I’ve used Rope Caulk from Lowes or Home Depot after Tor identified it.
Since then I’ve only used the Butyl tape from the site in your port. It’s
not a major expense and it helps support a really useful website.
13 years ago I replaced that Bomar hatch with a Lewmar size 40 Ocean Hatch,
which was a drop-in replacement (other than the screw holes and a little
sanding of frame corners). I can’t believe how expensive those hatches are
now even at the Defender price.

Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s Blog

On Mon, Jul 14, 2014 at 3:18 PM, re.carter— via maillist <
> wrote:

I’m replacing the small opening deck hatch over the galley. The original
Bomar is getting old and needs replacement. I found what looks like an
ideal replacement at defender on clearance and ordered one today. It
should arrive tomorrow or Wednesday.
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|619045|1970800&id=2508857

I doubt that the screw holes will match, but I think the frame size makes
this otherwise a drop-in. I’ll let folks know after I complete the task.

I need to use a bedding compound to seal the hatch. Pearson used silicone
sealant which is difficult to remove from the deck. I am considering butyl
tape but wonder if the seam that I’ll need will leak. I think not, but
figured that I’d ask those who use it.

I found a source for tape but it’s a bit expensive and I’ll have to wait
for the shipment to arrive. Does anyone have a good source for similar?
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

Rich

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Rich,
We were going to replace our deck hatches with newer Bomar also, even
bought a $1000.00 worth similar to what your buying but when I got them
next to the old ones I thought these old ones are of such a higher quality
they deserve a thorough rebuild. Brought back three of the other hatches,
kept the little guy 9 1/2″ above the aft cabin.

I plan on using Dow Corning 795. Great stuff! I’ve used many times to
replace modern fixed ports where the bedding stays exposed to the sun.
Black, white, grey. I’ll use it to rebed the new acrylic in my old hatches
and I’ll use it to bed the hatch to the deck. I can’t tell you enough how
good a product this is and it’s awesome to work with. It comes out of the
tube easily with little or no mess and it’s easily worked with fingers,
putty knives, etc. It is a silicone based product so good masking is
crucial to a professional job.

I also really like working with butyl rubber for your application but I’d
want a fatter roll of butyl to work with. New Found Metals in Washington I
believe sell rolls of 1/2″ tube shape. I used it to install their SS
opening ports. The owner of the boat was able to order it from them. Not
sure of cost or length but it too was awesome to work with. Clean and
simple.
Have fun,
Ken

On Mon, Jul 14, 2014 at 3:18 PM, re.carter— via maillist <
> wrote:

I’m replacing the small opening deck hatch over the galley. The original
Bomar is getting old and needs replacement. I found what looks like an
ideal replacement at defender on clearance and ordered one today. It
should arrive tomorrow or Wednesday.
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|619045|1970800&id=2508857

I doubt that the screw holes will match, but I think the frame size makes
this otherwise a drop-in. I’ll let folks know after I complete the task.

I need to use a bedding compound to seal the hatch. Pearson used silicone
sealant which is difficult to remove from the deck. I am considering butyl
tape but wonder if the seam that I’ll need will leak. I think not, but
figured that I’d ask those who use it.

I found a source for tape but it’s a bit expensive and I’ll have to wait
for the shipment to arrive. Does anyone have a good source for similar?
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

Rich

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The thick black round butyl that New Found Metals sells for bedding
their ports is excellent. The key is in the installation technique they
suggest which involves wrapping the port in the tape before sliding in
the hole and packing the tape in firmly with more added as needed.

Pete

On 7/14/2014 3:49 PM, John Stevenson via maillist wrote:

I’ve used Rope Caulk from Lowes or Home Depot after Tor identified it.
Since then I’ve only used the Butyl tape from the site in your port. It’s
not a major expense and it helps support a really useful website.
13 years ago I replaced that Bomar hatch with a Lewmar size 40 Ocean Hatch,
which was a drop-in replacement (other than the screw holes and a little
sanding of frame corners). I can’t believe how expensive those hatches are
now even at the Defender price.

Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s Blog

On Mon, Jul 14, 2014 at 3:18 PM, re.carter— via maillist <
> wrote:

I’m replacing the small opening deck hatch over the galley. The original
Bomar is getting old and needs replacement. I found what looks like an
ideal replacement at defender on clearance and ordered one today. It
should arrive tomorrow or Wednesday.
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|619045|1970800&id=2508857

I doubt that the screw holes will match, but I think the frame size makes
this otherwise a drop-in. I’ll let folks know after I complete the task.

I need to use a bedding compound to seal the hatch. Pearson used silicone
sealant which is difficult to remove from the deck. I am considering butyl
tape but wonder if the seam that I’ll need will leak. I think not, but
figured that I’d ask those who use it.

I found a source for tape but it’s a bit expensive and I’ll have to wait
for the shipment to arrive. Does anyone have a good source for similar?
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

Rich

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We replaced all the overhead hatches on Bel Esprit this year.  I bought thmn on eBay for a third of the price and they were brand new.

