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None of the small inverter generators will make hot water and charge my
batteries at the same time and I have no way to turn off my Heart inverter.
This leaves charging the battery as the only task for a small generator. I
need to run my engine anyway for an hour each day for the frig. This pretty
much keeps up with charging the batteries unless I watch a lot of TV. I
installed a smallish widescreen TV with a satellite dish so I can watch the
baseball game (Red Sox) and the History channel. If I watch a lot of TV, I
might need to run the engine an extra hour. This isn’t all that often.
Being able to charge my batteries from a generator isn’t really worth
spending a grand to me. It would be nice to have a backup power source
should I need it. This sounds to me like a $200 problem, maybe $400 at the
most.A quick look on craig’s list shows dozens of generators in my local area.
There are three or four 1kw inverter generators within a few miles. I’ll
look at one tomorrow that is posted for less than $200. Its used. It may
have some scratches on it and maybe even some rust. In a few weeks time
even a new one will start to show the effects of salt-air, so used works for
me. I plan to stow it under the cockpit table. I’ll see how noisy it is
and where it fits when in use. I may put it on the swim platform when in
use. I’m hoping that it has enough poop to run the microwave oven. I can’t
make popcorn off the inverter.I’ll pick up a jiggle-siphon at walmart to fill it from the dinghy tank. My
dinghy has oil-injection, so the gas isn’t mixed. It will be a pain to drag
the dinghy tank up ondeck to siphon into the generator, but I don’t expect
to do it often.Rich
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Hi Rich,
I bought a new EU2000 a couple of years ago when I was living on the mooring (which I enjoyed immensely, I might add). It would heat water and charge the batteries if I used it daily for about an hour. If I went for the full 4 days I could without charging (the yacht club had showers) then I'd have to do one or the other because the initial charge rate would be in the 60+ amp range. Once it was down to 15 to 20 amp charge rate or less I could pop the water heater on.
If you're going to run the engine regardless, then the only purpose I can see for the generator is for that day when you run your batteries so low you can't start the engine. You could save yourself a few hundred dollars and just forget the generator – or, if you're messing with the radio a lot which I'm sure uses a great deal of power on transmit….
Bob
On Mon, Jul 13, 2009 at 9:25 PM, Rich Carter < ([email][/email])> wrote:
None of the small inverter generators will make hot water and charge my
batteries at the same time and I have no way to turn off my Heart inverter.
This leaves charging the battery as the only task for a small generator. I
need to run my engine anyway for an hour each day for the frig. This pretty
much keeps up with charging the batteries unless I watch a lot of TV. I
installed a smallish widescreen TV with a satellite dish so I can watch the
baseball game (Red Sox) and the History channel. If I watch a lot of TV, I
might need to run the engine an extra hour. This isn't all that often.
Being able to charge my batteries from a generator isn't really worth
spending a grand to me. It would be nice to have a backup power source
should I need it. This sounds to me like a $200 problem, maybe $400 at the
most.A quick look on craig's list shows dozens of generators in my local area.
There are three or four 1kw inverter generators within a few miles. I'll
look at one tomorrow that is posted for less than $200. Its used. It may
have some scratches on it and maybe even some rust. In a few weeks time
even a new one will start to show the effects of salt-air, so used works for
me. I plan to stow it under the cockpit table. I'll see how noisy it is
and where it fits when in use. I may put it on the swim platform when in
use. I'm hoping that it has enough poop to run the microwave oven. I can't
make popcorn off the inverter.I'll pick up a jiggle-siphon at walmart to fill it from the dinghy tank. My
dinghy has oil-injection, so the gas isn't mixed. It will be a pain to drag
the dinghy tank up ondeck to siphon into the generator, but I don't expect
to do it often.Rich
BlackSheep #47
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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
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I heated shower water this morning via the EU2000i. It took 15 minutes to get the water comfortably warm. Another 5 and I would’ve had to add some cold water to the mix.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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At that rate, Tor, the gallon in the generator's tank will last for a week or more at 15 minutes a day. I'm happy I got mine. I'm sure you'll be happy with yours!
