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Those who paint spars: how much epoxy paint covers both masts and booms (2 coats)? And that stepped bolt through the tangs looks daunting. Is there any way around cutting and replacing it?
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I did mine in the last year. Main, mizzen, spreaders and booms took 3 qt of interlux brightside. I did 2 coats on everything and 3 coats on booms. If time had allowed would like to have done 3 on masts.
Mine had been painted by PO with an unknown paint – so advice from interlux was either go to bare metal and prime if I wanted 2 part epoxy. Or run 120 grit on existing then use single part paint. 2 part epoxy is very finicky on primer – if you paint it on a not compatible previous base it may not take or may have adverse reaction.
I am pleased with the brightsides – at least compared to what I had….Eric Lorentzon
SV Navasana – hull 59
Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 23, 2011, at 4:32 PM, Mizzenmonkey wrote:
Those who paint spars: how much epoxy paint covers both masts and booms (2 coats)? And that stepped bolt through the tangs looks daunting. Is there any way around cutting and replacing it?
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Coming soon to a Blue Water Sailing magazine near you… the full
repainting of Regina Oceani, starting with the spars.Pete
On 4/23/2011 4:38 PM, S V Navasana wrote:
I did mine in the last year. Main, mizzen, spreaders and booms took 3 qt of interlux brightside. I did 2 coats on everything and 3 coats on booms. If time had allowed would like to have done 3 on masts.
Mine had been painted by PO with an unknown paint – so advice from interlux was either go to bare metal and prime if I wanted 2 part epoxy. Or run 120 grit on existing then use single part paint. 2 part epoxy is very finicky on primer – if you paint it on a not compatible previous base it may not take or may have adverse reaction.
I am pleased with the brightsides – at least compared to what I had….Eric Lorentzon
SV Navasana – hull 59
Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 23, 2011, at 4:32 PM, Mizzenmonkey wrote:
Those who paint spars: how much epoxy paint covers both masts and booms (2 coats)? And that stepped bolt through the tangs looks daunting. Is there any way around cutting and replacing it?
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I ended up grinding the head down and then drilling the head down to the
shaft followed by knocking the head off with a punch and hammer. Silly
design…Pete
On 4/23/2011 2:32 PM, Mizzenmonkey wrote:
Those who paint spars: how much epoxy paint covers both masts and booms (2 coats)? And that stepped bolt through the tangs looks daunting. Is there any way around cutting and replacing it?
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If you had to remove the head to get it out, how did they get it in? A compression sleeve has one large hole and one small. What’s under yonder tang?
And I enjoyed stripping Mizzen boom today. Looking forward to etc. How many screws in tangs and cleats snapped off below the head. Just give me a percentage so I know how many more cobalt bits to buy.
PS I may have a line on replacing mast steps. Aluminum and a buck fifty in Little Ferry NJ. Ill know this week if they are bona fide. How have folks built up their steps after shaving a few inches off the mast? Can I just encase some oak in ‘glass?
Adam
On Apr 23, 2011, at 10:12 PM, Pete Dubler wrote:
I ended up grinding the head down and then drilling the head down to the shaft followed by knocking the head off with a punch and hammer. Silly design…
Pete
On 4/23/2011 2:32 PM, Mizzenmonkey wrote:
Those who paint spars: how much epoxy paint covers both masts and booms (2 coats)? And that stepped bolt through the tangs looks daunting. Is there any way around cutting and replacing it?
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that sounds awful. I’m already burning through cobalt bits and I’ve only
stripped the mizzen. Question: Assuming they had to get the stepped bolt
IN, why must it be destroyed to remove it? With a compression sleeve, we
drill one side wider and slip it in over the bolt – ez in, ez out. How are
you filling in the divots? I am using West, but I also have the low-temp
aluminum welding rod used to fix bullet holes in helicopters.-adam
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The sleeve fuses to the bolt. Easy in, 30-years, not-so-easy out.
I used some Muggyweld for many of the holes but will be redoing some
with aluminum threaded rod which is really the safer way to go according
to a few spar builders I contracted. For the dents and divits, I am
using the Alexseal paint system and their filler. Also will be using
some high-build primer.Pete
On 4/25/2011 7:06 AM, Adam Silverstein wrote:
that sounds awful. I’m already burning through cobalt bits and I’ve
only stripped the mizzen. Question: Assuming they had to get the
stepped bolt IN, why must it be destroyed to remove it? With a
compression sleeve, we drill one side wider and slip it in over the
bolt – ez in, ez out. How are you filling in the divots? I am using
West, but I also have the low-temp aluminum welding rod used to fix
bullet holes in helicopters.-adam
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When putting stainless screws/bolts into aluminum, coat the ss
(especially the threads) with LanoCote. I haven’t used the stuff long
enough to know how long it’ll keep the parts from fusing, but I gather
it’s many years. After 2+ years I took out some screws as if they’d only
been in 2 days.Tor
http://www.silverheels.us
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Another product to bed SS fasteners in aluminum is Tef-Gel, probably
no better in this application than LanoCole. I haven’t used the
later. On a previous boat I used Liquid Life Caulk. 10 years later
the fasteners came out with only gentle persuasion (no impact driver)
and no striped heads.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Apr 25, 2011 at 11:23 AM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:When putting stainless screws/bolts into aluminum, coat the ss
(especially the threads) with LanoCote. I haven’t used the stuff long
enough to know how long it’ll keep the parts from fusing, but I gather
it’s many years. After 2+ years I took out some screws as if they’d only
been in 2 days.Tor
http://www.silverheels.us
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Anyone use threadlocker blue as anti-galling coating?
-Adam
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I recall using Lok-Tite (threadlocker) for that purpose years ago, and
then sort of forgot about it. I picked up on LanoCote from an aluminum
boat owner who swore by it. I guess there are any number of products
that can separate dissimilar metals in that application, enough to
prevent them interacting. John’s Tef-Gel sounds like another good one.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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Adam,
If I remember correctly, the Bllue Loctite suff is a pretty strong
adhesive. It might require a little more persuasion to remove the
fasteners, but probably nothing more than a heat gun.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.comOn Mon, Apr 25, 2011 at 2:12 PM, Silverheels wrote:
Quote:I recall using Lok-Tite (threadlocker) for that purpose years ago, and
then sort of forgot about it. I picked up on LanoCote from an aluminum
boat owner who swore by it. I guess there are any number of products
that can separate dissimilar metals in that application, enough to
prevent them interacting. John’s Tef-Gel sounds like another good one.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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I think it was the red, less strong Loctite we used to use. Then there’s
also Never-Seez.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
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