Elaine Patton

On Monday, July 14, 2014 3:59 PM, Ken Page via maillist wrote:

Rich,
We were going to replace our deck hatches with newer Bomar also, even
bought a $1000.00 worth similar to what your buying but when I got them
next to the old ones I thought these old ones are of such a higher quality
they deserve a thorough rebuild. Brought back three of the other hatches,
kept the little guy 9 1/2″ above the aft cabin.

I plan on using Dow Corning 795. Great stuff! I’ve used many times to
replace modern fixed ports where the bedding stays exposed to the sun.
Black, white, grey. I’ll use it to rebed the new acrylic in my old hatches
and I’ll use it to bed the hatch to the deck. I can’t tell you enough how
good a product this is and it’s awesome to work with. It comes out of the
tube easily with little or no mess and it’s easily worked with fingers,
putty knives, etc. It is a silicone based product so good masking is
crucial to a professional job.

I also really like working with butyl rubber for your application but I’d
want a fatter roll of butyl to work with. New Found Metals in Washington I
believe sell rolls of 1/2″ tube shape. I used it to install their SS
opening ports. The owner of the boat was able to order it from them. Not
sure of cost or length but it too was awesome to work with. Clean and
simple.
Have fun,
Ken

On Mon, Jul 14, 2014 at 3:18 PM, re.carter— via maillist <
> wrote:

I’m replacing the small opening deck hatch over the galley.  The original
Bomar is getting old and needs replacement.  I found what looks like an
ideal replacement at defender on clearance and ordered one today.  It
should arrive tomorrow or Wednesday.
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|619045|1970800&id=2508857

I doubt that the screw holes will match, but I think the frame size makes
this otherwise a drop-in.  I’ll let folks know after I complete the task.

I need to use a bedding compound to seal the hatch.  Pearson used silicone
sealant which is difficult to remove from the deck.  I am considering butyl
tape but wonder if the seam that I’ll need will leak.  I think not, but
figured that I’d ask those who use it.

I found a source for tape but it’s a bit expensive and I’ll have to wait
for the shipment to arrive.  Does anyone have a good source for similar?
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape

Rich

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I’m still a rope caulk fan for most applications above
the waterline, but that butyl looks very good and I’ve
heard good comments about it in general. The one place
I used rope caulk that regret was re-bedding the
Plexiglas panels in my (original) deck hatches. Rope
caulk is not adhesive enough or expansive enough and
anyway it doesn’t stand up well to direct sunlight &
weather. Those seams leak now a little from time to
time and I have to kind of smush in a little more fresh
rope caulk to re-seal it. Only takes a few minutes, but
I’m sure there are better products for that
application. For bedding the hatch frames, however, I
would feel confident using rope caulk. Of course, a lot
of people might feel better using a more “advanced”
product there which is fine. Personally, though, I
avoid using silicone on my boat because it’s so awkward
to remove later on.

Bottom line, I’d say go with the butyl tape.

Tor

Ken, I’m sure you are right about Dow Corning 795. It
is one of a hundred available goops I have yet to try.
Regarding silicone spray, however, I just encountered a
potentially useful application, i.e., coating rubber
parts inside pumps, or any rubber in general that might
benefit from a protective sealant. Just sayin’.

Tor

Silicone spray has uses on a boat. Silicon sealant does not except putting
a dab on the ends of the cotter pins on the rigging fittings.

Silicone sealant is a guarantee that there will be not only a leak but a
leak that actually pumps water through whatever it’s sealing. Silicone is
a compressive seal and almost never used that way. There are many better
and easier to use sealants. Silicone used casually is a disaster.

Bob

On Mon, Jul 14, 2014 at 7:52 PM, Silverheels via maillist <
> wrote:

All my through hulls (1978) were something like 5200. Not sure what. Most
old boats I worked on are the same stuff. I suspect your through hulls
were rebedded at some point.

795 is not pure silicone – and it’s not a good bedding compound for
anything except plastics and glass – I use it for the inserts for hatches
and windows. It is a glazing compound used for buildings and is not for
bedding anything to the deck or below the water.

Spray silicone will cause all sorts of problems with any kind of finish,
not just varnish. Teflon spray is a much better substitute. Even graphite
spray is better.

Pure silicone will form capillary tubes – it seals for a bit and then will
pull from the substrate and actually pump water. It’s a disaster because
it’s so hard to remove completely requiring either mechanical removal or
the use of xylene, a very nasty chemical. There is a proper way to use
silicone but almost no one ever does it because it takes two days to do it
properly. It will form a proper compressive seal, but not a general just
bolt it on and go seal like 5200 or even 4000.

Ken, you’re welcome to use whatever you want. I’m just saying that
silicone will cause more grief than it’s worth. There are better sealants,
adhesives, and caulks for marine use.

