would run from the end of the traveler to the deck near the grab-rail to keep the mainsheet from snagging. My car is straight instead of curved. A curved track would fit better and would be lower. I went with the straight track because I think the bearings will take the load more evenly and therefore be more robust. I put a teak shim on the top of the bridge to fill in the space.
I don’t have any photos here at work. I’ll try to grab one tonight.
Rich
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Guido made a traveler for our 424 and the support brackets for it. We
used six single 60-Series blocks (one with a becket), instead of fiddle
blocks, and one stand-up one on the deck and one cheek block on the deck
(that’s 3 blocks on the boom, and three on the traveler) . Traveler
control lines both to the starboard side and come foot blocks to turn
them. Works great. Now I can’t understand when any traveler would
separate the control lines to opposite sides.Pete
On 10/13/2014 2:01 PM, re.carter— via maillist wrote:
Quote:My original quote is pasted below. The prices have no doubt changed. I went with a straight car that overhangs the bridge just a bit. The overhang allows the car adjustment lines to pass directly down to a turning block I mounted on the bridge. The overhang can catch the mainsheet on a gybe if you aren’t careful. I’ve been thinking of some kind of rod that would run from the end of the traveler to the deck near the grab-rail to keep the mainsheet from snagging. My car is straight instead of curved. A curved track would fit better and would be lower. I went with the straight track because I think the bearings will take the load more evenly and therefore be more robust. I put a teak shim on the top of the bridge to fill in the space.I don’t have any photos here at work. I’ll try to grab one tonight.
Rich
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Peter: Your name came up last weekend at the Annapolis Sailboat Show. I was pricing some Garhauer gear at their booth and your name came up when I told them I had a P424 ketch. I told them I had seen your beautiful SS mainsheet track and that’s why I was interested in Garhauer. I am replacing blocks for the mizzen, and am also looking very hard at the Garhauer SS rigid boom vang. I bought the Garhauer becket block (2 1/2″ ball bearing wheee, there is no model no. on it) The rigid vang they recommended has a boatshow price of $350. I thought that was a good price. Comments? I too had thought about moving the mizzen sheet back to the stern-rail with a camcleat on a mainsheet becket block. After hearing all of this, now I wish I had made the change.
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Just out this weekend on the boat and was telling Jill how much I loved
the traveler and the vang as I was twisting the sail. Be sure to get
rope clutches for the vang and traveler . I have the 14 Series clutches
on my traveler, vang, and preventer lines. 11-Series clutches on the
mast for the code zero and storm jib halyards. The 14 Series seems
right for the vang and preventer lines but is a bit of overkill for the
traveler. But they cost the same, so dealer’s choice. (Note that the
14 Series handle points toward the load when it is clamped down…
opposite the usual clutches, but there is a sticker on the bottom to
remind you when you install them).Pete
On 10/13/2014 4:50 PM, cstewart via maillist wrote:
Peter: Your name came up last weekend at the Annapolis Sailboat Show. I was pricing some Garhauer gear at their booth and your name came up when I told them I had a P424 ketch. I told them I had seen your beautiful SS mainsheet track and that’s why I was interested in Garhauer. I am replacing blocks for the mizzen, and am also looking very hard at the Garhauer SS rigid boom vang. I bought the Garhauer becket block (2 1/2″ ball bearing wheee, there is no model no. on it) The rigid vang they recommended has a boatshow price of $350. I thought that was a good price. Comments? I too had thought about moving the mizzen sheet back to the stern-rail with a camcleat on a mainsheet becket block. After hearing all of this, now I wish I had made the change.
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose sight of the shore."
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