Forums › General Discussion › Fuel Pump for W60
- This topic has 7 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 13 years, 8 months ago by
Chuck Ruble.
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January 29, 2013 at 2:51 pm #68675
cstewart
ParticipantDoes anyone have any experience replacing a fuel pump for a W60?
I wanted a spare for my trip next month so I asked my diesel guy to just order me one. Then he said it was $422 plus tax, tag and title. I said woah. Is that reasonable? I thought a fuel pump should be $42 , but since it was marine it would be $142. Has anybody bought one lately?
Thanks, Charlie -
January 29, 2013 at 3:01 pm #79175
Hull152_Patrick
SpectatorI know his has come up before. Try searching the list archive at
https://pearson424.org.-p
Sent from my Surfboard
On Jan 29, 2013, at 8:51, cstewart wrote:
Does anyone have any experience replacing a fuel pump for a W60?
I wanted a spare for my trip next month so I asked my diesel guy to just order me one. Then he said it was $422 plus tax, tag and title. I said woah. Is that reasonable? I thought a fuel pump should be $42 , but since it was marine it would be $142. Has anybody bought one lately?
Thanks, Charlie
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Owners no more...
Thanks Dawn and Patrick! -
January 29, 2013 at 3:13 pm #79176
Indulgence
ParticipantImportant to note…which fuel pump…High pressure or low pressure? The low pressure can be replaced with any auto parts store fuel pump…you’ll just need to plumb it in line. I had installed a low pressure pump for my fuel polishing system…it would also serve as an inline back up.
The high pressure pump is big bucks.
— On Tue, 1/29/13, Patrick Walters wrote:
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January 29, 2013 at 4:13 pm #79177
cstewart
ParticipantLow pressure. This is the mechanical pump attached to the engine, Westerbeke part #17755. Are you talking about an electric pump?
Thanks ,
Charlie -
January 29, 2013 at 5:46 pm #79178
madsailor
ModeratorYes, leave the old pump in place, bypass it and use an electric pump
connected to the ignition switch. It should run whenever the key is on. Big
advantage: after a filter change can prime the engine without a big hassle.Bob
On Jan 29, 2013 4:13 PM, “cstewart” wrote:Low pressure. This is the mechanical pump attached to the engine,
Westerbeke part #17755. Are you talking about an electric pump?
Thanks ,
Charlie
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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January 29, 2013 at 11:58 pm #79179
RichCarterParticipantYou must be talking about the low-pressure lift pump. Put a 12V electric
fuel pump in series with it. Both have to fail. The electric pump makes it
easier to bleed too.
Rich
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January 31, 2013 at 1:00 am #79180
cstewart
ParticipantThanks everybody for your ideas and wisdom on all the questions I have been asking recently. For the low pressure fuel pump, I have installed an electric diesel pump and plumed it so I can use it or bypass it. The old mechanical pump is still working fine, and this will serve as a backup, and also as a primer when I change filters. I just didn’t want to go to a far-away port with no way to repair the fuel pump, which is the only thing that hasn’t broken yet.
Regarding the high pressure injector pump that went bad. I have taken it off and sent it to Test Calibration, a specialty shop in Mobile Alabama and they rebuilt it for $583. It had a bad metering valve, bad transfer pump, and all seals and gaskets needed replacing. Glad I didn’t try that at home.
While the engine was torn down, I replaced all the hoses (including water heater hose) and belts, and sure nuff, like I read in an earlier discussion, I had a vacuum in the line and it ran hot…but I knew what to do.
I also replaced the throttle cable and with the help of you guys, learned how to get to the blasted inside of the Edson pedestal which is like impossible. I did employ a new trick that I will share. Since the throttle cable goes through the alternator belts, in order to change the belts (on the old W60), you have to remove the throttle cable and kill cable from the engine. I just bought two sets of belts and put a spare set on the cable and zip-tied them back to the bulkhead so that it will be much easier to replace the next ones if one should break.
Thanks.
Charlie
OneEighty
P424k, #54 -
February 3, 2013 at 12:46 pm #79201
Chuck Ruble
ParticipantCharlie, good job with the high pressure pump. I’m surprised at how many of these we send out for reconditioning have mechanical issues the owners were not aware of. Mines working but I may send it off this spring while replacing the engine mounts.
When it goes back on you’ll want to follow the instructions in the shop manual to get the injector timing set correctly.
If the chain cover plate isn’t off you can set it by ear (or how well it doesn’t start) but I’d bet its still important to take the slack out of the timing chain before you install it.
Don’t try to wedge something behind the governor housing to get it to twist to adjust it.
Chuck
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