Bob
On Tue, Jul 14, 2009 at 8:39 AM, Silver Heels < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I heated shower water this morning via the EU2000i. It took 15 minutes to get the water comfortably warm. Another 5 and I would've had to add some cold water to the mix.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Hey guys (Bob, Tor, Rich), I need some help. Bearing in mind I know little about basic electrical stuff, here’s my issue. I have an old lousy falling apart solar panel on my doghouse that’s like 24 by 19, inches, says “Solartex” on it, and has wires disappearing below. I would like to replace it without having to re do the whole electrical system, etc. How should I go about eye balling this? I have tried to find the old panel on line to see its output, and cannot find it anywhere. I find references to solartex but the co itself I can’t find their site. Is it possible you think to replace the panel with say a 30W to 50W panel that fits in the same space and then just replace the controller/regulator it was connected to, or, is something else required? What else should I be looking for and checking?
Thanks
Wavemaker
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Bob
I have dual alternators and a dedicated starter battery. I can’t conceive of a situation where I couldn’t start my engine due to lack of power. I’ll be getting one simply to be able to charge my batteries in those infrequent situations when the one hour each day of engine running time isn’t enough. This happens when we watch too much TV. My flat-screen TV uses about 200W. It should also do a better job of running the microwave oven too. It will also be handy to lend out to a buddy when he can’t start his engine because he ran his batteries down. It won’t make hot water, but I get hot water from the engine anyway. I have this otherwise unused space under the cockpit table. A Honda EU1000 will fit under there.Regards
Rich
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Hi Rich,
Then you're good to go! It's also handy for beach parties where you have to run guitar amps….
Thatcher, installing a solar panel is spectacularly easy. The one you have is probably 20 watts or less depending on the age. Newer panels are far better and you can get 50-60 watts in the same space. I placed a 130 watt panel across my dodger and it fits with lots of room to spare…
Generally speaking, if you have no controller then the panel is 12 watts or less, virtually useless unless all you're doing is keeping the batteries topped off. Often, they will have an internal controller of sorts. I'd go ahead and go to someplace like affordablesolar.com and find a panel that gives you the most power in the space you have available (and let me know which one as I'd probably add it to mine, as well). At that size, you can run your instruments but not the autopilot. But it will keep a considerable bank of batteries charged.
If I'm not mistaken, the Solartex panel was an inexpensive battery maintainer and was of low efficiency. Try to find where the wires go – I expect somewhere near the battery combiner switch, and look for a little funky looking black box that may say 'solar controller' on it. That's the best I can tell you. Good luck!
Bob
On Tue, Jul 14, 2009 at 9:30 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Bob
I have dual alternators and a dedicated starter battery. I can't conceive of a situation where I couldn't start my engine due to lack of power. I'll be getting one simply to be able to charge my batteries in those infrequent situations when the one hour each day of engine running time isn't enough. This happens when we watch too much TV. My flat-screen TV uses about 200W. It should also do a better job of running the microwave oven too. It will also be handy to lend out to a buddy when he can't start his engine because he ran his batteries down. It won't make hot water, but I get hot water from the engine anyway. I have this otherwise unused space under the cockpit table. A Honda EU1000 will fit under there.Regards
Rich
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Thatcher
Solar panels are rated for open-circuit voltage and rated current at typical load. They normally need a voltage regulator, but small panels can be directly wired to large battery banks. As a rule of thumb, if the rated current for your panel is less than 3% of your battery rating in amp-hours, you can skip the regulator. If for instance you have a 100AH battery bank, you could directly connect a 3A solar panel with no regulator. This assumes that your battery use would be typical, weekends and such. If you expect to leave the batteries on charge and not used for weeks at a time, don’t do this. All solar panels need a blocking diode to prevent loss in the panel when its dark. Some panels include the blocking diode and regulators all have a blocking diode. Regulators have power loss. They typically drop about 1.2V. If you charge your batteries to 13.8v, you need a solar panel that puts out 15v at rated load minimum. I’d recommend 16v. Some panels put out less. If the panel is rated for 14v, you can’t use a regulator and if it doesn’t include a built-in isolation diode, you can’t add one.If your panel shows signs of corrosion inside the glass, its hosed. The next most common failure is corrosion where the wires connect to the panel. When the sun is shining on the panel, connect a voltmeter to the wires where they connect to the panel. You should read somewhere between 13 and 16 volts. If you read higher, the panel probably isn’t connected to anything, possibly a defective regulator, blown isolation diode or broken wire. If you read zero volts, there’s likely a short somewhere or the wires aren’t connected to the panel properly. If you read somewhere below 12v, your panel may be damaged.
