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While taking the back cleats off for painting I noticed the variety of
backing plates on the pushpit. Two had very dried out quarter inch
plywood (one that crumbled into small pieces when removed), one had
large washers and three had a piece of fiberglass cutouts about an
eighth inch thick. All have been removed. My question for the group is
what is the favored material to make new backing plates? I have always
leaned toward aluminum plates but the ones backing up the cleats were
showing a lot of corrosion and then there is the concern of dissimilar
metals with SS bolts and the plate. The boatyard is advising fiberglass
plates similar to the ones that were removed. I am thinking they were
original used by Pearson.Thanks.
Dale
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I wouldn’t worry too much about dissimilar metals, unless you use really
thick plates and tap the machine screws into the plates. Even then a
little Tef-Gel will keep them from seizing. Think of all the SS fasteners
on your mast and boom.
I think the cleats are aluminum.Regards,
John Stevenson
http://www.svsarah.com
Sarah’s BlogOn Fri, Oct 3, 2014 at 12:41 PM, Dale L via maillist <
> wrote:While taking the back cleats off for painting I noticed the variety of
backing plates on the pushpit. Two had very dried out quarter inch plywood
(one that crumbled into small pieces when removed), one had large washers
and three had a piece of fiberglass cutouts about an eighth inch thick.
All have been removed. My question for the group is what is the favored
material to make new backing plates? I have always leaned toward aluminum
plates but the ones backing up the cleats were showing a lot of corrosion
and then there is the concern of dissimilar metals with SS bolts and the
plate. The boatyard is advising fiberglass plates similar to the ones that
were removed. I am thinking they were original used by Pearson.Thanks.
Dale
Hiflite_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
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Fiberglass cutouts or aluminum plate make excellent backing
plates. Plywood (and large washers) will serve for decades if you
bed the fitting on deck to keep water out. All will accomplish
the same thing.Tor
Silverheels, P-424 #17
http://www.silverheels.us
Quote:
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When I re-installed all my stanchion bases there were the fiberglass
backing plates similar to what you mention. I thought they had done a fine
job all those years so I cleaned them up and put them back in. I saw no
need for the added expense of stainless or aluminum plates.
KenOn Fri, Oct 3, 2014 at 12:41 PM, Dale L via maillist <
> wrote:While taking the back cleats off for painting I noticed the variety of
backing plates on the pushpit. Two had very dried out quarter inch plywood
(one that crumbled into small pieces when removed), one had large washers
and three had a piece of fiberglass cutouts about an eighth inch thick.
All have been removed. My question for the group is what is the favored
material to make new backing plates? I have always leaned toward aluminum
plates but the ones backing up the cleats were showing a lot of corrosion
and then there is the concern of dissimilar metals with SS bolts and the
plate. The boatyard is advising fiberglass plates similar to the ones that
were removed. I am thinking they were original used by Pearson.Thanks.
Dale
Hiflite_______________________________________________
maillist mailing listhttps://pearson424.org/mailman/listinfo/maillist_pearson424.org
_______________________________________________
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When I rebedded my stanchions two years ago, I found the original fiberglass baking plates were bent and had lost their shape. One was cracked. I had new aluminum 1/4″ plates made the same size as the originals and the guy only charged me $10 to cut about 6 of them. I drilled them myself to save his billing time. However when I started tightening the bolts, it started warping the deck. The core had been compromised.
I then did the recommended deck fix; drill out the holes, dig out the rotted core, vacuum it all clean, dry it, fill it with epoxy, then drill new holes.
Not nairy a drop leaks from those stanchions now. It actually gave me some new storage space behind the shower and nav table that I couldn’t previously use because it was so wet. Now I have 4 more to do up forward and I just can’t seem to get around to it. I know they are leaking, though. -
I did each side of the boat at one time, but within a few weeks. Same job,
had to repair the core and only one fiberglass pad had been distorted, not
that much so I used them all again. Maybe you’ll find as I did that the
forward bases were not half as bad as the 4 aft. The two in the little
cabinet near the chain plates were the worst to get at for me, the
contortion level was very high if I remember correctly. At present and at
the dock, I boast a completely dry boat, the bilges are dusty. I have no
doubt the chain locker forward and the mid ship hatch will be needing
attention once we get out sailing and cruising.Ken
On Sun, Oct 5, 2014 at 9:52 PM, cstewart via maillist <
> wrote:When I rebedded my stanchions two years ago, I found the original
fiberglass baking plates were bent and had lost their shape. One was
cracked. I had new aluminum 1/4″ plates made the same size as the originals
and the guy only charged me $10 to cut about 6 of them. I drilled them
myself to save his billing time. However when I started tightening the
bolts, it started warping the deck. The core had been compromised.
I then did the recommended deck fix; drill out the holes, dig out the
rotted core, vacuum it all clean, dry it, fill it with epoxy, then drill
new holes.
Not nairy a drop leaks from those stanchions now. It actually gave me
some new storage space behind the shower and nav table that I couldn’t
previously use because it was so wet. Now I have 4 more to do up forward
and I just can’t seem to get around to it. I know they are leaking, though.
"People cannot discover new lands until they have the courage to lose
sight of the shore."
Andre Gide 1869-1951_______________________________________________
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