Do these have the “lower foot rail” or is there a design with more bars than in this photo?
https://www.pearson424.org/gallery/Pelican-Mast-Rails/IMG_0403

-p

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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

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Pat,

Yes, the mast pulpit in that photo has the optional, lower step rail. That’s all there is.

I almost didn’t order mine with that option, but I did and it turns out I use it a lot more than I ever expected.

Tor
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Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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For those of you with pulpits: How did you mount them? Did you install a backing plate? Any “unique” problems locating them on a ketch? I plan to purchase a set (my last cartoon style move to the forward deck off of Koko Head cinched my decision).

Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu

Hi Dan,

They come with backing plates.  The only caveat is that you'll have to chop up some of the plywood cleats under the coach roof to do the job properly.

Bob

On Thu, Jun 25, 2009 at 8:26 AM, kalinowski < ([email][/email])> wrote:

For those of you with pulpits: How did you mount them? Did you install a backing plate? Any “unique” problems locating them on a ketch? I plan to purchase a set (my last cartoon style move to the forward deck off of Koko Head cinched my decision).

Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu

—
Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

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Quent,

Attached is my final-final drawing for these pulpits, from which Railmakers made them all, though I seem to recall they made the top railing curve a bit shallower due to the limits of their tooling.

I mounted mine asymmetrically to accommodate my right-handedness – the center of the port rail just about exactly even with the athwartships centerline of the mast; the starboard rail offset aft about 6″ from that centerline. The way to find your best fit is to prop up the rails with lines or whatever BEFORE doing any mount drilling. Then stand in them and go through the motions of the various things you do up there – cranking the halyard winch(es), fussing with the reef cringles & lines, and so on. I did this over a period of several days, adjusting the rails’ position in relation to the athwartships centerline, and also the distance outboard from the side of the mast, until I had them exactly where they seemed most efficient and comfortable for me. As for your jib sheet track, if you send a photo or two showing its position in relation to the mast I could give you an opinion (just an opinion!) of whether I think it’ll be a problem.

Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Dan,

As Bob said, the mast pulpits come with a set of pre-drilled, circular stainless steel backing plates. There are no mounting issues intrinsic to the ketch rig. The minor PIA part of the installation is taking down the headliner panels in the salon to gain access to the underside of the coachhouse, and (also as Bob said) you may have to cut away parts of the cleats under there, the strips of plywood glued to the underside of the coachhouse to which the salon overhead panels and their teak trim attach. It’s not a real big deal, though.

Tor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Silver Heels, P-424 #17
http://www.SilverHeels.us
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Open message to those who have not yet installed these and who are on
the fence

First of all, (for better or worse) I am the helmsman on our boat. On
more than one occassion over the past ~10 yrs of owning our boat, it has
terrified me to have David on deck while I tried to hold the boat
“steady” as he was trying to reduce sail (too late – of course). We
have never had an accident in these situations but I have always felt
it was only a matter of time. The pulpits have taking a huge load off.
Dave finds them comfortable to work in. They are solid. They are tall
enough for him (6′ 7″) and not uncomfortable for me (5 ‘6″). I love the
middle rung.

Installing them took a wkend. We drilled out appropriate sized holes,
filled the holes with solid epoxy and then installed the pulpits the
next day.

I originally hesitated because it was yet another $500+. I now think
they were a bargain.

– pat

On 6/24/09 4:37 PM, quent wrote:

This from Railmakers:

Mr. Kinderman, I have two pairs left. One pair with the lower foot
rail $525.00 pair, and one pair with out $425.00 pair. The foot rail
could be added if wanted. Pricing does not include shipping and
handling. I’ll need several days to polish and package rails. I can
also make another pair if needed there are two more emails regarding
the same mast pulpits. Thank you, Dave.

First come, first served.
Quent

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Aloha to All

We have mast pulpits installed on island muse and love them. Tors details are spot on. if were to make a reccommendation it would be to add eye lets at the base connections. its a great location to pin your haylards so they stop clanking on the mast. Dan you are welcome to stop by and have a look I am at Da Store! (fuel dock). Ours has backing plates under the coach roof and the bolts go clear thru the roof liner, not sure i like that but (no leaks yet). The liner does not appear to be indented form the backing plates so i am assuming that we have a spacer backing for the gap between the deck and liner.

the thru bolting appears to be solid as a rock, but as i said i am a little unsure of the potential for leaks???

that’s my 2 cents, i can send out pics if someone is interested.

jb

I just ordered some for Deep Playa as well. He said he’d have to make them up since some of you bought the last two he had laying around. He gave the same price as for the others.

