Forums › General Discussion › Fuel Pump for W60

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    • #68675
      cstewart
      Participant

      Does anyone have any experience replacing a fuel pump for a W60?
      I wanted a spare for my trip next month so I asked my diesel guy to just order me one. Then he said it was $422 plus tax, tag and title. I said woah. Is that reasonable? I thought a fuel pump should be $42 , but since it was marine it would be $142. Has anybody bought one lately?
      Thanks, Charlie

    • #79175
      Hull152_Patrick
      Spectator

      I know his has come up before. Try searching the list archive at
      https://pearson424.org.

      -p

      Sent from my Surfboard

      On Jan 29, 2013, at 8:51, cstewart wrote:

      Does anyone have any experience replacing a fuel pump for a W60?
      I wanted a spare for my trip next month so I asked my diesel guy to just order me one. Then he said it was $422 plus tax, tag and title. I said woah. Is that reasonable? I thought a fuel pump should be $42 , but since it was marine it would be $142. Has anybody bought one lately?
      Thanks, Charlie


      "People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose sight of the shore."
      Andre Gide 1869-1951

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      Owners no more...
      Thanks Dawn and Patrick!

    • #79176
      Indulgence
      Participant

      Important to note…which fuel pump…High pressure or low pressure? The low pressure can be replaced with any auto parts store fuel pump…you’ll just need to plumb it in line. I had installed a low pressure pump for my fuel polishing system…it would also serve as an inline back up.

      The high pressure pump is big bucks.

      — On Tue, 1/29/13, Patrick Walters wrote:

      Quote:

      Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

    • #79177
      cstewart
      Participant

      Low pressure. This is the mechanical pump attached to the engine, Westerbeke part #17755. Are you talking about an electric pump?
      Thanks ,
      Charlie

    • #79178
      madsailor
      Moderator

      Yes, leave the old pump in place, bypass it and use an electric pump
      connected to the ignition switch. It should run whenever the key is on. Big
      advantage: after a filter change can prime the engine without a big hassle.

      Bob
      On Jan 29, 2013 4:13 PM, “cstewart” wrote:

      Low pressure. This is the mechanical pump attached to the engine,
      Westerbeke part #17755. Are you talking about an electric pump?
      Thanks ,
      Charlie


      "People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
      sight of the shore."
      Andre Gide 1869-1951

      _______________________________________________
      maillist mailing list

      https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

      _______________________________________________
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      https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

      Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

    • #79179
      RichCarter
      Participant

      You must be talking about the low-pressure lift pump. Put a 12V electric
      fuel pump in series with it. Both have to fail. The electric pump makes it
      easier to bleed too.
      Rich


      Original Message


      Post generated from Pearson424 Forum using Mail2Forum

    • #79180
      cstewart
      Participant

      Thanks everybody for your ideas and wisdom on all the questions I have been asking recently. For the low pressure fuel pump, I have installed an electric diesel pump and plumed it so I can use it or bypass it. The old mechanical pump is still working fine, and this will serve as a backup, and also as a primer when I change filters. I just didn’t want to go to a far-away port with no way to repair the fuel pump, which is the only thing that hasn’t broken yet.

      Regarding the high pressure injector pump that went bad. I have taken it off and sent it to Test Calibration, a specialty shop in Mobile Alabama and they rebuilt it for $583. It had a bad metering valve, bad transfer pump, and all seals and gaskets needed replacing. Glad I didn’t try that at home.

      While the engine was torn down, I replaced all the hoses (including water heater hose) and belts, and sure nuff, like I read in an earlier discussion, I had a vacuum in the line and it ran hot…but I knew what to do.

      I also replaced the throttle cable and with the help of you guys, learned how to get to the blasted inside of the Edson pedestal which is like impossible. I did employ a new trick that I will share. Since the throttle cable goes through the alternator belts, in order to change the belts (on the old W60), you have to remove the throttle cable and kill cable from the engine. I just bought two sets of belts and put a spare set on the cable and zip-tied them back to the bulkhead so that it will be much easier to replace the next ones if one should break.

      Thanks.
      Charlie
      OneEighty
      P424k, #54

    • #79201
      Chuck Ruble
      Participant

      Charlie, good job with the high pressure pump. I’m surprised at how many of these we send out for reconditioning have mechanical issues the owners were not aware of. Mines working but I may send it off this spring while replacing the engine mounts.

      When it goes back on you’ll want to follow the instructions in the shop manual to get the injector timing set correctly.

      If the chain cover plate isn’t off you can set it by ear (or how well it doesn’t start) but I’d bet its still important to take the slack out of the timing chain before you install it.

      Don’t try to wedge something behind the governor housing to get it to twist to adjust it.

      Chuck

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