Forums › General Discussion › backing plates

  • This topic has 5 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 12 years ago by Anonymous.
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    • #68995
      Anonymous

      While taking the back cleats off for painting I noticed the variety of
      backing plates on the pushpit. Two had very dried out quarter inch
      plywood (one that crumbled into small pieces when removed), one had
      large washers and three had a piece of fiberglass cutouts about an
      eighth inch thick. All have been removed. My question for the group is
      what is the favored material to make new backing plates? I have always
      leaned toward aluminum plates but the ones backing up the cleats were
      showing a lot of corrosion and then there is the concern of dissimilar
      metals with SS bolts and the plate. The boatyard is advising fiberglass
      plates similar to the ones that were removed. I am thinking they were
      original used by Pearson.

      Thanks.
      Dale
      Hiflite

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    • #81565
      Anonymous

      I wouldn’t worry too much about dissimilar metals, unless you use really
      thick plates and tap the machine screws into the plates. Even then a
      little Tef-Gel will keep them from seizing. Think of all the SS fasteners
      on your mast and boom.
      I think the cleats are aluminum.

      Regards,
      John Stevenson
      http://www.svsarah.com
      Sarah’s Blog

      On Fri, Oct 3, 2014 at 12:41 PM, Dale L via maillist <
      > wrote:

      While taking the back cleats off for painting I noticed the variety of
      backing plates on the pushpit. Two had very dried out quarter inch plywood
      (one that crumbled into small pieces when removed), one had large washers
      and three had a piece of fiberglass cutouts about an eighth inch thick.
      All have been removed. My question for the group is what is the favored
      material to make new backing plates? I have always leaned toward aluminum
      plates but the ones backing up the cleats were showing a lot of corrosion
      and then there is the concern of dissimilar metals with SS bolts and the
      plate. The boatyard is advising fiberglass plates similar to the ones that
      were removed. I am thinking they were original used by Pearson.

      Thanks.
      Dale
      Hiflite

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      maillist mailing list

      https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

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    • #81567
      Anonymous

      Fiberglass cutouts or aluminum plate make excellent backing
      plates. Plywood (and large washers) will serve for decades if you
      bed the fitting on deck to keep water out. All will accomplish
      the same thing.

      Tor


      Silverheels, P-424 #17
      http://www.silverheels.us


      Quote:

      Original Message


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    • #81568
      Anonymous

      When I re-installed all my stanchion bases there were the fiberglass
      backing plates similar to what you mention. I thought they had done a fine
      job all those years so I cleaned them up and put them back in. I saw no
      need for the added expense of stainless or aluminum plates.
      Ken

      On Fri, Oct 3, 2014 at 12:41 PM, Dale L via maillist <
      > wrote:

      While taking the back cleats off for painting I noticed the variety of
      backing plates on the pushpit. Two had very dried out quarter inch plywood
      (one that crumbled into small pieces when removed), one had large washers
      and three had a piece of fiberglass cutouts about an eighth inch thick.
      All have been removed. My question for the group is what is the favored
      material to make new backing plates? I have always leaned toward aluminum
      plates but the ones backing up the cleats were showing a lot of corrosion
      and then there is the concern of dissimilar metals with SS bolts and the
      plate. The boatyard is advising fiberglass plates similar to the ones that
      were removed. I am thinking they were original used by Pearson.

      Thanks.
      Dale
      Hiflite

      _______________________________________________
      maillist mailing list

      https://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org

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    • #81570
      cstewart
      Participant

      When I rebedded my stanchions two years ago, I found the original fiberglass baking plates were bent and had lost their shape. One was cracked. I had new aluminum 1/4″ plates made the same size as the originals and the guy only charged me $10 to cut about 6 of them. I drilled them myself to save his billing time. However when I started tightening the bolts, it started warping the deck. The core had been compromised.
      I then did the recommended deck fix; drill out the holes, dig out the rotted core, vacuum it all clean, dry it, fill it with epoxy, then drill new holes.
      Not nairy a drop leaks from those stanchions now. It actually gave me some new storage space behind the shower and nav table that I couldn’t previously use because it was so wet. Now I have 4 more to do up forward and I just can’t seem to get around to it. I know they are leaking, though.

    • #81571
      Anonymous

      I did each side of the boat at one time, but within a few weeks. Same job,
      had to repair the core and only one fiberglass pad had been distorted, not
      that much so I used them all again. Maybe you’ll find as I did that the
      forward bases were not half as bad as the 4 aft. The two in the little
      cabinet near the chain plates were the worst to get at for me, the
      contortion level was very high if I remember correctly. At present and at
      the dock, I boast a completely dry boat, the bilges are dusty. I have no
      doubt the chain locker forward and the mid ship hatch will be needing
      attention once we get out sailing and cruising.

      Ken

      On Sun, Oct 5, 2014 at 9:52 PM, cstewart via maillist <
      > wrote:

      When I rebedded my stanchions two years ago, I found the original
      fiberglass baking plates were bent and had lost their shape. One was
      cracked. I had new aluminum 1/4″ plates made the same size as the originals
      and the guy only charged me $10 to cut about 6 of them. I drilled them
      myself to save his billing time. However when I started tightening the
      bolts, it started warping the deck. The core had been compromised.
      I then did the recommended deck fix; drill out the holes, dig out the
      rotted core, vacuum it all clean, dry it, fill it with epoxy, then drill
      new holes.
      Not nairy a drop leaks from those stanchions now. It actually gave me
      some new storage space behind the shower and nav table that I couldn’t
      previously use because it was so wet. Now I have 4 more to do up forward
      and I just can’t seem to get around to it. I know they are leaking, though.


      "People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
      sight of the shore."
      Andre Gide 1869-1951

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