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Happy New Year!
Prepping the decks for paint. Removing all deck penetrating hardware, over-sizing the old holes and back-filling the holes with FRP rod and thickened West System. New holes will be drilled through the FRP rod improving deck compression characteristics.
The stanchion mating surfaces are all flush with the deck and it would seem to me that if the mounting surface were just a bit higher than the deck it would mitigate potential leaks. The boat probably sheds more dew than rain and sea water so the elevation doesn’t need to be significant. Additionally the pads will define where the hardware gets installed after the paint has been applied. Presently they reside in a non-skid area. Not the best area to seal hardware. The elevated mounting surfaces would not get GripTex applied.
Found this http://www.albergsailboats.org/about-the-triton/national-triton-association/mir/deck-and-cockpit/133-stanchion-base-repairs-another-approach.html solution, and I’m thinking of doing the same but using 1/8″ G10 for the pads and glassing them directly to the deck. G10 machines well and with a router a bullnose could be created on the perimeter.
Anybody else made this mod?
Also, there was a rubber pad under each stanchion base. Silicone was used to seal the mounting hardware. The system worked well, all the core is sound. Thinking a pad of Buna-N under each might not be a bad idea as it worked for as long as it did. Anybody else have this setup? Remove and replace or eliminate?
Core was in good shape around existing holes. Decks are still rock solid.
Removed the anchor roller extension. Cleaned up the myriad of holes that were underneath it. Looking at ideas for a new two anchor roller extension.
I’ll add some photos soon.
Chuck
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Hello Chuck,
My opinion is that you are overthinking this thing. I don’t think there is much value added in elevating your stanchion bases. However, if your stanchion bases are like mine, the fiberglass to which they are mounted (the deck) is cracked and weak. I too will be refinishing my decks in the near future. My plan on the area where the stanchion bases are attached is to grind out the upper layer of glass and core material, to a perimeter that is outside the existing boundary of the stanchion bases… then building that area back with solid glass/epoxy resin, eliminating the balsa core. This will result in an incompressible area on the deck, with no possibility of water intrusion into the core. Then I will replace the existing fiberglass layup backing plates with 1/4″ aluminum plates, and remount the stanchion bases in 4000 or 4200. I’ve done this with one base already and it worked fine and looks great. It’s super solid and there is no water intrusion below decks. Anyway, that’s my thought on the subject. Good luck!
David Tye
Blue Moon, #189 -
I would agree with this. If you are already overdrilling the holes, filling with glass rods or epoxy or whatever and redrilling for the mounting bolts AND if you properly bed the stanchion bases with marine grade butyl tape then I think the raised base would be extra work for no benefit, at least for leak prevention.
But my decks are also cracked around the stanchion bases, worst on the stanchions where the lifeline gate opens since those stanchions were used by the PO as a hand holds to climb on board. I considered replacing the pads under the bases but needed to get that particular job finished and put that on hold. I will probably go back when I have time and do this, just because pulling on the stanchions I think will further crack the fiberglass. Probably only cosmetic unless the cracks get really bad and spread beyond where I filled around the holes with thickened epoxy.
I replaced the fiberglass backers with SS plate. A bit more work than Al (acutally a lot more work, especially drilling the holes) but I have a phobia about mixing SS and aluminum. Doing some work on the mast and 9 out of 10 SS bolts holding the mast hardware twist off and I have to drill them out. #@#%^$#!!!!!
And I do highly recommend butyl tape as the best stuff on the planet for bedding most deck hardware. Here’s a link to an excellent article on the subject. http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware
If you aren’t familiar with Compass Marine (on several forums with the handle Maine Sail) he may be the most meticulous person I’ve ever encountered in regard to boat repair and maintenance.
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My gate stanchions needed attention a few years back. I removed them and cut a hole slightly smaller than the bases just through the top layer of glass. I then used an Allen wrench to dig out the core back about an inch. I filled the space up with thickened epoxy. No more soft deck under the bases.
Rich
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David: that’s exactly what I did. I have now replaced/repaired 4 stanchions and have put off doing the ones on the foredeck. It has worked great with the drilling out and vacuuming of the old core under the stanchions as far as I could reach (about 6 inches diameter) and then filling with epoxy. Then I re drilled and bolted down with 1/4″ aluminum plates and 4200 seal. That alone has dried out my cabinets and storage spaces that were getting moisture from the leaking stanchions. Chuck, The raised base might help in some cases, but mine have not leaked a bit without it, and I don’t see a need to go to the trouble. I commend you on pulling all the hardware off the deck in your upfitting. That alone is a lot of work. I am curious about what you plan to put on the decks for non-skid. My boat is going to need a non-skid re-do soon.
Charlie
OneEighty #54 -
Thanks for the feedback. The other reason for putting a thin riser with the same profile as the stanchion base on the deck is after painting there won’t be any question as to where the stanchion gets mounted. This pretty much ensures the new holes I drill for the mounting hardware penetrate the epoxied rod instead of nearby deck.
I agree with the updated backing plates and eliminating the old glass ones.
Chuck
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I’ve been planning to put a shim under the aft gate stanchions to raise the lifeline a bit and better clear the winches.
Rich
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