What you’ve described sounds like a tiny solar panel, something in the one-amp range. I wouldn’t bother replacing it. If you want to charge your batteries, you’ll need a bigger panel. What you’ve described is barely big enough to trickle-charge your bank.
Harbor freight has a regulator for $20. I don’t know how good it is, but there’s not all that much in there to go wrong.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96728I don’t recommend their solar panels.
Hope this helps
Regards
Rich
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Hi Bob, thanks.
I think I am going to go with the Sunsei 4000 direct from the Mfr in Montreal. I want a unit rated at high amps in a 5 hour day to charge enough to keep the refrigerator going. The 4000 will give me 20 amps in 5 hour day, so, off we go.
Question. AM I correct that the lines OUT of the old controller go to the batteries?
And that the new lines go from the cell to the controller and thence to the batteries?
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Rich, I am going to go with the Sunsei 4000 and their controller. 20 year warranty. I am told it’ll give me 20 amp hours of juice a day assuming a N America 5 hour charge day, and that should keep the refrigerator going.
I am told I should take out the old panel, take out the old controller, put in the new panel and controller, and replace the battery connections from the old controller to the new one. Is it that simple?
Appreciate your thoughts.
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Thatcher,
Yes, it should be that simple. Use heavy gauge wire, number 8 should be good for up to a 30 foot run. Putting the controller close to your batteries would let you go up a size to 10AWG. Don’t forget to fill-in any holes from the old panel to keep water out of your doghouse.
Rich
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Hi Thatcher,
I wonder where you got 20 amps in a 5 hour day? If you've taken the 65 watt rating or the 'up to 4 amps' on the advert, you'll be terribly disappointed. First, the ratings are based on a perfect scenario, i.e. bright sunlight at 90 degrees to the panel at a particular watt-hr/sq. meter. This rating is so you can compare apples to apples when comparing panels. You will be lucky, with the panel laying horizontally, to gather 60% of the rated output.
Even in the best installations with tracking and proper angles and all it's hard to get 6 hours of peak output per day. You'll be swinging with wind and current and your panel will almost never be aligned properly with the sun.
I don't mean to put a damper on your panel installation – far from it! I just want you to know that you will not get the 20AH per day you're expecting. Their rating of 65 watts is 16.5 volts * 4 amps (really 66 watts). That's not to say they're not useful – they are, especially when you're away from the boat. Also, it means longer times between generator runs.
Bob
On Tue, Jul 14, 2009 at 11:29 AM, Thatcher A. Stone < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Hi Bob, thanks.
I think I am going to go with the Sunsei 4000 direct from the Mfr in Montreal. I want a unit rated at high amps in a 5 hour day to charge enough to keep the refrigerator going. The 4000 will give me 20 amps in 5 hour day, so, off we go.
Question. AM I correct that the lines OUT of the old controller go to the batteries?
And that the new lines go from the cell to the controller and thence to the batteries?
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Well, that’s what their tech support claims based on data collection and field testing. N America in a Summer 12 hour day, you’ll get the equivalent of a 5 hour day. SO they are saying you get 55% efficiency. 5 hours at 4 amps gives you a 20 amp hour day.
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Rich, All good advice and planned. I use 5200. Is that what you would use? The unit I am using is a 65 W unit with a diode controller.