-p

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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com
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To all with installed mast pulpits:

What size bolts/nuts did you use to correctly mount the pulpits? With a potential Matson shipping strike, Home Depot’s stock might be running thin. I don’t want to spend an afternoon wandering around O’ahu trying to find a simple fastener so I hope to buy them before I go on island.

Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne II (#135)
Honolulu

I spoke to the guy at Railmakers today (seems like he made about $1500 today off us this week) and he said they holes were drilled to 1/4″. This is also confirmed on the spec in the drawing Tor sent out earlier as well.

-p

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s/v Deep Playa | Pearson 424 #152 | http://www.DeepPlaya.com

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All this talk is pulling me into another project. Is railmakers.com the correct web site?

Linus

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yep

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I am purchasing a set of mast pulpits and the guy at Railmakers said he would throw in the fasteners, but needed to know what length bolts to include. For those of you who have installed the pulpits, what length fastener would you recommend. I would obviously like to keep the fittings behind the coach house ceiling panels if possible.

Thanks

Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne (#135)
Honolulu

Get longer. Put in with backing plate the ceiling, then fender washer,
lockwasher, nut and acorn or nylock nut for a finished look. after nuts
are in place, trim just long enough to leave thread for acorn nut. I
used dremel tool with parting disk. You guys did read my article on
this right?

kalinowski wrote:

I am purchasing a set of mast pulpits and the guy at Railmakers said
he would throw in the fasteners, but needed to know what length bolts
to include. For those of you who have installed the pulpits, what
length fastener would you recommend. I would obviously like to keep
the fittings behind the coach house ceiling panels if possible.

Thanks

Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne (#135)
Honolulu

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For those of you who don't want acorn nuts showing, use barrel nuts – 1/4-20 available at West Marine for an ungodly amount of $5.00 each.  It means you drill the hole to fit them, not the bolts (I think 5/16th inch) and the bolts only have to be 1″ long or so – measure first.  When putting them in the cleats, either remove the cleat or make the bolts 1-1/2″ long.

If you remove the cleat, and if you don't want to deal with barrel nuts, then get 1-1/2″ long bolts and use a fender washer and nylon insert locknut.  This is the easiest and least expensive way.  Because of the cleats you have 1/2″ behind the overhead to hide nuts and bolts.

Bob

On Sat, Jun 27, 2009 at 5:01 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Get longer.  Put in with backing plate the ceiling, then fender washer, lockwasher, nut and acorn or nylock nut for a finished look.  after nuts are in place, trim just long enough to leave thread for acorn nut.  I used dremel tool with parting disk.  You guys did read my article on this right?

kalinowski wrote:

I am purchasing a set of mast pulpits and the guy at Railmakers said he would throw in the fasteners, but needed to know what length bolts to include. For those of you who have installed the pulpits, what length fastener would you recommend. I would obviously like to keep the fittings behind the coach house ceiling panels if possible.

Thanks

Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne (#135)
Honolulu

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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

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If you use a much longer bolt and cut it off, you get the benefit of being able to do the whole job with one person working from below…. you can hold the blot from turning by grabbing the longer bolt with a pair of vice-grip pliers while you tighten the nut. Also, a nylock nut locks an awful lot like an acorn nut, but is easy to find and often cheaper.

See this page for acorn nuts of different sorts. about 73 cents each in 18-8 from McMaster: http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-steel-acorn-nuts/=2ihyzc

Pete

Robert Fine wrote:

For those of you who don’t want acorn nuts showing, use barrel nuts – 1/4-20 available at West Marine for an ungodly amount of $5.00 each. It means you drill the hole to fit them, not the bolts (I think 5/16th inch) and the bolts only have to be 1″ long or so – measure first. When putting them in the cleats, either remove the cleat or make the bolts 1-1/2″ long.

If you remove the cleat, and if you don’t want to deal with barrel nuts, then get 1-1/2″ long bolts and use a fender washer and nylon insert locknut. This is the easiest and least expensive way. Because of the cleats you have 1/2″ behind the overhead to hide nuts and bolts.

Bob

On Sat, Jun 27, 2009 at 5:01 PM, Pete Dubler < ([email][/email])> wrote:

Get longer. Put in with backing plate the ceiling, then fender washer, lockwasher, nut and acorn or nylock nut for a finished look. after nuts are in place, trim just long enough to leave thread for acorn nut. I used dremel tool with parting disk. You guys did read my article on this right?

kalinowski wrote:

I am purchasing a set of mast pulpits and the guy at Railmakers said he would throw in the fasteners, but needed to know what length bolts to include. For those of you who have installed the pulpits, what length fastener would you recommend. I would obviously like to keep the fittings behind the coach house ceiling panels if possible.

Thanks

Dan Kalinowski
Lady Leanne (#135)
Honolulu

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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Hull #8

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