Bob

On Mon, Jul 14, 2014 at 8:43 PM, Page Two via maillist <
> wrote:

Bob, why then have all the through hulls of my boat and all the hatches
on the deck of my boat which were bedded in state of the art silicone of
the day 1980 never leak? 795 is a silicone ‘based’ product. There have been
some improvements. Like I said…I really hate pure silicone my previous
owner has left gobs of it (Pearson too) for me to remove.
I mention spray silicone from a past nightmare of trying to varnish in
the vicinity of someone using it. One single molecule of the shit makes
fish eyes in any finish.

---

Ken and Vicky # 91……Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book.

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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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Pearson bedded everything with silicon, one of the reasons the main cabin companion-way typically leaks. Once it gets on the surface of something it’s almost impossible to remove and nothing seems to stick to it; stuff should be outlawed. My coach trim (eyebrows) is bedded with the stuff. I’ve been chasing leaks in the cabin sides for almost 30 years. If your main cabin companion-way leaks in the rain, consider rebuilding it before the deck rot gets too bad.
http://www.richardcarter.net/boat/deckRot/

Rich

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But silicone spray is, I understand, an excellent
lubricant/sealant/protection for rubber. I’ve been
using Dow 111 (a grease-like gel, not a spray) on
rubber parts for years, originally recommended by an
engineer at Groco when I called and asked with what to
lubricate the rubber cores in their thru-hulls.
O-rings, gaskets, seals, rubber valves, pump
diaphragms, and so on all get a film coating whenever I
have them in hand. So far, so good. And my fingers have
lasted to date, as well. Good stuff.

Tor

Silkaflex (which one) or Lifecaulk?
And why??
Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 14, 2014, at 9:11 PM, Robert Fine via maillist wrote:

All my through hulls (1978) were something like 5200. Not sure what. Most
old boats I worked on are the same stuff. I suspect your through hulls
were rebedded at some point.

795 is not pure silicone – and it’s not a good bedding compound for
anything except plastics and glass – I use it for the inserts for hatches
and windows. It is a glazing compound used for buildings and is not for
bedding anything to the deck or below the water.

Spray silicone will cause all sorts of problems with any kind of finish,
not just varnish. Teflon spray is a much better substitute. Even graphite
spray is better.

Pure silicone will form capillary tubes – it seals for a bit and then will
pull from the substrate and actually pump water. It’s a disaster because
it’s so hard to remove completely requiring either mechanical removal or
the use of xylene, a very nasty chemical. There is a proper way to use
silicone but almost no one ever does it because it takes two days to do it
properly. It will form a proper compressive seal, but not a general just
bolt it on and go seal like 5200 or even 4000.

Ken, you’re welcome to use whatever you want. I’m just saying that
silicone will cause more grief than it’s worth. There are better sealants,
adhesives, and caulks for marine use.

Bob

On Mon, Jul 14, 2014 at 8:43 PM, Page Two via maillist <
> wrote:

Bob, why then have all the through hulls of my boat and all the hatches
on the deck of my boat which were bedded in state of the art silicone of
the day 1980 never leak? 795 is a silicone ‘based’ product. There have been
some improvements. Like I said…I really hate pure silicone my previous
owner has left gobs of it (Pearson too) for me to remove.
I mention spray silicone from a past nightmare of trying to varnish in
the vicinity of someone using it. One single molecule of the shit makes
fish eyes in any finish.

---

Ken and Vicky # 91……Writing a New Chapter Page by Page in an Old Book.

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Bob Fine
s/v Pelican
Pearson 424 Hull #8
http://thesailinglife.blogspot.com
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And yet another consideration for these products is
shelf life. I’ve had many tubes of 5200 and 4200 cure
in their tubes, even when never opened. Perhaps
refrigerating them would help? (I so know that Bob will
know this.) Also, I don’t buy any goops in long gun
tubes unless I’m planning a job big enough to use it
all at once. I’ve thrown away a lot of half-tubes of
the gun type over the years, and had to store them
meanwhile. I’d rather pay more for several small
toothpaste-type tubes with caps.

Oh, the trials and tribulations…

Tor

Vaseline has its uses on board, Ken, but my
understanding is that any petroleum product (including
Vaseline petroleum jelly) will degrade rubber over
time. Best to keep it off your rubber parts entirely.
Silicone, on the other hand, which is the main
ingredient in Dow 111, will not harm rubber.

Tor

Tor,
Yea, I’m aware of Vaselines limitations, I used it mostly on the main sail
slides and bronze hanks pretty regularly and no doubt used it where I
shouldn’t have but hell, I’m still alive and all three of my past wooden
boats are still floating.

Ken

On Wed, Jul 16, 2014 at 7:11 PM, Silverheels via maillist <
> wrote:

Still alive & floating is good, Ken. I find Vaseline works well if only temporarily to lubricate snaps on the boat. Bit by bit I discover, which is to say am shown by other sailors, better alternatives for various applications. One of my favorites is dry graphite on the sail tracks, main and mizzen. I believe Rich mentioned it the other day. Just before each long passage I go aloft – the mizzen mast in a bosun’s chair, the main via the stirrup steps – and work my way down spraying a line of the stuff directly onto the masts’ inset sail car tracks. Amazing what a difference it makes!

Tor

http://www.silverheels.us

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Forgot the illustration.

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