As always, your advice and Bob’s too is SOOOOO helpful.WAVEMAKER
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Bob,
I’m running the generator a LOT more than 15-minutes a day right now – more like several hours until I get the fridge compartment properly insulated. After a break to entertain company this week, I’ll be putting in the insulation directly. (Have already cut the first layer’s pieces.) When it’s done I expect to run the generator maybe an hour a day, and not at all when the breeze is up and the wind generator is putting out. Solar panels are also in my future, but not at the top of the list yet. In any case, I’m happy to have the EU2000i for all the obvious reasons.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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In a message dated 7/14/2009 8:34:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time, writes:
then the only purpose I can see for the generator is for that day when you run your batteries so low you can’t start the engine.
…they’re also great for running microwaves, coffee makers, power tools, heat guns, etc., not to mention Christmas lights in George Town! For a couple of hundred, go for it – there are far more wasteful ways to throw money at the boat, and the security of knowing you have that source of power out in the boonies is well worth it – just my 2 cent’s worth.
BILL
~~~ ~ (_~~ (_~ ~ ~ fair winds ~ ~ (_
Capt Bill Tice, aboard s/v CHARISMA, Deltaville, VA
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I’m not clear on who is saying what in the email below. Bob “rb” fine has already stated his enthusiasm for these auxiliary generators, and I gather Bill on Charisma also finds them useful.
Here’s my take on it: If I get to the point that my wind generator and (future) solar panels invariably keep my house batteries topped off on the hook while the 12V refrigeration and all my other 12V consumers hum merrily along day after day, AND if my inverter proves capable of powering ALL my AC needs including my hungriest power tools (and maybe someday a hookah), then I might sell the EU2000i I recently bought. I sure won’t keep it just in case I can’t start the engine. I always keep one battery in reserve, topped off and isolated, just for starting the engine.
Meanwhile, I’m finding the portable generator (which is running as I write) a relatively thrifty convenience, giving me the power to decide what energy hogs I want to run when and for how long.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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the local kragen had 1200 watt chinese ones for like $129.
I dunno how they can even ship them for that price. But if it worked
6 months it’s probably a deal.On Jul 13, 2009, at 6:25 PM, Rich Carter wrote:
None of the small inverter generators will make hot water and charge
my
batteries at the same time and I have no way to turn off my Heart
inverter.
This leaves charging the battery as the only task for a small
generator. I
need to run my engine anyway for an hour each day for the frig.
This pretty
much keeps up with charging the batteries unless I watch a lot of
TV. I
installed a smallish widescreen TV with a satellite dish so I can
watch the
baseball game (Red Sox) and the History channel. If I watch a lot
of TV, I
might need to run the engine an extra hour. This isn’t all that
often.
Being able to charge my batteries from a generator isn’t really worth
spending a grand to me. It would be nice to have a backup power
source
should I need it. This sounds to me like a $200 problem, maybe $400
at the
most.A quick look on craig’s list shows dozens of generators in my local
area.
There are three or four 1kw inverter generators within a few miles.
I’ll
look at one tomorrow that is posted for less than $200. Its used.
It may
have some scratches on it and maybe even some rust. In a few weeks
time
even a new one will start to show the effects of salt-air, so used
works for
me. I plan to stow it under the cockpit table. I’ll see how noisy
it is
and where it fits when in use. I may put it on the swim platform
when in
use. I’m hoping that it has enough poop to run the microwave oven.
I can’t
make popcorn off the inverter.I’ll pick up a jiggle-siphon at walmart to fill it from the dinghy
tank. My
dinghy has oil-injection, so the gas isn’t mixed. It will be a pain
to drag
the dinghy tank up ondeck to siphon into the generator, but I don’t
expect
to do it often.Rich
BlackSheep #47
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Wow. Even better if you can hook two of them up together and get 2400 watts for $258. That would be ample power for most of our needs. But first check the Chinarator’s weight, dimensions, fuel consumption and noise levels compared to the pricier generators (which are probably also made in China), just to be sure you’re getting something you’ll actually want to use.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Rich, thanks. I am going with the Sunsei 65 watt panel, the SE 4000. And a regulator.
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OK. I am familiar with compounds from my aircraft building days. Thanks Rich.
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Link them for more power! Yeah right!
I know the honda is quiet and works good, so that’s what I did. But I was tempted by it.
I figure their 1200 watts lis likely more like 800. THe engine looks like a Briggs and stratton copy.
Just trowing it out there. If it rusts out it’d make a good anchor for the dinghy or something.On Jul 14, 2009, at 6:06 PM, Silver Heels wrote:
Quote:Wow. Even better if you can hook two of them up together and get 2400 watts for $258. That would be ample power for most of our needs. But first check the Chinarator’s weight, dimensions, fuel consumption and noise levels compared to the pricier generators (which are probably also made in China), just to be sure you’re getting something you’ll actually want to use.Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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I just figured out how to disconnect my battery charger. (I do some of my best thinking in the shower.) My Heart inverter/charger is connected to the battery selector switch so I can charge either bank or both. If I select neither bank, the charger will feed my breaker panel, but neither battery will charge. This means that a Honda E2000 generator would make hot water. When making hot water, I’d have to disconnect the batteries via the selector switch. When the water heater finishes heating the tank, I could turn off the water heater breaker and turn the battery bank back on. The only issue is to remember to reconnect the battery before starting the engine, otherwise I’d blow the diodes in the alternator. Normally, the boat won’t start the engine with the selector off, but if the generator were running and someone hit the starter button it would probably damage the alternator.
I’m still going with a used E1000 generator. If I find room to conveniently mount the bigger E2000, I might upgrade later. Getting rid of a used E1000 should be pretty easy. Once folks at my Yacht club see how convenient it is, they’ll all want one.
Rich
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Rich,
I'm not sure what will happen to your battery charger without the ballast provided by the batteries, but it might not be good. Also some 12v electronics may not like the direct output of the charger.
My Xantrex charger has a switch setting to act as a 12V power supply rather than a charger. I've used that in the past when the batteries were temporarily removed from the boat, but I was still living on board.
I'd consult your battery charger manufacturer before trying what you describe.On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 9:08 AM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:I just figured out how to disconnect my battery charger. (I do some of my best thinking in the shower.) My Heart inverter/charger is connected to the battery selector switch so I can charge either bank or both. If I select neither bank, the charger will feed my breaker panel, but neither battery will charge. This means that a Honda E2000 generator would make hot water. When making hot water, I'd have to disconnect the batteries via the selector switch. When the water heater finishes heating the tank, I could turn off the water heater breaker and turn the battery bank back on. The only issue is to remember to reconnect the battery before starting the engine, otherwise I'd blow the diodes in the alternator. Normally, the boat won't start the engine with the selector off, but if the generator were running and someone hit the starter button it would probably damage the alternator.I'm still going with a used E1000 generator. If I find room to conveniently mount the bigger E2000, I might upgrade later. Getting rid of a used E1000 should be pretty easy. Once folks at my Yacht club see how convenient it is, they'll all want one.
Rich
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Hi Thatcher,
I just set it on on the aft starboard corner of the cockpit seat (with the cushion removed), so close to the shore power plug back there that I only need the short adapter to connect it. It is a little awkward, though, because I want the exhaust outlet facing to port so it blows into open space and not towards the cabin. That way the exhaust tends to rise and blow away astern. (If any sinks into the cockpit well it will drain out through the cockpit drains, which exit the hull above the waterline.) What’s awkward about it is that in this position the starter cord is facing the aft cockpit combing, so I have to lift and turn the whole generator 45-degrees to get at the cord to start it, then straighten the unit back so the exhaust is aimed to port. Not a big deal, just not ideal. Haven’t come up with anything better yet. (Hmm, maybe I can rig an exhaust hose to redirect that. Then I could position the generator more conveniently.)
Here’s the thing about placement. There’s another boat in this harbor right now with his portable generator set up on a transom swim platform. That’s real nice for him because he probably hardly hears it running. However, it’s not so nice for everyone else in the anchorage because the noise ricochets off his transom and carries across the water so we all have to hear it – and the turkey sometimes runs it well into the evening. Selfish fellow, if you ask me. In fact, anyplace you put a portable generator on deck, other than in the cockpit, it’s going to broadcast maximum noise to your neighbors. Where I have it there is at least some (I believe significant) baffling effect from the high cockpit combing surrounding the machine. Of course, I endeavor to run it only when I’m not hanging out in the cockpit.
Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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That’s good info. I don’t want to be the guy everyone loves to hate. SO here is how I am progressing. I got Sunsei to sell me their 65 watt unit that’s out of fashion color wise for 200 bucks less than the current stylishly colored model. It’s in their on line discount shop. I’ll see if that addresses drain from the fridge. If so I am done. If not I’ll consider the genset.
My only issue is, the photocell I am replacing, I don’t know if it charges the engine batteries (2) or the house banks. SO we will have to see.
Thanks for this data. PS your photos inspired us to go flat screen and so we bought a small flat screen TV and put it near the 120v plugs where the clunker TV had been. Wunderbar.
WAVEMAKER
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Rich
I thought that being able to disconnect the batteries was a must so you can service the 110 system without the danger of the inverter powering up the system so that’s how I installed mine. Maybe it’s just me being paranoid again.
Linus
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Linus
I have a Heart inverter/charger. My inverter has an on/off switch. This turns off the inverter, but doesn’t disconnect the battery charger. I’ve been bitten by this many times when connected to shore power. I’ve disconnected the battery switch so that I work on a 12v circuit forgetting that the charger is still feeding the breaker panel. With only 12v on the circuit, there’s little danger of serious injury, but it can still give you a burn. If I want to service my 115v wiring, I simply pull the main AC breaker. The inverter isn’t normally on anyway.My inverter is mounted in the back shelf in the hanging locker. This makes it very awkward to reach the on/off switch. I connected switch and a remote relay where the switch was. I added a toggle switch to the breaker panel that controls the relay. The switch has three positions “on-off-auto”. The “auto” position closes the relay when the engine is running (from the key). The “on” position closes the relay even if the ignition switch is off. The “off” position of course leaves the inverter off. I normally leave the switch in the “auto” position. When the engine is running, the 115v outlets in the boat are energized. I can run the microwave when the engine is running. If I want to watch TV or use a power tool when the engine is off, I turn it to the “on” position. I don’t microwave stuff when the engine is off because it’s a battery killer. With a small generator, I should be able to microwave stuff without turning the engine on. I pick up the Honda EU1000 generator tomorrow afternoon.
Rich
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I was told that the 2000 outsells the 1000 like 11 to 1
The size and price difference between them is so small, I’d encourage you
to rethink that and get more than you think you need. The 1000 could be
overwhelmed pretty easily, and it will be running harder all the time.Quote:Linus
I have a Heart inverter/charger. My inverter has an on/off switch. This
turns off the inverter, but doesn’t disconnect the battery charger. I’ve
been bitten by this many times when connected to shore power. I’ve
disconnected the battery switch so that I work on a 12v circuit forgetting
that the charger is still feeding the breaker panel. With only 12v on the
circuit, there’s little danger of serious injury, but it can still give
you a burn. If I want to service my 115v wiring, I simply pull the main AC
breaker. The inverter isn’t normally on anyway.My inverter is mounted in the back shelf in the hanging locker. This makes
it very awkward to reach the on/off switch. I connected switch and a
remote relay where the switch was. I added a toggle switch to the breaker
panel that controls the relay. The switch has three positions
“on-off-auto”. The “auto” position closes the relay when the engine is
running (from the key). The “on” position closes the relay even if the
ignition switch is off. The “off” position of course leaves the inverter
off. I normally leave the switch in the “auto” position. When the engine
is running, the 115v outlets in the boat are energized. I can run the
microwave when the engine is running. If I want to watch TV or use a power
tool when the engine is off, I turn it to the “on” position. I don’t
microwave stuff when the engine is off because it’s a battery killer. With
a small generator, I should be able to microwave stuff without turning the
engine on. I pick up the Honda EU1000 generator tomorrow afternoon.Rich
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Here’s the thing about placement. There’s another boat in this harbor
right
now with his portable generator set up on a transom swim platform. That’s
real nice for him because he probably hardly hears it running. However,
it’s
not so nice for everyone else in the anchorage because the noise ricochets
off his transom and carries across the water so we all have to hear it –
and
the turkey sometimes runs it well into the evening. Selfish fellow, if you
ask me.I agree. I’ve seen that at the moorings in Catalina, and that setup also
physically puts the generator closest to your neighbor. (and too close to
the water IMHO) I saw one where the guy had the generator suspended on a
rope off his jib to isolate vibration on his deck, and the front of his
boat was probably 30 feet or less from the back of his neighbors cockpit.
Elevated like it was it was probably a straight shot down the other guys
companionway.
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Aaron,
Yes, I’m aware of the capacity limitation. Here’s an interesting article.
http://www.campinglife.com/output.cfm?ID=1112113I went down to a local power equipment dealer and physically measured what they have available. The Yamaha EF2400 is way too big. The EU2000 is only slightly larger than the EU1000, but it won’t fit under my cockpit table. I took a look in the classifieds and on craig’s list and see no EU2000’s listed. Even if I could find one, there is no convenient space to stow it. Too bad the tank isn’t removable. That would make it easy to refill and you could just stow the tank in a wet-locker and stow the unit below after running it dry. It might even be possible to share the dinghy tank with the generator. I made that suggestion to Honda years ago in a nicely worded letter. They ignored the suggestion.
I’m supposed to look at an EU1000 tomorrow. I have yet to negotiate a final price on the unit. The seller is asking $375. I’ll see what condition it looks like and try to adjust the price. I doubt the EU1000 will have enough power to run my microwave but I’ll try it out. I figure that if I can redo the space under the table someday I might fit the EU2000, or maybe someone will come out with a smaller unit. I’m pretty sure I can resell the EU1000 for about what I’ll pay for it at a later date.
If I had 12v refrigeration like most folks, I’d probably favor the EU2000 because it can make hot water (if you either reduce or disconnect your battery charger). You folks will have to find or make a place to stow it.
Regards
Rich
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Hey, Rich,
I stow my EU2000i quite happily between the mizzen and pedestal. There's even room for a 2 gal. can of gas (I don't like straight gas in lockers, especially in the heat).
Bob
On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 4:12 PM, < ([email][/email])> wrote:
Quote:Aaron,
Yes, I'm aware of the capacity limitation. Here's an interesting article.
http://www.campinglife.com/output.cfm?ID=1112113I went down to a local power equipment dealer and physically measured what they have available. The Yamaha EF2400 is way too big. The EU2000 is only slightly larger than the EU1000, but it won't fit under my cockpit table. I took a look in the classifieds and on craig's list and see no EU2000's listed. Even if I could find one, there is no convenient space to stow it. Too bad the tank isn't removable. That would make it easy to refill and you could just stow the tank in a wet-locker and stow the unit below after running it dry. It might even be possible to share the dinghy tank with the generator. I made that suggestion to Honda years ago in a nicely worded letter. They ignored the suggestion.
I'm supposed to look at an EU1000 tomorrow. I have yet to negotiate a final price on the unit. The seller is asking $375. I'll see what condition it looks like and try to adjust the price. I doubt the EU1000 will have enough power to run my microwave but I'll try it out. I figure that if I can redo the space under the table someday I might fit the EU2000, or maybe someone will come out with a smaller unit. I'm pretty sure I can resell the EU1000 for about what I'll pay for it at a later date.
If I had 12v refrigeration like most folks, I'd probably favor the EU2000 because it can make hot water (if you either reduce or disconnect your battery charger). You folks will have to find or make a place to stow it.
Regards
Rich
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Bob
I’ve got cockpit table mounted there. There’s room for a small generator under the table, but height and width are restricted. If I were to make my own table, I’d plan the dimensions properly so that a generator would stow below. I estimate that it would take about $250 in materials and about 100 hours to make a replacement. Not something on my to-do list yet.http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/pix/binnacleJPG.jpg
Regards
Rich
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